In the famous Chianti valley in Italy, we managed to come not in the most better weather... You can never trust the forecasts ... This summer does not please Italy at all with hot and sunny weather, it should be noted. At first, we were upset to see the sky in the clouds. But, gradually blurred landscapes of Tuscany, washed out by high humidity and periodically beginning rain, we were simply fascinated.
The views were like on the paintings of old masters! As if the bright colors of summer have slightly lost their brightness from time to time ...
I deliberately did not improve the brightness in photos with Photoshop.
The first breath of autumn is already being felt in Italy.
It comes at the end of October, but already at the end of August we saw slightly yellowed trees.
Endless vineyards with juicy bunches of almost ripe fruits and olive groves in the rolling Tuscan hills - this is the Chianti Valley.
The grapes were grown here by the ancient Etruscans.
Medieval castles and farm houses, which often house cozy hotels; small wineries where you can taste all of the above wines, as well as local sausages and cheeses - you can get stuck here for a long time.
In the Chianti Valley, the famous Classico Chianti wines are produced from Chianti grapes. And also wines Brunello di Montalcino and San Giovese from San Giovese grapes. The taste of wine differs significantly in different parts the Chianti Valley.
The Chianti Valley is located within the cities of Prato, Pistoia, and covers an area of \u200b\u200babout 90,000 hectares. We drove through the central part called Chianti Classico. In addition to the central part, there are several more areas in the Chianti Valley:
Chianti Montalbano is located near the town of Montalbano, north of Florence.
Rufina is located in the northeastern part of the valley.
Colline Fiorentini - South of the central part, in the Siena Hills.
Colline Aretine - east and southeast of the city of Arezzo.
Colline Pisane west of Chianti Classico, near Pisa.
Coline Montespertoli is located along the Montespertoli hills in the western part of the valley.
The Chianti symbol is the black rooster, which is featured on all wine bottles and numerous souvenirs. The rooster was raised to the rank of a symbol in the 13th century, when Siena and Florence were actively sorting out their relations over the borders of their territories. Then the black rooster of Florence sang before Siena, bringing victory to his city. (How easy territorial disputes were sometimes resolved in those days ...)
After such a "cock" victory, the city of Castellina and Gaiole united in the Military League of Chianti Classico and placed the image of the cock on their flag. Here we drove through the territory of this former league.
The classic Tuscan landscapes with cypress trees have never left anyone indifferent.
We stopped literally every kilometer to take a couple of shots.
The Chianti Valley has breathtaking heady fresh air.
In addition to vineyards, the Chianti Valley is famous for its olive groves and the olive oil produced here.
Sometimes cities and towns suddenly appeared among the vineyards. The capital of Chianti Classico is the city of Greve. Without exception, all graying in this area are called with the ending "in Chianti", so most often when communicating in the valley, this ending is omitted. seen from afar, it turned out to be quite large, in the central part there were some towers. We will definitely visit someday!
First impressions are always the strongest. The Chianti Valley of Italy in my memory will now forever remain in a shroud of rain.
The sun came out only once, showing what the valley looks like in bright light.
We will definitely come back here in sunny weather!
Chianti Classico is an area between Florence and Siena, which includes the settlements of Greve, Pandzano, Gaiole, Radda and Castellina.
Greve in Chianti
Greve in Chianti / Shutterstock.com
Our journey cannot but begin from Greve, the gateway to the Chianti region. This lively town is known for its quaint triangular square, where local farmers have been selling their goods since the Middle Ages. The square is framed by porticoes on all three sides, which provide shelter from the heat or rain while shopping. In the center stands the monument to Giovanni da Verazzano, the designer of New York Harbor. In a narrow part of the square is the medieval church of Santa Croce, which houses several masterpieces of ecclesiastical art, including the triptych Our Lady of the Saints by Bicci di Lorenzo.
In Grezzo, you can taste traditional Chianti products and wines. Under the porticoes you will find local artisan shops, wineries and restaurants. Don't miss the Falorni butcher's shop, which offers an assortment of local delicacies. A stone's throw from the square is the Wine Museum.
Panzzano in Chianti
Panzzano in Chianti / Shutterstock.com
The densely populated town of Pandzano is located a few kilometers from Greve. Since the 12th century, Pandzano has played an important role in the defense of Florence. Pandzano Castle was a strategic point during the wars between Florence and Siena. The traces of the castle are clearly visible in historic center... Nowadays, the center is dominated by the building of the Church of Santa Maria, founded in the 13th century, but significantly rebuilt in the 19th century in the neoclassical style. It is worth taking a stroll through the city center, which has preserved the atmosphere of the Middle Ages, and a glass of wine on central square... Here you will also find many restaurants and wineries where it is worth tasting local produce. Visit the old Cecchini butcher's shop, which sells the famous Florentine steak.
