Autumn is the most the best time in order to go to the Pillars. There are no ticks anymore, and the sun does not bake so much, and autumn colors will certainly delight the eye. On weekends, there are real traffic jams on the climbs to popular pillars. Therefore, we went on a weekday, when there are much fewer people. And a bit of an unusual route.
To begin with, a little about the reserve, if suddenly someone has not heard about it.
It was founded in 1925 at the initiative of the residents of the city to preserve the natural complexes around the picturesque syenite outliers - "pillars". At present, its area is 47154 hectares. It is located on the northwestern spurs of the Eastern Sayan bordering on the Central Siberian plateau. Part of the reserve territorially belongs to Krasnoyarsk. Although in reality, only a small part is accessible to tourists. 90% of the territory of Stolby is a zone of strict conservation regime, the presence of a person there is prohibited.
1. The first point of the hike was Takmak rock. This rock is clearly visible from almost anywhere in the city. Climbing Takmak is not so easy, and without equipment it is almost impossible. 
2. But the views of the city can be admired from the site which is located at the foot of Takmak. 
I saw a haze over the city. I wanted to shoot classic views from Takmak, but apparently it will have to be done some other time.
3. In the photo there is the Communal Bridge and the city center, and in the foreground is the residential complex White Rosy under construction. 
4. Bazaikha. 
5. Campus. 
6. Bridgehead. LCD South Coast. 
7. This is how Takmak himself looks from the site. 
8. From Takmak we go along the path through the Beaver Log and the Enchanted Forest. Last time I went here 2 years ago. I didn’t think that the improvement of the Stolby would even reach here. They put signs everywhere, now it's hard to get lost :) 
9. After an hour and a half walk through the forest, we come to the Pervenets rock. 
10. From here you can already see the Central Pillars. What I don't like to walk straight down the main road is the continuous uphill. 7 kilometers uphill to the First pillar. 
11. Second pillar. 
12. 
13. Feathers. 
14. Fourth - go straight to him. 
15. This is one of the simplest pillars, you can climb it without any problems holding the camera in one hand. 
16. But in itself I really like this post. In general, of course, each pillar is beautiful in its own way. 
17. There is a crevice in the middle. It turns out that the pillar has two peaks. 
18. At one of the peaks. 
19. You can get to the top with many moves. One of the moves is "Balamuty". 
20. Stone at the top. How did he get here? 
21. View to the south-east towards Takmak. 
22. 
23. The first pillar. 
24. Takmak. Takmak includes a number of spurs - "Big Berkut", "Mongol" and "Totem" and others. There are even two caves in the rock massif, one of which is located on the sheer cliff wall. 
25. 
26. At the top we met a handsome nuthatch. 
27. We approach the First pillar. 
28. Nearby there is a stone "Elephant". On weekdays, there are not so many people, so no one even tried to climb on it. And on weekends there are often queues. The stone was already so rubbed with shoes that it was not quite easy to climb on it. 
29. The First Pillar is probably the most popular among the pillars. There really is a lot of climbing here - more than 25 moves lead to the top. 
30. Before going up, we walked around it - we remembered the easy passages along which we climbed earlier. Yes, you should go here more often than once a year :) 
31. The move we followed was not the easiest. Periodically, there was a non-illusory opportunity to fall down. 
32. But we still got to the top. The sun was already very low above the horizon, which made the colors very interesting. 
33. 
34. The second is the highest among the Central pillars (96 meters). 
35. Laletino stream runs down the gorge. The main road to Stolby runs along it. 
36. Mountains in the sunset rays of the sun. 
To walk normally on the pillars, you must, of course, go out in the morning. We had plans to go to the Feathers and the Lion's Gate, but when we went down from the First it was already getting dark. So there was a good reason to go here again in the fall. Only perhaps now without a camera.
How to get there
You can get to the Eastern Entrance to the Stolby Reserve either by car or by bus No. 37 to the Pos. Bazaikha ".
The address: border of Krasnoyarsk and Berezovsky district
Expenses: 44 rubles when traveling by bus, 270 rubles - the cost of a lift, gasoline 15 rubles (30 km round trip from the city center)
Intended audience: amateurs active rest
Recommended season: all year round
pros: rest on fresh air, cardio workout
Minuses: absence tourism infrastructure, places of food and heating, distance from the bus stop, a small number of parking spaces
If you chose the first option, then follow the street. Bazayskaya past residential buildings to the abandoned children's camp rest, after which there will be a clearly visible turn with an exit from the asphalt road. If your car is able to overcome a small (but most often quite slippery in winter time) rise, then no further difficulties are expected. There are not very many parking spaces at the end of the road, so you should be prepared that the car will have to be left on the side of the road.
