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Motor ship "Valery Bryusov": history, photos, modern realities. I worked on the ship "Bryusov"

"Valery Bryusov" is a three-deck passenger ship with a rich past, which has already served its time as a floating craft. It was once considered one of the most comfortable in Russia and carried tourists, including foreign ones, on cruises. Then it became a hotel and restaurant, as well as the world's first public platform for Moscow residents and city guests. But now the ship has left the capital and will be moored at the port of the city of Kimry. We will tell you about the history and past of this cruise ship below.

Building a ship

"Valery Bryusov" is a motor ship created by the Austrians. His homeland is the city of Korneuburg, at the shipyard of which he saw the light. The ship was built in 1985 and sold to the Moscow River Shipping Company. True, there is some information that all these five were received as a “load” for other orders. After all, this project was planned back in the Soviet Union, and there were slightly different economic calculations. Initially, the ship was intended for tourist and cruise purposes. They named it in honor of the famous Russian poet Valery Bryusov. In those years, the ship was one of the highest quality and was built at a famous Austrian shipyard that specialized in such ships.

Project Q-065: what is it?

This was the name of the plan to build similar cruise ships. They were created in 1984-1986 in Austria specifically for Russian shipping companies. A total of five were built. They served the Moscow, Ob-Irtysh and Lena shipping companies. These are “Sergey Yesenin”, “Alexander Blok”, “Demyan Bedny”, “Mikhail Svetlov” and the motor ship “Valery Bryusov”. The ships of this project were the property of the Moscow and Lena tourist fleets. The project at that time was considered ultra-modern and was intended to serve the so-called “blue ring”.

"Valery Bryusov" during cruise operation: description of the vessel

This ship, like all five of its brothers, can accommodate one hundred and eighty people. It was intended for inland river cruises. On its decks there were cabins designed for one, two and four people. Luxury rooms were also provided. All cabins had showers, toilets and sinks, as well as radio points. The suites had sofas, as well as refrigerators and televisions. "Valery Bryusov" is a motor ship, the equipment of which also included the provision of various services on board. Passengers had at their disposal: an ironing room, a cinema, a sauna, a dance floor, a bar and a restaurant for 80 people. The ship also had a salon with panoramic windows.

The ship was launched in 1985. Its length is 90 meters, width - 15. It can reach speeds of up to 22 km per hour, and its displacement was 1342 tons. The draft during navigation was a little more than one and a half meters.

"Valery Bryusov" (motor ship): route

The ship operated on tourist lines until 1991, and according to some sources, until 1992. He made walks and also cruises along the route Moscow - St. Petersburg. On this ship you could stroll along the rivers and lakes of the European part of Russia. There was a ship on the Volga, Oka, Neva, Kama, and Don. I walked along Lakes Ladoga, Onega and White. Cruise routes varied - from 1 (pleasure) to 22 days. The program included visits to ancient cities and cultural and historical centers of Russia - Ples, Nizhny Novgorod, Kazan, Murom, St. Petersburg, Rostov-on-Don, Yaroslavl.

But the ship turned out to be economically unprofitable. The elite, handsome motor ship “Valery Bryusov” (photos from 1985-1989 testify to this) consumed too much fuel. Although its size was small and made it possible to travel along rivers, its services were abandoned after a few years. In addition to the financial problems, there were also repair issues. There was a shortage of spare parts of the required type in Russia. Austrian or German ones were in short supply, and replacements could not be found. In the end, it became easier to take the ships out of service. The only vessel of this type that is still used for its intended purpose in the European part of Russia is the Sergei Yesenin.

The ship after “retirement”

Since 1993, the ship was no longer used as a cruise ship. It did not change ownership, but became a floating hotel and restaurant on the Moscow River. His new address was a place not far from the Kremlin, the vernissage and the House of Artists: 10. The motor ship "Valery Bryusov" turned into a landing stage. It is interesting that in order to deliver the ship to the center of Moscow, it was specially prepared for this, and the river level was lowered so that the ship could pass under bridges. For the sake of the latter, the management of the shipping company even had to commit malfeasance. In 1994, all necessary work on connecting communications was completed, and a hotel, restaurant and casino were opened on board. A lot of money and work was invested in this business. But in the 2000s, many hotels were built in the capital and gambling was banned. The hotel became unprofitable, and its comfort standards did not meet modern requirements. In the end, its services were used only by budget tourists and students, and even then less and less. It was closed in 2009, and the restaurant in 2011.