A little further is the Church of San Leolino, the first mention of which dates back to 982. Despite the Renaissance appearance (elegant stone portal and arched gallery), its interior has been preserved in its original form, typical of a Romanesque three-aisled basilica. Inside, you can admire the masterpieces of church art by local craftsmen.
Castellina in Chianti
Castellina in Chianti / Shutterstock.com
Moving further towards Siena, you will find yourself in Castellina in Chianti, a town so ancient that its origins are lost in the darkness of centuries. In any case, the tombs at Montecalvario testify to the fact that people lived here already in the time of the Etruscans. Geographical position at the intersection of the four districts of the Chianti region made the town an important from a military point of view, a strategic point between Siena and Florence. Since the period of medieval wars, the Rocca fortress, dominating over central part city, and a covered walkway (via delle Volta), crossing the city through and through. Its windows offer breathtaking views. Walking through the city, you will see many magnificent palazzo that belonged to noble Sienese and Florentine. Don't miss the Church of San Salvatore, rebuilt after the Second World War, which has a magnificent late 14th century fresco by an unknown Tuscan artist. Must visit Archaeological Museum Chianti Senese, where Etruscan finds from the excavations in Montecalvario are kept, to join ancient history of this land.
As in other points of the route, here you can taste local wines in one of the many wineries and taste the famous sausages and ham from local pork.
Radda in Chianti
Radda in Chianti / Shutterstock.com
Leaving Castellina along Via Chiantigina, you find yourself on the SR429 highway, which leads to Radda in Chianti, a town that has retained its medieval charm. The city center - a labyrinth of concentric streets - is still surrounded by an old wall. The architectural center of the city is the Palazzo di Podesta and the Romanesque church of San Niccolò. The captain of the Chianti League sat in the palazzo for four centuries, which is reminded by the numerous coats of arms on its facade. On the outskirts of the city, you will find the old Franciscan monastery of Santa Maria in Prato.
It is pleasant to wander through the alleys of the center, where the gaze now and then opens up magnificent views of the valley surrounding the city. A glass of wine with panino will help you regain your strength.
Near Radda is the ancient fortress town of Castello di Volpaya. The fortress was built of dark sandstone, which makes it different from other fortifications in the Chianti region. Although the wars between Florence and Siena have left their mark on him, the massive main tower and one of the smaller towers have survived to this day. Be sure to check out the former 14th-century church of the Commenda di San Efrosino, which now houses a winery. It is here that you should taste the famous local wines.
Gaiole in Chianti
Gaiole in Chianti / Shutterstock.com
Not far from Radda is the town of Gaiole in Chianti, founded during the Middle Ages. Due to its position halfway between Chianti and Valdarno, it became a trading platform where local feudal lords sold their products. In our time, Gaiole has not lost its importance, being an important tourist center... There are many agritourism hotels and restaurants, wineries and farms, whose owners will be happy to offer you their products and hospitality. In the vicinity of Gaiole, there are castles and fortresses, for example, Castello di Vertine, Castello di Meleto, Pieve di Spaltenna. Everywhere you can stop for the night and, of course, taste local products.
There are several places that you not only want to see, but also in which you definitely want to live, and not in a hotel, but necessarily in a house, and for the house to be old, the view from the window is wonderful. One of these places is Tuscany, more specifically - chianti valley... This region is strongly associated with Florence, Pisa, Siena, San Gimignano, beautiful cities, where the great architects of the Cinquecento and other eras created, but there is also another Tuscany - rural, farmer, where the main characters are vines, olive trees and an amazing, incomparable landscape. Hills, valleys ... and again hills and valleys, and so on to infinity, extending into the azure sky.
So, no overnight stays in Florence, just the Chianti valley and only apartments in a beautiful old house. We already had to book houses in Provence through the system http://airbnb.ru/ and http://www.homeaway.com/. I described this experience in detail in my article Our Home in Provence. But there was August, a super high season, and there were many problems, and we arrived in Tuscany at the beginning of April and, as our hostess said, were the second in this season to stay with her. So this time we just booked through www.booking.com without any problems. The only problem was the best choice, and, fortunately, no mistake happened - the farm turned out to be just great http://www.agriturismosanleo.it/.