The second option, on the one hand, is more convenient, because you do not have to think about where to leave the car, and will allow you to go more interesting route... But, on the other hand, he will add to the walk, at least, an extra 2.5 km - that is how much you have to walk from the Pos. Bazaikha "to the Granite quarry, where there are" gates "marking the Eastern entrance.
How to get to the quarry by car
Travel by bus # 37 to the stop of the village. Bazaikha
Walking part of the walk from the stop to the granite quarry
On the way, you can admire the Red Ridge - one of the rocks of the Torgashinsky ridge
What to bring and how to dress
Keep in mind that the East entrance to "Pillars" has no infrastructure at all! Therefore, when going for a walk to this place, be sure to take with you a snack for the whole day, tea in a thermos, and in winter, stock up on "spare" mittens and warm socks (instead of those that will get wet).
Clothes will play an important role in this walk. All interesting objects are located so that you will have to climb to them along steep slopes.
Therefore, a prerequisite for our trip is comfortable shoes with non-slip soles! The rest of the clothes should be warm enough: first, during the climb, you will definitely be hot, and then you will get to the top of the mountain, where the wind will quickly cool your ardor.
What to see
It is important to remember that you most likely will not be able to get around all the sights of the Takmakovsky district of the reserve at one time - all the ascents have a height difference of about 300 meters and the length of the path is about 2 km. Therefore, we have divided the story into several parts - according to the number of attractions. Read, see the photos and feel free to choose any of them - thanks to the map attached at the end, you can go through each.
Takmak Massif from the East Entrance Gate
Granite quarry
For novice travelers who are not yet ready to go deep into the "Stolby", there is an opportunity to take a very short walk and hold a photo session just 200 meters from the parking lot.
For more than 100 years on the site of the Granite quarry, there were small stones with the funny name of Kizyama, but their blew up and sawed for the construction of a railway bridge across the Yenisei. In the 60s of the XX century, granite was again required for the finishing of the Communal Bridge, and the development continued under the rock mass of Ermak - this is how the Granite Quarry appeared.
In the 90s, the development of the quarry was completely stopped, the stones began to gradually overgrow with forest. Several years ago, as part of the reclamation of the quarry, the "extra" stones that blocked the path were removed.
For two years in this place, representatives of the mountaineering federation have been pouring an ice "icicle" - an almost vertical wall of ice, on which they conduct training before difficult ice ascents and organize competitions.
The townspeople also fell in love with the "icicle" - they arrange photo shoots around it, and the kids are happy to ride on the ice at the foot.
You can take a break from skiing and have a bite to eat in a small gazebo or on benches, but it's still not very comfortable, because at this time tourists will constantly ply past you who have decided to take a more distant walk.
General view of the quarry
Rock Ermak
The ascent to Ermak begins from the parking lot - you need to look for an exit to the trail in front of a house enclosed by a high fence.
The ascent is steep enough, but not too long - it will take even an unprepared person half an hour at the slowest pace. Be prepared for the fact that from time to time you will come across those who climbed to the rocks earlier and chose the high-speed descent option at the "fifth point". Therefore, immediately choose a snowy shoulder for climbing, although loud laughter and shouts will probably warn you about the approach of those descending.
The ascent ends in a huge blockage - a large number of trees on the slope were uprooted and piled on top of each other. These are the consequences of a hurricane that swept over this place in the 90s.
A few dozen more meters through the forest and you are already near the rock. Ermak - these are three peaks of different heights and degrees of difficulty of the ascent. The lightest and lowest of them is located farthest from the exit to the clearing. It offers a beautiful view of Takmak, you can see the road leading to the quarry, as well as part of the village of Bazaikha.
From the first peak (the second most difficult and requiring certain climbing skills) a view of the city opens up. But in winter it is better to look at Takmak from a small isthmus between the first and second peaks - climbing there is not difficult, the height is no more than two meters, and the rock is visible in the same way as from the top.
If you are lucky and you come here in calm weather, then be sure to go to the "chair" - a stump from an old pine tree with branches spread in different directions. This stump stands at the very top of the slope, turned towards the rock mass of Vorobushka and the Chinese wall. So from here you can just admire the boundless taiga, take interesting photos, have a snack and relax before returning home.