Controversy over reconstruction

When the embankment began to be rebuilt, the ship caused numerous discussions among both architects and the public. There have been proposals to remove it from the river altogether. But since 2014, two companies - Dreamers United and Flacon - decided to make something special out of it. This concept considered the Valery Bryusov, which had outlived its tourist career but was still functional, photographs of which illustrate this article, as a new type of public space. Thematically and architecturally, it had to fit into the new style of the center of Moscow, and also become part of the nearby Muzeon park. This concept was approved by the city authorities and brought to life.

Public space

What was the motor ship "Valery Bryusov" like until recently? lecture hall, place for walking, shopping and training center? A little bit of everything. There were creative studios and a cinema hall, and almost every day various cultural programs were implemented. It can be said that this was the first example in the world of using a ship that is laid up in this way. Boutiques, a hair salon and a health food restaurant were on the main deck. On the lifeboat there are various bureaus, agencies, lecture halls and training centers. Above are workshops, fast food with Greek cuisine, as well as panoramic areas where cultural and festive events were held.

Current state

However, recently it turned out that the capital authorities decided to tow the ship from the Crimean embankment. This decision was made by the court, accusing the ship's owners of violating the Russian Water Code. All tenants of offices and public areas on the ship, according to the prosecutor's claim, which was satisfied, were required to leave its territory by May 27 of this year. Now the ship has given up mooring lines from the Crimean embankment for the first time in many years. This time, in order to conduct it under the bridges of the capital, the wheelhouse was dismantled. The ship was taken to the port of Kimry, where its status as a public space will be restored. But no longer in Moscow. There are some suggestions that the ship could be used again for cruising purposes, with new engines installed and repairs made. After all, this has already happened to ships that were laid up. Well, as they say, wait and see!

Walking along the Crimean embankment and the Muzeon art park, I always looked at the ship “Valery Bryusov” and thought what they would come up with, a restaurant? a hotel? or abandon it altogether, but no, they opened it and there is a lot, a lot of things there, admission is free! When we walked in, it immediately reminded me of something, either the Artplay space on Kurskaya, or the Flacon design factory. It turned out that the project was actually developed by the team of the Flacon factory and the creative workshop “the Dreamers United”. From where I managed to look while my daughter was running around the deck, this is a mini-theater for children under 7 years old “Just a Joke”, they invite you to the performance every Sunday at 10-30, 11-30 and 12-40 “The Story of Nothing” "(cabin 202), language laboratory "MyPeople" for any age, Mams&Paps Art Coffee House with interesting design and drinks for children and adults. They also host concerts and watch movies there. There are designer clothing stores, an atelier, an art gallery... We ran through the cabins almost at a gallop, stopped only in the children's theater - a bright room, bright and beautiful, friendly staff, they told us about the performance, they invited us. And in the Greek cafe “Sito” we pleased with a real Greek salad and “penerli”, or, as we can call them, “boats with meat and cheese”, they are baked before our eyes! The prices are quite affordable - coffee, for example, 100 rubles. In general, those who love olives, oil and Greek sauce can come in. The uppermost deck is open, there is a transparent awning, there is a stage for various events. Wood and metal look great, the views of Moscow are stunning! A beautiful and functional place where you can dress up, eat and drink, watch a movie, learn something and dance. And all this in the fresh air and on the water! Half of the cabins are still in the opening stage, but it’s worth a look.



A week ago, with great fanfare, it was reported about the change in the fate of the ship "Valery Bryusov": "the ship, laid up at the Crimean embankment, is turning into a community of fashionable shops and services, a recreation area on the water and a meeting place for creative groups... Mossy cabins with cribs have been vacated space for showrooms, beauty spots, cafeterias and cultural little places. In addition, there are several luxurious spaces on board for theater, dancing, yoga and fooling around on the Moscow River."
Was it possible to remain indifferent to such information? I didn’t stay, and the next Sunday after the opening we went to see it all with our own eyes.
Looking ahead, I will say that the result of the inspection, to put it mildly, did not quite correspond to the information, however, we were satisfied. However, if you know the story of “Bryusov” and his brothers, which I will also tell you about, then you cannot do without a tinge of sadness...

The first attempt to penetrate was unsuccessful: we arrived too early, the ship was open from 12 o'clock; It would be nice, of course, to find out about this somewhere else besides the gangplank, but alas...
We'll be back in an hour and a half. Now you can come in.

First of all, we go around the decks numbering three. On the tank.

