It is not enough to know the categories of passes, you need to feel them. On a non-categorical one, you calmly walk along the path up the mountain, then down the mountain, sort of walking tour... 1A the simplest of the categories is enough self-belay. This is when you insure yourself - with an alpenstock or, because with a backpack, our jumping ability and mobility suffers greatly. Well, and constant attention - every step with your foot needs to be thought out, taking into account the slippery surface, and the "live" stones and moving loose. On more difficult passes, you already need so carefully trained in knots, harnesses and railings.
Emotions are also important in the mountains. With heavy loads, people are not so nice, someone is holding back anger, someone is crying. And then you watch a video of another group - a girl climbs the rope and smiles. - Why is she without a backpack? - I couldn't, the boys raised it for her. And he smiles, and when you couldn't lug your backpack you didn't want to smile at all.
Knees are a weak point, but not all. The load on them is great, especially on the descent, and some of them wrap their knees with elastic bandages for prevention. Others suffer from hip joints and it's worse - you can't wrap them up anymore.
There is another nuisance that can be encountered - a sprain on the foot. Neither life-saving nor caution helps - when you, along with a 16-kilogram one, are literally blown away by the wind while moving along the slippery valleys of overflowing streams, you can get such a nuisance that you will feel even six months after the hike.
Starmeans a possible increase in the categorization of the pass depending on the conditions of passage.
Sun Sign means an increased avalanche hazard.
"Khibinskaya fall"- November," Khibinskaya winter spring"- December-April.
The classifier was created by Konstantin Beketov.
| name | height | summer | fall | winter spring | the pass connects ... |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Academic | 1075 | 1A | 1B | 1B | the first right tributary of the Kuniyok River - the Tul'yok River |
| Aku-Aku | 440 | n / a | 1A | n / a | Yum'ekorruai Brook - left tributary of the Goltsovka River |
| Arsenyeva East | 1030 | n / a | 1A! | 1A! | Fersman Creek - eastern source of Meridianal Creek |
| Arsenyev West | 1000 | 1A | 1B! | 1B! | Chilman brook - center. source of the Meridian stream |
| Nameless | 925 | 1B | 1B! | 1B! | r.Tulyok - r.Kukisyok |
| Petrel | 1080 | 2A | 2A *! | 2A *! | the source of the Malaya Belaya River - the Kuniyok River |
| Question | 940 | n / a | 1A | 1A * | stream flowing from the Geografov lane to the south-west - an unnamed lake in the south-west of the circus of the Takhtarvumchorr ridge |
| Wortkewive | 750 | n / a | 1A! | 1A! | r.Tulyok - mine named after Kirov |
| Tall | 1125 | 1A | 1B! | 1B! | the source of the Kalyok river - the southern circus of the city of Central Lyavochorr |
| Geographers | 880 | 1A | 1A | 1A | industrial zone Apatity - Lake Mal.Vudyavr |
| Gorely (Valley of Waterfalls) | 400 | n / a | n / a | n / a | r.Takhtaryok - next. south stream; at the border of the forest |
| Gury Vostochny (Nyorkpakhk Vostochny) | 680 | n / a | n / a | n / a | |
| Gury West (Nyorkpahk West) | 650 | n / a | 1A | 1A | open pit Koashva - Tymshasuive stream |
| Deniskina Joy | 680 | 1A | 1A | 1A | stream Nefelinovy \u200b\u200b- stream Zvezdochka |
| Star | 300 | n / a | n / a | n / a | Zvezdochka stream - Yum'ekorruay stream |
| Impulse (South Yumyecorr) | 840 | 1A | 1A | 1A | Nefelinovy \u200b\u200bstream - left inflow of the Meridianal stream |
| Canyon | 680 | 1A | 1B | 1A | Medvezhiy Log brook - next stream to the south; in the west shoulder of V. Chilman |
| Cornice 1 to 4 | 1020 | 1B * | 2A | 2A! | circus lane Shchel - Hackman brook |
| Cornice 5 | 1010 | 1B | 2A | 2A! | circus lane Shchel - the source of the river Vuonemjok |
| Catastrophe East (Takhtarvum) | 920 | 1B | 2A! | 2A! | left tributary of the Malaya Belaya River - following a stream to the southeast from the Takhtaryok stream |
| Catastrophe Western | 900 | 1B | 2A! | 2A! | left tributary of the Malaya Belaya - Takhtaryok stream |
| Cross (Rocky) | 1005 | 1B * | 2A! | 2A! | Fersman lane circus - circus of the sources of Petrelius brook |
| Kukisvum | 480 | n / a | n / a! | n / a! | Kuniyok river - Kukisyok river |
| Kuropachiy | 430 | n / a | n / a | n / a | Tulyok River - Kaskasnyunyok River, west of Rypnetsk |
| Loparsky | 644 | n / a | 1A | 1A | mine named after Kirov (Loparskaya river) - Tulyok river |
| Lyavochorr North | 700 | n / a | n / a | n / a | Sev.Lyavoyok river - Perevalnaya river |
| Lyavochorr Central | 925 | 1B | 1B! * | 1B! * | Sev.Lyavoyok river - Kalyok river |
| Lyavochorr South | 1090 | 1A | 1B | 1B | Kalyok river - Lyavoik river |
| Mannepahk | 790 | n / a | 1A | 1A | avenue tributary of the Mannepahk River (Individualvichvumyok) - Mannepakhkuay River |
| Marchenko (Kuelporr) | 670 | n / a | 1A | 1A! (cornice!) | 3rd right tributary of the Kuniyok River - Risyok River |
| Namuive | 520 | n / a | n / a | n / a | Kalyok river - Maivaltajok river |