Ascent to Ermak
From the third, lowest peak of Ermak, a view of Takmak opens
Chinese wall
The simplest path from the Granite Quarry leads to the Chinese Wall. Thanks to the appearance of wooden bridges on the trails in the reserve, a walk along the Moss Creek became available to everyone, including many mothers with strollers. True, they pass only a gentle section and turn back at the beginning of the ascent.
The trail starts from the symbolic "gate" of the Eastern entrance to the reserve and goes first along the stream, and then turns to the left into a ravine, where it begins a leisurely ascent. It is very difficult to get lost on it - from the very gate, the path is marked with red marks on the trees, and with the beginning of the ascent, there are also numerous benches. The trail goes to the very beginning of the rock, which stretches from north to south for 300 meters. The northern part of the cliff is high, towering 50 meters vertically above the heads of tourists. Here you can relax in a small gazebo made of scrap material and leaf through an album listing all the rocky routes.
Route plans
The gate of the "Eastern Entrance" to the reserve
Thanks to the appearance in the reserve of wooden bridges on the trails, a walk along the Moss Creek became accessible to everyone
Uphill benches and tree trail markings
Chinese wall at the trail exit point
The Chinese wall is a sports rock. A huge number of climbing routes of varying difficulty have been laid along it. Therefore, you will definitely be able to watch how athletes climb the rocks, as well as try your hand, but only under the supervision of an experienced instructor.
In any case, try to climb up unaccompanied and without belay (especially if you have no climbing experience) we strongly not recommend.
In the southern part, the rock is badly destroyed, and the different-sized stones of which it once consisted are scattered at the foot. The southern part of the cliff is very beautiful, from here a beautiful view of Takmak opens. Only to climb the stones covered with snow must be very careful so as not to get completely unnecessary injury.
The southern part of the Chinese wall
"Kurumnik" at the foot of the cliff
View towards Takmak from the top of the talus
View of the rock massif Sparrow
View towards the Torgashinsky ridge
Sparrows
The Vorobushka rock massif consists of the Tsypa, Zhaba and Zhavoronok rocks. The ascent to it from the Moss Brook is the most difficult and steepest of all in the area. In order to get on the trail to Sparrows, you need to choose the right path along the mountain at the place where the wooden bridges end (while the left one, marked with red marks, goes to the Chinese wall). The turn from it to the ascent is marked with a sign warning about the rules of conduct in the reserve. In the summer, you have to overcome a small trickle, and in winter, slippery ice is difficult.
During the ascent, there is not much to look at - from time to time behind, among the trees, Takmak will appear, and to the left you can see either Ermak or Chinese Wall, but you will have no time to consider them. Almost at the very top of the ascent (if you have enough perseverance to overcome it), the trail will lead you to the rocks, which offer an excellent view of Takmak and the Chinese wall, which looks like a wall cut from above.
This view is especially beautiful at sunset, when the rocks are illuminated by the setting sun, and behind them the evening Krasnoyarsk lights up its lights.
The ascent up from this site becomes even more difficult and cool, and rests against a small rocky wall with an exit directly under the rocks. On our journey, it was at this place that we decided to stop, since climbing the snow-covered slippery stones was not very comfortable.
However, all these difficulties can be avoided by taking a slightly longer, but simpler path (this route is marked in yellow on the map at the end of the article). Climbing up to the Chinese wall, you can climb along the "kurumnik" (stone placers) to the very end of the wall and go to the "Old Chinese path" - as it is marked on the maps, leading along the ridges of mountains without serious descents and ascents. The path is quite long, but it will be much faster and more pleasant to go through it than to climb a steep mountain.
Ermak from the ascent to Sparrows
Chinese wall from the observation deck under Sparrows
Takmak overlooking the city after sunset
Pillars is our local reserve located just outside the city. It is an area of \u200b\u200bmountain taiga with picturesque rocks scattered among wooded mountains, mainly on their tops. There are two official entrances to the reserve: Central, the most popular, and Takmakovsky. In addition, from Stolby you can go to the upper station cable car fan park Bobrovy Log.
This time I suggested that the participants of the hike take a walk along the well-known route of the Takmakovsky district of Stolbov. We went up to the Chinese wall cliff, walked around it along the perimeter, went down to the Mokhovaya stream, and then climbed to the Takmak rock, from where we went to the cable car. The Takmakovsky district is notable for small distances between the mountains, but with steeper ascents and large elevation differences. So today we walked only 12 kilometers, but we gained more than 800 meters of altitude.