Approximately in the same place, a deck above

Well, I can’t resist filming such a rarity :)

View of the Crimean embankment

Then we move on to studying the “art space”. Hmmm, it seems that the opening (let me remind you, it took place a week earlier) was clearly rushed. The vast majority of the premises are in approximately the same condition as in the photo below, and we are frankly superfluous, being, it seems, the only visitors among the workers and repairmen.
By the way, the girl at the reception (completed and quite decent) when asked directly when all this will open, hesitated and said that probably by August.

There are ready-made premises, like this salon, although they are closed and do not function (shot through a glass door)

Almost the only functioning establishment is this store of gifts and small items.

And in the tween deck (the lowest accessible tier, below the lower deck) they make these handmade lollipops. They should be sold somewhere higher up, but we couldn’t find where exactly. But they gave us a taste: it’s delicious, but it sticks mercilessly to the teeth

And there is also one on “Bryusov”, which is already working and I liked it very much (a separate post about it). And finally, a little about the history of the ship.
"Bryusov" and four of its brothers in the series were built in Austria in 1984-86. This series was one of the last (of those that go on the rivers of Russia today) and the most comfortable: even a sauna is provided. Their fates were different. "Svetlov" and "Demyan Bedny" are still working on the Lena, "Yesenin" - in the Volga basin.
"Alexander Blok", having sailed for only a short time, was laid up on Krasnopresnenskaya embankment and for 24 years turned into a floating hotel, and then a restaurant with a casino; however, then and now again in service. In about the same way as “Blok” (restaurant, hotel, casino, something else), “Bryusov” also existed since 1993.
Here he is seen through the window of a branch of the Tretyakov Gallery behind the inscription "Karaoke"

Now, instead of karaoke and a restaurant, there will be a public art space for hipsters. Well, it's probably better this way.
And yet, one cannot do without this song in the story about the fate of “Bryusov”...

Our correspondent looked into the fate of the ship, which they now want to remove from the Crimean embankment

Photo: Mikhail FROLOV

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Why did I get involved and call ministers and various high-ranking figures? Well, the ship is being removed from Moscow. Business. We rarely walk on water. More on sidewalks.

But they explained it to me. The main problem is the date of birth.

When did he appear? In eighty-four, five, six? Well, it's fate. Bad. Everything that appeared at this time turned out to be of no use to anyone.

So said the chairman of the board of the Moscow Club of Fleet History, Konstantin Strelbitsky.

It was not about me, but about “Valery Bryusov”.

And the motor ship "Valery Bryusov" has a month left to live. The famous art cluster operating in Muzeon did not have a water use agreement. And now it will be taken to the ship graveyard, where it will be finely grated into needles.

OFFICIAL CRIME OF MINISTER BAGROV

Of course, it wasn't meant to be a failed ship. In 1985, "Bryusov" appeared with us to become the pride of our fleet, one of the best domestic ships.

The ship was acquired under the legendary Minister of River Fleet of the RSFSR Leonid Bagrov.

We were faced with the task of renewing the fleet,” the ex-minister told Komsomolskaya Pravda. - The old wooden ships were out of order and, due to the wind-wave regime, could not pass through the reservoirs: if the ship rocks, what will remain? We ordered sixty vessels from high-class Austrian shipyards. They wanted the basin of each river - Lena, Yenisei, Ob, Irtysh, Kama - to have at least one comfortable motor ship.

All sixty were high quality. And four are special. Created according to the ultra-modern Q-65 project, they were purchased during the last government procurement to equip the “blue ring”. Among them was “Bryusov”.

The former minister admitted to Komsomolskaya Pravda how he committed an official crime for the sake of the ship. The tall ship did not pass under the bridge. Therefore, the water level in the Moscow River had to be lowered.

I personally dealt with this matter. It was illegal, we did it at night, when water flow was minimal, we lowered the level by 80 centimeters, this was enough for “Bryusov” to pass,” Bagrov recalls.

“Stunning”, “handsome”, “they don’t make people like that now,” - this is how Bagrov recalls “Valery Bryusov”. The ship had everything: a spacious mess hall, a gigantic restaurant, a modern cinema and concert hall, excellent soundproofing of the cabins.

Of all the cool bells and whistles in later life, only soundproofing was useful to Bryusov.

“HE WILL NEVER GO ON THE RIVER PATHS”

“It’s so understandable, but a little sad.” This is how Leonid Agutin sang. True, I didn’t see him in “Bryusov”. The group “Na-na” hung out there more. The ship was permanently laid up with a humiliating “Casino” crown above the deck and a brothel inside.

Once upon a time, it was possible to rent accommodation on a ship quite inexpensively, and many students took advantage of this opportunity. Fortunately, what was happening in the neighboring cabins could not be heard. Because (see above) there was soundproofing.