| Ludicrous | 760 | n / a | 1A | 1A! | Mal.Belaya river - stream, trail to the north of the Takhtaryok river; east of the Khibiny |
| November | 790 | 1A | 1A * | 1A * | right tributary of the Malaya Belaya - stream, next to the south of the Medvezhy Log stream |
| Deceiving | 563 | n / a | n / a | n / a | Kalyok river - Obmannaya river |
| Deer (Random) | 730 | 1A | 1B * | 1B | Wed Kalyok flow - Wed Mayvaltajoka flow |
| Eagle | 1100 | 2A | 2A *! | 2A! | Petrelius Creek - Fersman Creek |
| Partomporr | 533 | n / a | n / a | n / a | Wed flow Kaskasnyunjok - Maivaltajok river |
| Partomchorr Northern | 840 | n / a | n / a | n / a | river Lyavojok - river Mayvaltajok |
| Partomchorr South | 770 | n / a | 1A | 1A | River Lyavoik - River Sev.Kaskasnyunyok |
| Petrelius East | 883 | 1A | 1B | 1B | |
| Petrelius West | 840 | n / a | 1B | 1A | river Malaya - Petrelius stream |
| Midnight | 1100 | 2A-2B | 2B! | 2B! | "Fersman's circus" - northern circus in Chasnachorr; along the couloir to glacier No. 2 |
| Postman | 600 | n / a | 1A | 1A | Medvezhiy Log stream - Nefelinovy \u200b\u200bstream |
| Putellichorr | 780 | 1A | 1B | 1B | Kuniyok River - left tributary of the Basseynaya Kuna River |
| Rainbow | 600 | n / a | n / a | n / a | Lake Komarinoe - Tulilukht Bay; east of Nyorkpahk |
| Ramsay | 800 | n / a | n / a | n / a | Mal.Belaya river - Poachyok stream |
| Rischorr North | 900 | n / a-1A | 1A | 1A | the Kaskasnyunyok river (Marakotova Abyss gorge) - sowing. the source of the Risyok river |
| Rischorr South | 890 | n / a | 1A | 1A | r.Kaskasnyunyok (gorge of Witches) - south. the source of the Risyok river |
| Saddle Wallepahk | 600 | n / a | 1A | 1A | avenue tributary of the Obmannaya River - the Kalyok River |
| Seven Samurai | 1050 | 1B | 2A! | 2A! | Meridianalny stream - northern circus in Chasnachorr; across the spur |
| Suoluive East | 560 | n / a | n / a | n / a | Kalyok river - Maivaltajok river |
| Suoluive West | 640 | n / a | n / a | n / a | Kalyok river - Maivaltajok river |
| Takhtar | 1120 | 1B * | 2A *! | 2A *! | circus on the left side of the valley of the Mal.Belaya river - Zap Poachyok brook |
| Takhtarvum (Takhtarvumchorra ravine) | 955 | 1B | 2A | 2A! | left tributary of the Malaya Belaya - the first stream to the south of the Takhtaryok stream |
| Crack | 960 | 2A | 2A * | 2A * | a variant of the Karniz pass, actually through the Bastion |
| Umbozersky | 527 | n / a | n / a | n / a | Partomyok river - Sev.Kaskasnyunyok river |
| Skalnoe gorge | 600 | n / a | n / a | n / a | the city of Kirovsk (the Bol Belaya river) - stream. from the lane of Geographers |
| Fersman | 980 | 1B | 2A * | 2A | ruch. Meridional - brook Fersman |
| Chasnachorr | 1130 | 1B | 1B *! | 2A! | circus of Fersman lane - the first left tributary of the Petrelius brook |
| Chilman | 790 | n / a | 1A | 1A | ruch. Chilmana - the left source of the Medvezhiy Log stream |
| Chorgorr North | 1020 | 1A | 1B! | 1B! | Kuniyok river - Indyvichvumyok river (Mannepakhk) |
| Chorgorr South | 850 | n / a | 1B | 1A | Kuniyok river - Chasnayok stream |
| Khibinpakhkchorra gap (North-South) | 780 | 1A | 1B | 1B | left tributary of the Goltsovka River - Yumiekorruay Creek |
| Eveslogchorra gap | 820 | 1B | 1B *! | 1B *! | pr. tributary of the Tul'yok River - Vuonemjok River |
| Eveslogchorr East | 810 | n / a | n / a | n / a | River Vuonnemjok - Tymshasuive stream |
| Eveslogchorr Western | 900 | n / a | 1A | 1A | pr. tributary of the Tuljok River - Vuonnemjok River |
| Eveslogchorr Central | 900 | 1B | 1B *! | 1B *! | tributary avenue tributary avenue of the Tuljok river - Vuonnemjok river |
| Yuksporlak | 674 | n / a | n / a | n / a | River Vuonnemjok - River Juksporrjok |
| Yumyecorr | 700 | n / a | n / a | n / a | Yumiekorruai Creek - left inflow of the Meridianal Creek |
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The most difficult section |
Number of insurance points |
Transition time |
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| n / a | |||
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Talus and rocky slopes up to 30g glaciers up to 15g |
Few hours |
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Snow and talus clones up to 45 g, light rocks |
No more than 1 day |
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Snow, ice, rocky slopes up to 45gr, icefalls |
Not more than a day |
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Snow, ice, rocky slopes over 45gr, icefalls, wall sections up to 15 meters |
At least a day |
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Snow, ice, rocky slopes up to 65gr, icefalls, wall sections up to 2 pitches |
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Snow, ice, rocky slopes over 60gr, icefalls, wall sections over 2 pitches |
At least two days |
Skirting around the rocky cliff near the lake, the trail first rises along a grassy slope, then goes to the talus and along it, serpentine, goes in the direction of the passage between the rocky outcrops. We begin to climb along it and, after 20 minutes, we leave to the fork in the paths. Height 3633 m, coordinates 42.3217616603 78.5256071482.