1. Our route
At the very beginning of the route, Takmak met us, although he was not the first destination of our trip. But it can be clearly seen already when approaching the reserve, and indeed, it can be seen even from the city. At an abandoned quarry, we stopped to watch how climbers train on the ice wall, which they specially filled and equipped this year. Recently a competition took place, so the ice on the wall is painted with blue and red lines marking the tracks.
The ascent to the Chinese wall was, albeit steep, but completely surmountable. People on ice floes were coming to meet us. It's always like this in the Takmakovsky district: to get down from these steep mountains it's easier to sit on the ice than to stand on your feet, anyway, while standing, you risk suddenly finding yourself in a sitting position. The wind blew near the Chinese wall, we even froze a little. We walked around the perimeter wall and ran down into the valley of the Mokhovaya stream, protected from the wind by the slopes of the mountains and the forest.
We had to climb to the Takmak rock, which turned out to be not as easy as climbing the Chinese wall. The slope of the mountain is steeper here, the snow melted in places, then froze and turned into an ice crust. Small areas where it was required to climb the rocks were more difficult than expected due to the crust of ice that covered the rocks. But we, insuring each other, passed them without problems. After looking at the city from Takmak's height, we went to the top of the neighboring mountain, where the upper station of the ski cable car is located. Satisfied and tired, with a sense of accomplishment, we sprawled on the chairs of the cable car that took us down to the city.
2. Entrance to the reserve
3. Open pit with ice wall
4. Waiting
5. Climb to the Chinese wall
6. At the Chinese wall
7. At the Chinese wall
8. At Takmak's
9. At Takmak's
10. Trekking between the rocks of the Takmakov group. The Berkut rock in the background.
11. Rocks of the Takmakov group
12. Climbing the slope at Takmak
13. Passage between Takmak and the upper station of the cable car. In the background is Takmak.
14. Top view from the cable car
Hello!
I would like to tell you about the K1 chairlift, which is located in the Bobrovy Log fan park in Krasnoyarsk. There are two cable cars in Bobrovy Log, but K2 works in winter to lift skiers, and in summer it only works to climb to the Ziprider attraction. All the others ride K1 in the summer.
I have a special relationship with cable cars. I am terribly afraid of them, so I ride them more often than ordinary people. In Rosa Khutor I never made it to the top, at the penultimate change I had to wait for my people. I didn’t dare to ride there either. But in Krasnoyarsk the cable car is only open, so you have to go (
You can get to "Bobrovy Log" without a car by bus route 37. If you are driving, there is a parking lot. Then you buy a ticket at the box office and go to the cable car. The cost in July 2019 is ascent and descent - 280 rubles for an adult ticket and 170 for a child.
The entrance to the cable car looks like this:
Place of boarding, insert the ticket into the turnstile and it opens automatically:
And so we are going, I already wrote that I am afraid, so I am driving with my eyes closed)) Fortunately, the path is not long and it only lasts 10 minutes in one direction, which seems to me like an eternity:
At the top you are greeted with a message that you have taken a photo and you can pick it up, the cost of a small photo is 250 rubles. I can imagine my face twisted with horror, I didn't even look at this photo. The photo booth is located next to the "Vibram" bar:
So what to do at the top? There are several options. For example, stay in a bar and not go anywhere. But I don't think anyone is using this option. Moreover, there are excellent catering establishments downstairs.
If you face the "Vibram" there are two ways: to the right and to the left. First, we go right. There is an observation deck to the Stolby reserve. At the entrance to the path, there is a sign with tips for walking:
Then another sign, already with a warning:
And a little about "stolism":
And here is the observation deck itself, quite compact:
Why I will tell you so further. You can see a little bit of the Sparrow's rock:
Further from observation deck you can go to the Pillars. But this long route... You can come along the same path from Stolby, but you will not be allowed to the cable car without a ticket, you will have to go down on foot. I have never gone here, perhaps in the future I will decide:
We return back to the cable car station. Here, by the way, there is a hint of what to do with the routes and the time spent, only the fourth (yellow) route involves the participation of the cable car:
The target of my torment this time was the Takmak rock. We go left:
Here is a view of the city:
For comparison, from the same area, from the Torgashinsky ridge on July 7, 2019, the visibility was as follows:
And now our Krasnoyarsk is covered with smoke from forest fires that spread in the north of the region. The city is constantly in this haze, there are days when it is impossible to breathe and the visibility is even lower. Fires are not extinguished, since they are located in control zones (by the way, these zones are determined by the regional authorities). The cost of extinguishing fires in these zones is higher than the damage from fires, so they wait for it to rain on its own.