According to the owner, the oldest buildings are more than 1000 years old. Now everything has been restored and adjusted to accommodate tourists. All apartments have their own entrance, a terrace with a table and chairs for fresh aireach has a kitchen with a stove, dishwasher and refrigerator. Inside there are one or more bedrooms, air-conditioned everywhere, but the decor retains the style and spirit of a farmhouse. There are only 9 apartments and they are designed for a different number of guests (from 2 to 6).
There is a swimming pool, but it was not open at the beginning of April. There are olive trees all around, some of them very old.
The farm specializes in the production of olive oil. The breakfast room has a winter garden and old olive processing equipment. You can book a guided tour, during which you will be shown the estate itself and the modern oil production (45 minutes, 10 euros per person). The hostess speaks English.
Breakfast is not included in the price, but you can order it separately. Sweet Italian will cost seven euros, but by paying another five euros, you will receive prosciutto, cheese, boiled eggs or scrambled eggs, olives. Everything is very high quality and there is a lot of everything, but the price of 12 euros for breakfast is somewhat annoying, given that there is a kitchen in the room, and the nearest supermarket is 5 km away.
The Internet is possible only in the option “under the door of the hostess’s office,” but maybe this is for the best.
Dinner is held on Saturdays at the farm. For 25 euros, you are offered a variety of snacks, chicken from our own poultry house and red house wine. But we took the appetizers, wine and a Florentine steak (Bistecca alla fiorentina) - a huge piece of beef (1 kg) for two. It turned out at 35 euros per person. Everything is very tasty and very home-like.
Bottom line: Everything is just great! In Tuscany, you have to live this way - closer to nature. The only thing you need to be prepared for is that there are very winding and narrow roads, constant ascents and descents, for those who feel sick to come to the Chianti Valley, I would advise with a supply of anti-swinging means.
If you want to go on a trip to Europe that I am organizing, see the current offers for joining groups on my website www.dmitrysokolov.ru
Dmitry Sokolov
- Unusual travels to Europe http://www.sokolovcz.ru/
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- My travel blog
Siena (Siena) -Chiantigiana (Chiantijana) -Firenze (Florence) -70 km + 0 euro
It's time to say goodbye to Siena. We never saw our Dionisio again. They left him a farewell note of thanks and keys on the table. The door was slammed.
Further our path lay in Florence, but not along the highway, but along one of the most beautiful roads Chiantijana... On the map it has №222
... The plans were on the way to visit a couple of towns and, of course, wineries fattorie and buy a real Chianti Gallo Nero.
It makes no sense to talk about the beauty of this road. Some sources write that this is the most beautiful roadat least in Italy and even Europe. I'm not ready to agree with this, there are more beautiful ones. But the fact that she has a unique charm is undeniable.
After about 26 km from Siena, we drove into a picturesque town Castellina-in-Chianti... Walked along the covered walkway Via delle Volte... It is small but charming, with a lot of museums, designer shops and leather shops.
From the crossing we went to the city center. 
There is a magnificent restored castle in the center of the city. Renovated so much that its antiquity is not felt. 
Local wine and olive oil is sold on every corner, for example Bottega del Vino Gallo Nero (Via della Roca 10).
But we decided not to buy anything in the cities, we wanted maximum approximation to the natural, that is, they decided to call in some farm. There were a lot of signs along the way "VenditaDiretta "(direct sales). We turned on one of these. For a long time we drove along a terribly dusty country road among the fields and already doubted that we would meet at least some kind of civilization. And, finally, we unexpectedly arrived at some small village and a rather pleasant building, where we understood the farm's sales department Santo Stefano. We were greeted by a friendly young girl and a man. They told about their wine, gave everything to taste, including olive oil, for which they served slices of delicious bread. 
We, of course, gladly bought both Chianti and white wine and oil. By the way, the Russians have not yet wandered over to them. It is said that mainly French, British and German people come.
Then we stopped at Greve-in-Chianti... A wine festival is held here. Somehow the town was not impressed and we drove on to the castle Verrazzano (Castello di Verrazzanj), which is 4 km from Greve in Chianti. The castle also sells local wines and olive oil. You can get to the castle itself only with a guided tour and at a certain time. We photographed him from behind the bars, wandered around the area and admired the magnificent views of the Tuscan hills. 
Not arriving Strada-in-Chianti there is also a castle Castello di Mugnana, the best-preserved medieval castle, around which there are also a lot of fattorie, but we did not go there, but turned into another farm Tenuta Poggio ai Mandorli.