We choose the left path, which traverses the talus and gradually rises towards the pass. The right path goes down, along a grassy slope with stones, to the side campground "Aksai-Travel", and then to the shore of the lake.
The ascent along the path is not difficult, but monotonous (this is true about the entire path to the very pass). We go slowly, examine the rocks to the left of the path. In principle, one can find places for training here, but there are not very many flat areas where one could gather under the rocks, they are surrounded by trails of talus, there is no water along the entire length of the ascent.
The trail gradually turns to the pass. Crossing the talus, going in ridges, it periodically descends and rises, but the general nature of the ascent is a traverse of a talus slope with a slight climb. Almost all the time the trail goes under the rocks, crossing talus in their upper part. About 10-15 minutes before the pass, we go out to local flattening - the talus is larger here, the trail is lost on it, the path is marked with rounds. We climb the pass in 1 hour 10-20 minutes from the fork of the trails with one 10-minute halt. The saddle of pass 16 is wide, scree, with remnants of snow cornices hanging from it. These are the only snow patches on the pass takeoff on both sides of the pass, dry. To the east there is a view of the upper reaches of the Keldyke River.
Having gathered at the pass, we admire the magnificent views of the lake, the surrounding peaks and glaciers. Altitude 3920 m. At 13:55 we begin descent from the pass. We go down not to the camp, but to the shore of the lake (after about 20 minutes of descent along the trail, we leave it and, along one of the taluses, we go down to the water). Here, on a green terrace with a stream, we get up for lunch, finding a dry place (the lake shore is swampy). We went down here from the pass for 30 minutes.
2. Pass Panoramic 1B 3700 (1A 3500) ???
Rise 5: 00-5: 30, exit at 7:15. Overcast, completely calm, temperature + 8 °. The water in the lake is like a mirror; a faint breeze rises by the time we leave. The trail to the Panoramny pass goes at a distance of a couple of tens of meters from the water by a traverse of a talus slope, marked by tourists. After 10 minutes, when overcoming rocky outcrops, it divides into several, which then converge again. Suddenly in front, behind the circus of the pass, a massive rockfall descends: along one of the couloirs from the ridge line to the water, large stones fly and, falling into the lake, they raise giant fountains. Alarmed, we quickly pass the rest of the path under the rocks and make a halt at the entrance to the talus circus of the pass. Further ascent to the pass goes along medium and fine talus with plots of land, steepness up to 20 °. There is a trail in places, the talus is mostly stable. We leave for the pass at 8:45. It is windy, cool (+ 8 °), the panorama is hidden by clouds. We walk along a wide ridge to the east. There are no notes on the tour. Many of the participants are slightly "miner". The descent starts at 9:35 diagonal to the right to reach the wide talus slope of the southern slope at. 30 years of the Komsomol. There is a small mobile talus underfoot, there is a semblance of a path. We pass the beginning of the rocky-talus couloir, along which sometimes there is an ascent to the pass from the south-west, we go down 70 meters along the ridge limiting the couloir to the right (the remains of the trail), then again we leave to the right, to a wide slope, choosing areas of smaller talus. Then we go down this slope to the grass in a dense group, laying serpentines 35 minutes from the pass. The steepness of the slope is up to 25 °, the drop in height is 350 m. With the beginning of the descent, the weather improves, the sun comes out, gradually stretches the clouds. You can spend the night in the circus, but you will have to look for water closer to the port side. We begin our descent from the circus along the grassy slopes of the ancient moraines, first down, then going to the left side of the gorge. There is no good path, there are stones under the grass, it is not very convenient to walk. In 20 minutes we go out onto a grassy ledge (shoulder) above a steep grassy slope leading to the Keltor River. We decide to go down not directly along the stream, but by an oblique traverse to the left, in the direction of the upper reaches of the Keltor. After a few minutes of descent from the ledge along the grass to 20 °, we find an old, weak path going in the right direction. In places it is lost, but then it is found again. The trail makes the journey much easier. After 20 minutes of descent, we cross two shallow dry sai, then before entering the forest the path again becomes more obvious, however, judging by the sticking branches of fir and juniper, cattle have not been chased along it for a very long time. In a rare forest, the trail descends in a gentle serpentine and leads to a meadow overgrown with burdocks and sorrel near the dilapidated bridge over Keltor. When moving in the opposite direction, it is highly desirable to find this path, which can be difficult: its beginning from the river is poorly read. The descent is clearly visible from the valley of the Teleta river. In 15 minutes we reach the glade by the river from under the Black Stone Pass along a familiar path and set up a camp on it.