Rospotrebnadzor salutes us every day that there is no excess of harmful substances in the air. But on the AirVisual website, Krasnoyarsk consistently holds the 1st place in pollution in the world !:
This week the haze reached Novosibirsk, Omsk and Yekaterinburg. After that, they started talking about us at the federal level, but somehow sluggishly. Can you imagine what kind of territory these are Siberia, the Urals plus Transbaikalia is on fire. That is, half of the country is already suffocating, but no one is going to solve the problem. Created a petition, but the sense from it ...:
In general, we are waiting for the saving rain.
At first the road is quite comfortable, there are gazebos on the side, which are rented. There you can fry kebabs, celebrate some kind of event in nature:
At the end of this road, a view of Takmak opens, but first a steep descent awaits us:
We go into the gate on which the sign "No entry", on top of the fence is surrounded by barbed wire. Perhaps this is the border of the "Beaver Log". Let's look back, the path traveled:
The descent is small, but steep. My sneakers slipped, there is a lot of gravel. Back then went up much easier than went down
We go to the rock. on the way we try to admire the views:
When we come to Takmak there are options - go directly to the foot of the cliff, or you can first go around along a forest path. We made a detour. Not visible in the photo, but some trees are marked with blue paint so as not to stray from the route. But you need to stop in time, when you see that the end of the rock - wrap it up. The path with the marked trees goes straight ahead, I suppose to the Granite quarry - the entrance to Takmak not from the side of the cable car:
Not tall in appearance, but for rock climbing it is difficult said. They were able to climb it only 50 years after the conquest of the First Pillar.
There should be a great view here too:
There are boulders nearby, which are easy to climb, and beautiful photos are obtained there:
That's all, the trip is over. Let's go down. The roots of trees and stones form a kind of steps, I will not say that it is very easy to go down, but it is possible, especially not so high:
They returned back in the same way as they came. When we got to the lift it started to rain. And I was glad how we managed to get out of the mountains in time. If the road gets wet and slippery, going down / up will be incredibly difficult.
Little people go to Takmak. Mostly people get up, go to the lookout, sit in the bar and come back. And I did this several times. And in vain. I liked the walk to the cliff, it's a pity because of poor visibility I could not see all the beauty of our nature, but what I saw was more than enough. If you go up the cable car, do not be lazy, take a walk to Takmak.
Takmak rock located in nature reserve The pillars are visible from almost anywhere in Krasnoyarsk. This landscape has become one of the business cards cities. This is an excellent example of how the unique and beautiful Siberian nature complements and transforms a huge modern metropolis.
Takmak rock: history and legends
It is not known exactly when the rocks appeared at this place. Surely there is a scientific explanation for their education, but the locals prefer to believe in the mythical origin of Takmak. Perhaps that is why a huge number of legends are associated with it.
One of them says that many centuries ago the majestic Yenisei ruled in these parts. He had several daughters, but most of all he loved Bazaikha and Laletina. When the time came to marry them off, Yenisei decided to start with the eldest. Prince Takmak was called to marry Bazaikha. However, as always, love intervened. And the young handsome man dared to ask for the hand of not the eldest daughter, but the other, which he liked more, Laletina. Yenisei became angry and forever cut the love triangle, turning Takmak and his retinue into rocks, and his daughters into rivers flowing nearby. So they stayed forever three. And rocks and rivers bear their names to this day.
The question of the reliability of such an assumption is, of course, controversial. After all, the names could simply come from the long-forgotten Turkic language.
Conquering Takmak
Rock climbers became interested in Krasnoyarsk Pillars back in the 19th century. Mysterious and mysterious peaks have become the target of professionals and amateurs. Takmak was conquered only in 1899. For a long time, they were afraid to even approach him, among local residents this rock was considered sacred.
The first Russian climber Anastasia Kachalova was the first to step over prejudices.
Takmak these days
Today Takmak no longer inspires such horror and awe as in the 19th century. Anyone who has a certain level of physical fitness can repeat the feat of A. Kachalova. Under the guidance of experienced instructors, groups of brave and fearless tourists are constantly climbing Takmak. A wonderful view of the city and its surroundings opens from the top of the cliff. It is believed not better place in order to see Krasnoyarsk in all its glory.
In addition, there is a legend that everyone who climbs the Takmak rock will forever fall in love with Krasnoyarsk Pillars and come back here again and again to conquer new peaks.
Video about Takmak rock