Our aunt met us, took us to the cellar, listed the wines and offered to try one of our choice, and it was impossible to try expensive wines (more than 10 euros). We were surprised at this arrangement, but since we were not going to go anywhere else, we bought a couple of bottles from her. But among themselves they called her a greedy aunt. Apparently, the proximity to Florence affected, and she was not at all surprised to Russian visitors, she says that they often stop by. That's where the dog is buried! Probably tasted well at her place.
From this farm we went straight to Florence. I must say that on this day, despite the small mileage, we were completely out of the time schedule and arrived in Florence in the evening, closer to 5 pm.
We immediately stopped at piazzale michelangelo, which offers a beautiful view of the city with the huge Duomo and the Palazzo Vecchio tower, the Arno River with a series of bridges, including the Ponte Vecchio. 
The square has a huge free parking lot for vehicles, a lot of cars. And it was still very hot 41 degrees! In an open area on a hill, it is unbearable heat. 
Time was approaching evening, it was necessary to move in. We booked a hotel « Hotel City»(Via Sant" Antonio, 18), which is located in a very convenient location, near the railway station, Medici Chapel, a few steps from the Duomo. Reviews of the hotel were excellent, which was confirmed in reality. A cozy home room of two rooms, with air conditioning, windows overlooking a quiet courtyard, an excellent bathroom with everything you need, a good breakfast and wonderful staff cost us 185 euros per night + 3 euros / person tourist tax. Parking is paid, the hotel has its own parking spaces at the station, it costs 25 euros / day, you can leave and call in as many times as you like. This is normal for the center of Florence during peak season. And for us, exhausted by the Siena Palio, everything seemed like paradise.
But the hotel had to be reached. It was complicated. We got to ZTL all the time. Circled, circled, spat and drove into the area, parked near the hotel. But it turned out everything is fine. We were brought to some base and told that since we live here, we will not get fines. And so it turned out later.
Hastily settled down and went for a walk. Since Katya and Victor had already been to Florence during the day, we ran away each in our own direction.
First I went to Church of Santa Maria Novella which was designed and built by the Dominican monks. Fully work on the construction of the church ended in the second half of the XIV century. The marble façade of the church, designed by Leon Battista Alberti, dates from 1456-1470.
The most interesting detail in the interior of the church is the pylons in the form of a bunch of columns, on which the pointed arched vaults rest. The church of Santa Maria Novella contains a large number of works of Florentine art of the 14th – 16th centuries by Vasari, Ghirlandaio, Brunelleschi, Giuliano da Sangallo, Ghiberti and other masters. 
From this church I went to the Duomo - Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore (Cattedrale di Maria del Fiore).
I immediately bought a ticket to Baptistery of John the Baptist (Battistero di San Giovanni) for 5 euros to see the famous dome of the Byzantine mosaics of the 13th century and the equally famous doors, the panels of which were created by Andrea Pisano and Lorenzo Ghiberti according to biblical subjects. 
After that I went for a walk. How can you describe your feelings as a result of the walk? And I had a feeling of confusion. I wandered through the streets and realized that I was confused and ... depressed. For the first time, the city did not let me into its soul. As if the city has its own protective shell, and I am outside it. I sat down on the steps of a building and wanted to cry, or even better, home. I went through a couple more steps and met with Katya and Victor. We walked until dark, but the feeling that you were a stranger did not disappear. Katya gave Florence a good definition: Florence is a lump. 
The next day for 12 days we bought tickets to the Uffizi Gallery. We bought it in advance through the website for 11 euros + 4 euros for a reservation. Therefore, in the morning I had to climb onto the dome of the Duomo, visit the Duomo itself, then pack up, load things into the car and run to the gallery.
In the morning the streets were still deserted, but there was already a long line at the entrance to the dome, which was moving fast enough. The ticket cost 8 euros. 
In order to enter the cathedral itself, you need to go down from the dome, go outside and stand in line again. You don't need to be afraid of the queue, it moves quickly. The entrance is free.
The dimensions of the Duomo are amazing: 153 meters long and 90 meters wide. Today Santa Maria del Fiori is the fourth largest cathedral in the world, second only to St. Peter's in the Vatican, St. Paul's in London and the Duomo of Milan.
The Cathedral has a museum that stores two priceless paintings - "Lamentation of Christ" by Michelangelo and "Mary Magdalene" by Donatello.
Despite the huge number of people in the cathedral, I still got great pleasure and examined it with interest. 