Report
about mountain tourist training
hike of the second category of difficulty
in the Western Caucasus,
committed by a group of tourists of the club mountain tourism Serpentine (Sochi)
July 11-24, 2008
2.8. Technical description route
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Wake up at 6:20. Partly cloudy. The group is in a combat state.
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The Duritsky pass was visible to us from the lane. Ak-Ayry Vost., Now, respectively, we see it from the parking lot.
We leave at 8:00. A U-shaped herbaceous talus saddle is visible directly in front of us. This is a false Duritsky pass, it leads to the valley of the Belaya River. Our pass is to the left (west) and is hidden from us by a destroyed rocky ridge. We follow the path along the bottom of the circus and climb to the next terrace of the valley. We stick to the left side in the direction of travel. Rounds are piled up in places where talus emerges. At 8:48 am we stop for a 10-minute rest on the next terrace. Passing along a wide snow-covered trench formed by the main ridge and an old sheep's forehead at the bottom of the circus, we go out under the pass takeoff.
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The take-off from the east is a conglomerate talus with a steepness of 30-40 degrees and a length of about 100 m, flattening upward. At the time of the passage, there was a small snowfield in the upper part.
At 10:10 the group climbed to the pass. Duritsky pass 1A *, 3000 m, located in the Arkasar ridge, connects the valleys of the Amanauz and Burnaya rivers (a tributary of the Big Laba), has an E-W orientation. It is a wide (about 50 m) talus saddle of destroyed rocks. Tour in the middle.
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Group on the lane. Duritskogo 1A * |
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In the east we see the dominant c. Pshish, the city of Chuchkhur is visible to its right, the city of Sofia is even more to the right. In the west, the city of Dukka-Bashi is visible in the Arkasar ridge, per. Dorbun, d / r Burnaya, d / r B. Lab.
In the tour, a note was found by a group of tourists from the Citadel tourist club, Belarus, Brest, dated August 18, 2008, who was making a hike 2 class.
At the pass, we eat a chocolate bar, take a photo, leave a note and at 10:50 we begin our descent.
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The descent begins in the southwestern part and is a talus 50 m long.
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The steepness is up to 40 degrees, the talus is small, mobile. Then the exit to the snowfield of the same steepness, which flattens down from the valley. Crossing a couple of snowfields and rocky talus, we make a halt at 12:25 at the bottom of the valley of the right tributary of the river. Stormy under the lane. Dorbun.
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We are meeting with the whole group about the further way of movement. There are two options. First: go down to the confluence of the right and left tributaries of the river. Burnoi, then along the left tributary climb to the circus of the Poachers and Vorontsov-Velyaminov passes. Second: Going down to the confluence, cross the buttress separating the right and left rivers. Stormy.
After consulting, we accept the second option, considering it more interesting and panoramic.
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Then we go in a southern direction, starting the traverse of the talus spur of the ridge. Climbing the spur, we find out that the ridge is a single one, but it is dissected by talus couloirs into rays converging in the upper part. We are on the northernmost ray. The extreme southern ray is directed towards us by a large number of simple rocky outcrops on a steep grassy slope, overcoming which will require a significant expenditure of energy. Therefore, we climb up our ridge to the place where the rays converge. The steepness of the slope is about 20-30 degrees. We cross the snowfield.
We go along the snowfield of the not melted snow pressure of the ridge and cross the pressure of the upper part in the place of its flattening and come out to the ridge separating the tributaries.
We cross the ridge, which is of medium steepness, large-stone talus and a panorama opens up to us with a view of the Vorontsov-Velyaminov glacier and the valley of the river. Stormy. The path of the ascent to the lane is fully visible. Vorontsov-Velyaminov.
At 13:20 in this panoramic place, we will stop for a break to enjoy the beauty of the views. At 13:40 we begin our descent from the ridge, which is represented by a grassy-talus slope with a steepness of about 30 degrees. At 14:00 we stop on a gentle grassy terrace where we stop for lunch. From the terrace we can perfectly see the lane. Poachers, where we soon notice the group of D.V. Timofeev.
There is a powerful stream in the parking lot, where we take water.