As assigned, “Bryusov” worked very, very little. Why?

Some experts criticized the design of the ship, saying that the ship was built for small rivers, such as the Oka, but in practice it turned out that the ship had more draft than expected.

But, according to the head of the department of shipbuilding and repair of the Moscow State Academy of Water Transport Vasily Amelin, all this has nothing to do with the truth.

Don't look for flaws in the design. There is none of them. Look for problems in the economy,” Amelin said.

The elite beauty “Bryusov” turned out to be economically unprofitable. High fuel consumption and at the same time a little more than a hundred passenger seats:.

So “Bryusov” and his brother “Alexander Blok” were laid up. “Blok” turned into a branch of the international trade center; Bryusov was rented in 1993 by a Korean company that was engaged in receiving Korean tourists.

FROM BROTHEL TO ART SPACE

A couple of years ago there were changes in the fate of the ship. “Bryusov” has become an art cluster. New life, no longer as a disgrace, but as an adornment of Moscow. They started talking about him not only here, but also in the world.

Guests from abroad came to see how cleverly we converted the ship into a fashionable youth place. An analogue to “Bryusov” appeared in Sweden, recalls PR director of “Bryusovship” Sira Lobyan.

But you cannot escape from evil fate. This time it turned out that the city did not need the ship even in this status.

A few days ago, the Zamoskvoretsky court decided to remove it from the Moscow River.

“Previously, the Bruce ship was a brothel and a casino and a bar, but no one cared about it. Now everyone is shouting about small business, about “everything for youth”, about the development of cultural life in the country, and by decision of the prosecutor’s office they are closing and taking away the ship, on which there was an incredible number of activities, schools, master classes, film screenings, stores of young Russian designers,” - residents of the art cluster have already posted a petition in defense of the ship.

Now on the Bryusov there is a feast during the plague. Lectures, film screenings, parties, performances. The last resident will move out on May 11th. In another four days, the ship's deck will be closed to the public. What then?

We were told that “Bryusov” would be transported to the cemetery. “He will stand there until they decide what to do with him,” Sira Lobyan sighs.

Most of all, the art cluster employees are afraid that before the ship is taken away, it will be mutilated. Someone at the top has already promised to cut off the ship’s wheelhouse and third deck “to fit under the bridge.”

A CITY MUST HAVE ACCESS TO WATER

Like in a cemetery! How to cut a felling? You've lost your mind! - 86-year-old Bagrov shouts into the phone. - This is a new ship. Yes, he has been working for seventy years! But we don’t have enough ships.

The former minister could not come to his senses for a long time from such news and assured us that the whole situation with the ship was “a provocation and a misunderstanding.”

We finally have prospects for water tourism. New water routes. Recently, a decision was made to build two ships similar to the Bryusov, one will sail along the Moscow-Astrakhan route, the other from the capital to Stockholm. Losing a ship under current conditions is a crime. I don’t understand the fight against landing stages. Look how many floating structures there are on the Seine. Everywhere a person is drawn to relax by the water and there is no need to deprive him of this opportunity. Every city should have access to water.

At the end of the conversation, Bagrov promised.

I will congratulate our minister on Easter and tell him what is happening. Our Transport Minister Maxim Sokolov is caring and good. I'm sure he will understand.

SECOND CHANCE

I say absolutely precisely: “Bryusov” will not be put on pins and needles,” the head of Mosturflot Konstantin Anisimov told Komsomolskaya Pravda.

- Konstantin, what’s going on? We are all concerned about the fate of “Valery Bryusov”...

Yes, unfortunately, so are we. The problem is that Moscow does not want to see any watercraft on its territory.

Is the ship in danger of being destroyed?

If we are going to put anything on pins and needles, it will be old ships. We also have sixty-year-old ships that have served well.

What are the options for Bryusov? Art cluster employees say that it is possible to place it near Nizhny Novgorod or Cheboksary...

This won't be the best solution. At one time, the Moscow Shipping Company spent a lot of money on providing the ship with communications. We built a transformer substation, a sewer collector, installed a water supply system... At the new location we will have to do everything all over again, which is very expensive, not to mention the fact that the ship needs to be somehow towed to a new location, which is also expensive.

The twin brother of "Valery Bryusov" - the vessel "Alexander Blok" - was re-equipped and now it sails along the rivers. Is it possible to give Bryusov a second chance?