We quickly checked out of the hotel and walked to the Uffizi Gallery. Walking through Via De 'Tornabuoni, we looked into the church, which is located at the intersection with the street Via degli Agli... We noticed this church from the evening, but it was closed. Why she attracted our attention, I do not know, she did not differ in anything remarkable outwardly. Moreover, guidebooks bypass it and tourist maps it is at best marked with just an untitled cross. So we entered it without knowing the name. Now I already know what it is church of Saints Michael and Gaetano (Chiesa dei Santi Michele e Gaetano)... Church of the 16th century. We were struck by the interior decoration with the use of magnificent textiles, as it turned out from the 18th century.
I highly recommend visiting it. It was only here that I felt that Florence had slightly opened its door to me. 
There was a huge queue to the gallery, as had been warned. But for those who have paid for tickets, there is a separate entrance, completely out of line. We spent 3 hours in the gallery. Among the treasures kept in the Uffizi Gallery are masterpieces by Giotto, Caravaggio, Titian, Leonardo da Vinci, Rubens, Perugdio. Only in this Florentine museum you can see Michelangelo's famous work depicting the Holy Family, as well as works by Raphael, The Adoration of the Magi by Gentile da Fabiano, The Birth of Venus and Spring by Botticelli. The best works of the greatest masters of the Renaissance - this is what the Uffizi Gallery is today. We saw all this, trying with all our might not to fall into a stupor from culture shock.
Gallery windows also open beautiful views to the Arno River and the Ponte Vecchio, there are places to stay. 
So the first acquaintance with Florence ended. I came to the conclusion that Florence is one of the cities that must be viewed from the inside, where there is interesting architecture, but the main treasures are inside museums, cathedrals, galleries.
If you were asked to drive along the Chianti wine road in search of a "drunk road", would you agree? So I had no reason to deny myself such an adventure. So what is behind such beautiful description and what is this road famous for?
2. "Drunk Road" - business card Tuscany, the valley of Orci and the city of Montichiello to which it leads. An asphalt belt lined with cypress trees descending from the most picturesque hills is included in the UNESCO heritage. Her images are adorned with magnets, spoons, postcards, stamps. Locals even sometimes they pray for her. As a guide, I'll post a postcard. That's what we went for.
3. Traveling in Tuscany was given with great difficulty. Leaving Florence, we turned onto the Chianti wine road and headed for miracles. It would seem, what's so difficult? Go, you just have to go.
4. But the trouble is that the landscapes of Tuscany are madly beautiful. And instead of the road, you want to look around, the speed drops to a minimum, cars honk from behind, you trudge like a stoned drug addict. In 30 minutes I traveled only 20 kilometers, took a hundred photographs and began to understand that we might not be in time on time. But I just didn't want to go further. I could stop at every bush, stone, vineyard
5. The closer we got to the Val d'Orcia valley, the more difficult it was to press the gas. I could not stand it, turned on the emergency gang, pressed to the side of the road and took pictures, fotkal, fotkal.
6. People in love with landscapes, romantic natures simply cannot be allowed into Tuscany. There is a chance that the psyche will be disturbed, and they will not want to return to their native country.
7. At a certain moment, a thought came to me, but surrendered to me at all " drunk road"? You can stay here. Enjoy the views, uncork a bottle of white dry and learn Zen."
8. There are no problems with bottles. There are local shops along the road and you can buy quality, homemade, Tuscan wine. How difficult it is to go further!
9. If you are an expert in wine, cities such as Montalcino and Montepulciano will echo in your ears, your hands will reach for the glass and your lips will whisper I want.
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10. Eh, it's not for nothing that this path is called the wine road, because 80% of the territory of Tuscany is covered with vineyards, and local wineries have received world fame and gold medals from all kinds of competitions of this noble drink.
11. Have I already said that it is very difficult to go and not stop?
12. During the Renaissance, pupils of the Sienese art school honed their skills in the local natural landscapes. The paintings still reflect the beauty of Tuscany. How is it possible not to become an artist, poet or winemaker here?
13. I couldn't stand it. I left the car and ran into the fields.
14. If there are beautiful landscapes, delicious wine, then you can live here. We must pay tribute to the Italians, not to spoil the beauty of these places, and even to embellish the art. Coming soon about a couple of local towns. They deserve a separate story.
15. Almost arrived. Just a little bit left. Here she is already drunk dear, only a view from above. Did you go in vain?
16. But first, a couple of landscapes.
17. Almost finished postcard or magnet. I'm thinking of ordering for friends and giving it as a present. It's a good idea to donate self-made magnets with your photographs. Or I will collect a collection and give it to New Year all the calendar.
18. No wonder I went. Oh, not in vain. I denied myself a Vino, swallowed saliva, hurried at bus stops. Not in vain.