We observe the group of Timofeev D.V. descending from the pass. When they went down below the level of our terrace, we establish a voice connection with them. After talking and learning the latest news, we return to our business. Because we have two half-walks left to go, during lunch we dry our things, we have a rest.
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At 4:35 pm we descend from the lunch place by traverse down a non-steep medium-stone talus to a lake in the circus lane. Poachers. There is a small halt at the lake 16:50.
At 17:00 we leave along the sloping talus plateau of the retreating glacier to the right of the nunatak separating the two branches of the Vorontsov-Velyaminov glacier. We propose to go to the left bank moraine, where, according to the description, there are places for spending the night. Steepness up to 15 degrees. Approaching the slope of the moraine, we find sites for three tents.
There is a brook nearby, so at 17:15 we stop here for a break. As it turned out later, there are indeed many areas for tents on the ridge, but there is no water.
We set up camp and have dinner at 19:30. Partly cloudy. In the evening, tours approached the camp.
The group is in good condition.
The number of categories of difficulty in all types active tourism 6. With an increase in the category of difficulty of the hike, its difficulty increases from I to VI (table 1). The difficulty category of the route is determined by the local obstacles encountered on its way. In trekking (mountain tourism) - these are passes, in water tourism - rapids, in speleotourism - caves, etc. In turn, local obstacles can also be divided into several categories of difficulty. The difficulty category is used in the context of the hike in general, and the difficulty category is used for local obstacles on the hiking trail.
Table 1 - Standards for hiking in active tourism
| Difficulty category | I | II | III | IV | V | VI |
| Minimum duration, in days | 6 | 8 | 10 | 13 | 16 | 20 |
| Type of tourism | Minimum trekking distance, km | |||||
| Trekking (mountain tourism) | 100 | 120 | 140 | 150 | 160 | 160 |
| Bicycle | 300 | 400 | 500 | 600 | 700 | 800 |
| Water | 150 | 160 | 170 | 180 | 190 | 190 |
| Speleo (number of caves) | 5 | 4-5 | 1-2 | 1-2 | 1-2 | 1 |
| Pedestrian | 130 | 160 | 190 | 220 | 250 | 300 |
| Ski | 130 | 150 | 170 | 210 | 240 | 300 |
In trekking, the route of the hike should be linear or circular and make up at least 75% of the entire route. This was done so that in the event of a shortage of distance for offset in the IWC, tourists could make radial exits. "Radialka" is counted in one direction if the return is on the same path.
The difficulty of climbing in mountaineering is determined by the complexity of a particular route to a mountain peak. There are also 6 categories of difficulty, divided into 2 semi-categories A and B (1A grade in mountaineering is not included in the category rating). The difficulty categories of the route are determined by the difficulty of the local sections, of which there are also 6 from I to VI. There is also an international methodology for assessing the difficulty of rocky areas. UIAA - Union of International Mountaineering Associations. The classification is presented by 11 kt. from I to XI. You can watch it.
In trekking, the local obstacles are mainly passes (table 2). There are 3 main categories, divided into semi-categories, as in mountaineering - A and B. There are passes without a ct. - uncategorized (n / a on the maps). Trekking trips can include traverses and peaks. Here it is necessary to correctly transfer the mountaineering category of difficulty to trekking. It looks like this approximately:
- the nature of the most difficult sections of the pass;
- the equipment necessary to overcome the pass, the tactics of movement and the peculiarities of the places of overnight stay;
- quantitative characteristics (travel time, number of insurance points);
- necessary special equipment (Popchikovsky V.Yu.).
Any ski resort will be counted. includes several passes (table 2). The minimum number of passes of this or that difficulty has been established. In this case, the maximum number of passes in one route can be increased by 2. A tourist group can include passes of any difficulty that does not exceed the difficulty of the hike. It is worth noting that, starting from the III grade hike, the group has the right to decide for themselves which pass is more logical to pass.
Table 2 - Standards for the difficulty category of hiking in trekking
| Hike difficulty category | ||||||
| I | II | III | IV | V | VI | |
| Minimum number of passes | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 |
| The difficulty of the passes | ||||||
| 1A | 2 | 1 | ||||
| 1B | 2 | 1 | 1 | |||
| 2A | 2 | 1 | 1 | |||
| 2B | 2 | 1 | 1 | |||
| 3A | 2 | 1* | ||||
| 3B | 2* | |||||
* in the route VI class possible option lane. 2B - 1 piece, 3A - 3 pieces, 3B - 1 piece.
The difficulty of the passes is determined as follows (table 3).