This is exactly what we want to do. Based on the Blok, we built a completely new ship that carries Australian tourists. It is worth trying to convert it to the condition of the cruise ship "Bryusova". We have an old ship “Sergei Obraztsov”, which goes to Konstantinov. He is over sixty years old. Perhaps he will be replaced by “Bryusov”.

Rumor has it that Bryusov does not have any mechanisms. All equipment went to “Sergei Yesenin”.

It's not a problem. If the Bryusov is modernized, we will change cabins and equipment. The ship's hull remains in good condition.

I talked to experts, they argued that it is easier to build a new ship than to repair an old one.

This is wrong. A complete re-equipment will cost 250-300 million rubles. A new ship costs approximately 25-30 million euros. But we must understand that the re-equipment will not begin today or tomorrow. Maybe in two years. During this time, the ship must be somewhere. It would be easier for all of us if he stayed in the same place. Therefore, I really hope that the signatures that activists collect in defense of the ship will reach the recipient. It would be good if the mayor's office reconsidered its decision.

Latest news from Crimean embankment. The ship, moored at the Muzeon art park, will soon be sent to the most distant backwater of the capital. And we are not talking about the ship on which Peter the Great stands. And about the one who is white and pointed-nosed. With cabins. Decks. And the Russian flag. Tourists willingly take selfies against its background. And Muscovites too. Someone goes inside to get something to eat. Or look for some new things. Because there are even shops and cafes on board the non-self-propelled vessel. He was brought to the center of Moscow in 1993 from Austria. At that time, “Bryusov” was not only a restaurant, but also a hotel.

And in recent years, a whole art object has been made from it! The guys from the team of the Flacon design plant came to Muzeon, on whose territory the ship is located, and asked to give them several decks and cabins. Well, to hold various events there. Yoga and choreography classes. Film screenings. Lectures. Discos. Exhibitions. In general, create a cultural center inside this bandura. Muzeon said that they are not against it, but the owner of the ship is the Moscow Tourist Fleet. The guys applied there and soon, having paid a certain amount for rent, received permission. The activists do not admit how much they paid. They say it's a trade secret. Two years have passed since then. And only now it became clear that “the vessel operates in the format of an art center on the water and is operated without a water use agreement.” This is stated in the official statement of the Moscow prosecutor's office.

SEVEN CARING PEOPLE

In general, it turned out that “Valery Bryusov”, despite his big name, does not have the right to stand on the Crimean embankment. Why such a check was carried out only now is anyone's guess.

In addition, the owner will have to pay a fine of 50 thousand rubles to the state treasury, the supervisory department added to KP. - And another 10 thousand will be paid personally by the general director of Mosturflot.

Yes, indeed, the prosecutor’s office is closing “Bryusov,” one of the art ship activists confirmed. - But we do not intend to lose heart. We will look for another location for deployment.

- What do you even do?

The art ship was invented to organize cultural events on it. If they were paid, we prepared all the necessary documents. But there were also free ones. In fact, this is the world's first creative cluster! And we are glad that we were given the opportunity to expand. Well, it doesn’t matter that the prosecutor’s office is closing the ship. We do not intend to curtail our activities.

- Who are you? And how many of you are there?

We are a group of caring young people. We all work in different places. Now there are seven people.

THE LAST OF THE MOHICANE

“The Bryusov Ship is one of the last ships to be removed from the Moscow River,” Nikolai Matushevsky, owner of the Flakon design plant, told KP. - Now the project is faced with the task of maintaining friendly relations with all partners and finding a new place for the ship. Among the possible locations for the future action of the project, Rostov-on-Don, Nizhny Novgorod, Cheboksary are considered. We are also open to any proposals from regions that would be ready to take over the management of this project.

The ship "Valery Bryusov", by the way, is already 32 years old. Although experienced sailors say that this is not age for such a vessel.

If, of course, he is properly monitored,” Andrei Sharov, head of the international association of public organizations of naval veterans and submariners, told KP. - It all depends on the conditions of detention and on the attitude of the crew. Look, the sailing ship “Kruzenshtern” is almost a hundred years old, and everything is moving. In this case, the vessel is not used for its intended purpose. And this almost always leads to the death of the ship.

The famous motor ship will remain near the Muzeon park for about another month. At least that’s what representatives of the Flakon design plant say (Mosturflot does not report this).

SHIP "VALERY BRYUSOV"

Passenger cruise ship

Date of construction: 1984

State: not in use, moored vessel

The vessel was taken out of service in 1992

Since June 1993, moored as a rack-mounted vessel at the Crimean embankment on the Moskva River in Moscow

Passenger capacity: 100 passengers, 14 crew