Table 3 - Criteria for assessing the difficulty of the passes
(Table from the book "Russian tourist. Normative acts on sports and health tourism in Russia for 2001-2004.")
| K.T. pass | The nature of the most difficult sections of the path | Technique and conditions of movement | Total time (t) to overcome the pass. Number of belay points (n). Defining length (I) | Required special equipment |
| 1A | Simple, talus, snowy and rocky slopes with a steepness of up to 30 °, gentle (up to 15 °) glaciers without cracks, steep herbaceous slopes, on which cliffs are possible, usually there are paths on the approaches. | The simplest individual movement technique is self-belay with an alpenstock or an ice ax. When crossing rivers on the approaches, belaying with a rope may be required. Overnight stays are usually in a forest or meadow area. | Several hours.n \u003d 0I \u003d 0 | Non-slip shoes, alpenstocks, harnesses (chest harnesses) and carabiners for each participant. 1-2 main ropes per group. |
| 1B | Uncomplicated rocks, snow and talus slopes of medium steepness (from 20 to 45 °), and in some years also areas of ice on the slopes, usually covered with snow: closed glaciers with areas of hidden cracks. | The simplest collective technique: simultaneous movement in bundles on slopes and closed glaciers. Hanging railings on slopes and at crossings. Overnight stays are possible at the border of the glacial zone. | Not more than one day n \u003d up to 5I \u003d up to 40-50 m. | Boots with grooved soles, alpenstocks or ice axes (1-2 ice axes per group are required), safety systems and carabiners for each participant. One main rope for every 3-4 people. Rock and ice hooks (3-4 per group), rock and ice hammer. |
| 2A | Rock, snow, ice slopes of medium steepness (from 20 to 45 °), closed glaciers and simple ice falls. | More complex individual and collective techniques, alternate or group (rail) belay, use of crampons or stair felling may require hook belay. Accommodations are possible in the glacial zone. | Not more than a day n \u003d 5-10I \u003d up to 80-100 m. (2-3 pitches in a row) | In addition to those listed for passes 1B k.t. ice axes and "crampons" for each participant, hooks in the required quantity and range. One main rope for every 2-3 people. |
| 2B | Steep (over 45 °) snow, ice and rocky slopes of medium difficulty, short (up to 10-15 m) wall sections of medium difficulty icefalls are possible. | The use of the most common arsenal of techniques: fixed or alternating belay, the use of pitons, the movement of the former on the ascent, and the latter on the descent without a backpack, separate ascent and descent of backpacks, descent on a rope (rappel). As a rule, overnight stays in the glacial zone are inevitable. | At least one day.n = 5-20I \u003d up to 200 m (3-5 pitches in a row) | In addition to those listed for the 2A kt passes: braking devices for rappelling and (preferably) clamps for climbing. Auxiliary ropes, loops, expendable rope ends and rappels. |
| 3A | Steep (from 45 to 65 °) snow, ice and rocky slopes of considerable length, wall sections up to 1-2 pitches in a row, difficult ice falls. | The use of various methods of movement and insurance over long stretches, including the use of artificial supports, ladders, anchors, etc. Generally, preliminary reconnaissance and route processing is required. Tactics are becoming increasingly important. Repeated overnight stays in the ice zone are inevitable. Setting up a bivouac can be time and effort consuming. | Up to two days n \u003d 10-40I \u003d 200 to 500 m. (Up to 10 pitches in a row) | In addition to the equipment listed above, clamps for climbing a rope, it is possible to use main and auxiliary ropes of increased length, it may be necessary to use ladders, tabs and hooks extracted during the descent. |
| 3B | The same as for 3A, but with a greater length of complex sections, their varied nature or extreme complexity, including walls with a steepness of 60 ° or more. | The need for almost continuous mutual and group insurance for many hours and even days, special, designed to overcome this pass, preparation of excellent possession of equipment by all participants of impeccable tactics. It is possible that there are no places for overnight stays, which requires the organization of sitting or hanging bivouacs. | Not less than two days n ≥ 30I \u003d 500 m and more (more than 10 ropes in a row) | Same as 3A grade. Equipment specially prepared for overcoming a specific pass may be required. |
The criteria for evaluating routes on mountain peaks includes:
- the absolute height of the top;
- the length of the route;
- the steepness of the slopes, the nature of the relief;
- technical complexity of individual sections;
- the total number of sections of varying degrees of difficulty on the way to the top;
- approaches and descent from the summit are not included in the difficulty category of the route.
In general, they are similar to the assessment of passes. The difficulty of climbing routes is determined as shown in tables 4 and 5.
Table 4 - Criteria for assessing the complexity of routes to mountain peaks
| C.S. tops | The nature of the slopes of the summit | Difficulty category of the sections along the route (for details on the ct, see the table below). | Total time (t) to overcome the top. Number of belay points (n). |
| 1B | Rock / snow-ice or combined route, peaks up to 5000 m. The average length of the route is 500 m, the average steepness is 10-25 °. | The basis is made up of plots of 0 kt. It is necessary to have a site I grade. (rocky: 20-30 m and more, or ice-snow: 80-100 m and more) or the presence of several sections of II grade. (each - 3-15 m of rocky or 30-40 m of ice-snow character). | t from 1.5 to 8 hours n \u003d 0+ |
| 2A | The basis is made up of sections 0 and I grade. It is necessary to have a section II grade. (rocky: 5-20 m, or ice-snow: 80-100 m). | t from 2 to 10 hours n \u003d 0+ | |
| 2B | Rock / snow-ice or combined route, peaks up to 6000 m. The average length of the route is 550 m, the average steepness is 15-30 °. | The basis is made up of sections 0 and I grade. It is necessary to have a section II grade. (rocky: 15-30 m or more, or ice-snow: 80-100 m and more) or the presence of several sections of III grade. (each - 3-10 m of rocky or 20-50 m of ice-snow character). | t from 2 to 10 hours n \u003d 0-3 |
| 3A | The basis is made up of sections I and II grade. It is necessary to have a section III grade. (rocky: 5-20 m, or ice-snow: 50-200 m). | t from 3 to 10 hours n \u003d 1-3 Descent by rope is possible. | |
| 3B | Rocky / snow-ice or combined route, peaks up to 6500 m. The average length of the route is 600 m, the average steepness is 20-40 °. | The basis is made up of sections I and II grade. It is necessary to have a section III grade. (rocky: 20-30 m, or ice-snow: 100-300 m) or the presence of several sections of IV grade. (each - 3-15 m of rocky or 50-100 m of ice-snow character). | t from 3 to 10 hours n \u003d 2-6 Descent on the rope. |
| 4A | The basis is made up of sections II and III grade. It is necessary to have a site IV grade. (rocky: 20-50 m, or ice-snow: 50-200 m). | t ≥ 5 hours n \u003d 10-15 + It may be necessary to organize an overnight stay on the route. Descent by rope. | |
| 4B | Rock / snow-ice or combined route, peaks up to 7000 m. The average length of the route is 650 m, the average steepness is 30-50 °. | The basis is made up of sections II and III grade. It is necessary to have a site IV grade. (rocky: 40-80 m, or ice-snow: 200-400 m) or the presence of several sections V grade. (each - 3-15 m of rocky or 50-150 m of ice-snow character). | t ≥6 hours n \u003d 10-20 + In most cases, it will be necessary to organize an overnight stay on the route. Descent by rope. |
| 5A | Rocky / snow-ice or combined route, peaks up to 7500 m. The average length of the route is 700 m, the average steepness is 40-60 °. | The basis is made up of sections III and IV grade. It is necessary to have a site V grade. (rocky: 10-40 m, or ice-snow: 100-400 m). | t ≥6 hours n \u003d 15-20 + In most cases, it will be necessary to organize an overnight stay on the route. Descent by rope. |
| 5 B | Rock / snow-ice or combined route, peaks over 2000 m. The average length of the route is 750 m, the average steepness is 45-70 °. | There are practically no sections of I and II grade. The basis is made up of sections III and IV grade. It is necessary to have a site V grade. (rocky: 50 m, or ice-snow: 300-500 m) or the presence of several sections of the VI grade. (3-20 m each). | t ≥ 8 hours n \u003d 40-50 + In most cases, a technically complex arrangement of overnight accommodation on the route will be required. Descent only by rope. |
| 6A | Rocky / snow-ice or combined route, peaks over 3000 m. The average length of the route is 800 m, the average steepness is 65-75 °. | There are practically no sections of I-III grade. The basis is made up of sections IV and V grade. It is necessary to have sections VI grade. (each - 20-40 m or more), with a total length of at least 200 m. | t ≥ 3 days n \u003d 100 + Requires a technically complex organization of overnight accommodation on the route (mostly sitting or hanging places). Descent only by rope. |
| 6B | Rock / snow-ice or combined route, peaks over 3000 m. The average length of the route is 800 m, the average steepness is 70-80 °. | There are practically no sections I-IV grade. The basis is made up of sections V and VI grade. | t ≥ 3 days n \u003d 100 + A technically complex arrangement of overnight accommodation on the route is required (mainly hanging hammocks, etc.). Descent only by rope. |
| K.T. | The nature of the sites | Passing technique |
| 0 | Snow-ice, rocky slopes and ridges with a steepness of 10-20 °. | The sections are traversed by the simultaneous movement of the entire group. |
| I | Snow and ice areas with a steepness of 15-30 °, not steep rocks. | The sections are traversed with the simultaneous movement of the entire group, using the hands to maintain balance. |
| II | Snow and ice areas with a steepness of 25-30 °, not steep rocks. | The sections are traversed alternately, and experienced climbers simultaneously, using their hands to maintain balance. |
| III | Snow and ice areas with a steepness of 30-45 °, steep rocks with numerous hooks and ledges, or gentle, but smooth rocks. | The rocky sections are traversed by "free climbing", with the main load on the legs and a backpack on the shoulders. Snow and ice sections are traversed by the technique in "three steps" or in crampons. |
| IV | Snow and ice areas (slopes and ridges with snow cornices) with a steepness of 40-55 °, steep rocks with few hooks and ledges. | Rocky sections are traversed "free climbing", passing with a backpack on the shoulders is possible, but very difficult. Snow and ice areas are traversed mainly on the front teeth of the crampons. |
| V | Snow and ice areas (slopes and ridges with snow cornices) with a steepness of more than 45 °, steep cliffs with a few inconvenient hooks and ledges. | Rocky sections are passed by "free climbing" or with artificial support points (AID). Passing with a heavy backpack on your shoulders is impossible. Snow and ice areas are traversed mainly on the front teeth of crampons, but mainly with the setting of AID. |
| VI | Rocky vertical walls and overhangs with uncomfortable, few hooks and ledges. | Passing the sections requires efforts at the limit of a person's capabilities. |
There is no official assessment of the backcountry routes in the post-Soviet space. The difficulty category of backcountry routes is closely intertwined with the difficulty of mountaineering and tourist routes (table 6).
Table 6 - Assessment of the complexity of the backcountry routes ( Vitaliy Rage)
| C.S. route | The difficulty (rating) of the descent (ski)* | Analog in mountaineering | Average slope and relief | Features of the descent and the degree of danger |
| F -Simple | 1, 2.1, 2.2 | n / a, flat | ≤28 o, hilly area without obstacles. | No key areas, no risk of losing control and falling. |
| PD – Not very difficult | 2.1-3.2 | n / a, cooler | 28-35 o, open spaces with small areas of steep relief. Skiing in the forest. Not very steep and short tapering. | Turns are possible to overcome obstacles. Steep sections with good slope. |
| AD - Average | 3.2-4.3 | 1A, 1B | 35-40 o, steep sections are inevitable. Short and very steep tapering. | The need for short turns. Risk of injury from loss of control. Overcoming obstacles requires a quick response. |
| D – Complex | 4.2-5.2 | 2A-3A | 40-45 o, steep slope, rocks, precipices, ice. | Short turns are still possible. Lots of obstacles that require excellent equipment handling. If you fall, death is possible. |
| TD – Very difficult | 5.3+ | 3B-4B (5A) | 45-50 o, very steep slope, many rock faults, steps, cliffs, large cracks. | Short turns and crawls along long, steep corridors are partly necessary. Descent by rappelling is possible. If you fall, death is likely. |
| ED (EX) - Extreme | 5.4+ | 5A and higher | 50-55 o, steep walls and couloirs, rocky steps, faults, cliffs, large cracks. | Short turns and crawls on long steep corridors are required. Passage of rocky walls by rappelling. Lack of safe stopping points |
Methods for categorizing other types of active tourism can be found in detail in this book on pages 86-115. Vostokov I.E., Panov S.N. Russian tourist. Regulatory acts on sports and health tourism in Russia for 2001-2004. - M., 2001. Download .
Officially, the passage of the routes can be issued in Federation of sports tourism and tourist all-around, we have such ... On the website you can find various information on tourist and sports activities on active species tourism: competitions, touriads, festivals, water regattas, etc. all over Kazakhstan. But this, if you want to become an athlete, if not, then join us.
In mountain tourism and mountaineering, there are categories of difficulty (c.s.) defined by the Unified All-Russian Sports Classification of Tourist Routes (EVSKTM) and Recommendations for the classification of climbing routes approved by the Russian Mountaineering Federation.
The difficulty category of the hike consists of the number and complexity of local obstacles, the length of the route and its duration. There are six categories of difficulty for hiking and for local obstacles - passes and peaks. Hikes are classified from 1st to 6th grade, and for local obstacles the following gradations have been introduced: uncategorized passes (n.c.), 1A, 1B, 2A, 2B, 3A, 3B.
"Uncategorized" (n.k.) hikes are used to prepare beginners and are available to everyone, as well as a hike of the 1st category of difficulty. They differ in that they lack the number of passes or they are too short. Usually, hiking n.k. and 1st class are held in low mountainous areas, they are not terrible for health and do not require special technical skills and special equipment.
The sections of the second - a simple difficulty - are snow-ice sections with a steepness of 25-30 ° and not steep rocks. Elementary mountaineering training is required during the passage.
The sections of the third - medium difficulty - are ice-snow sections with a steepness of 30-45 °. Mountaineering itself begins with this category of difficulty, since movement along such areas requires special mountaineering training and equipment for organizing safe movement (insurance).
The fourth sections are above average difficulty (difficult). These are steep (40-55 °) ice-snow slopes and ridges with a variety of snow eaves, the passage of which requires intense free climbing and good mastery of the technique of moving the piedmont terrain. Equipment: climbing shoes, crampons, ice axes, for organizing belaying and self-belaying - various rock hooks, ice axes, bookmarks, carbines, hammers, consumable cords, ropes.
The sections of the fifth difficulty are steep (more than 45 °) ice-snow slopes, walls and ridges with various snow cornices, which are traversed on the front teeth of the crampons, but generally require the creation of artificial points of support. To pass these sections, good special mountaineering technical, tactical, physical and moral training is required. Equipment: special climbing shoes, crampons, ice axes, a wide range of different rock hooks, embedded elements, drills, carbines, hammers, auxiliary cords, ladders. Insurance and lanyard - only hook, descents are carried out only by rappels.
The areas of the sixth difficulty are smooth vertical and overhanging rocks with a very limited number of uncomfortable and small-sized holds, stops, ledges, ledges necessary for organizing movement, and even cracks that allow organizing artificial points. Even short narrow (for one person) shelves for rest are practically absent. The sections require excellent mastery of the highest mountaineering special technique of movement, tactical, physical, psychological and moral preparation, mastery of special mountaineering technique for their passage and can be passed by a limited number of very well-trained athletes-climbers.
