Derbent (from Pers. دربند Darband - "Closed (connected) gates", Azerb. Dərbənd, Lezg. Kvevar, Avar. Derbend, Gor. Heb. Derbend, tab. - Shagyur, Tsur, Tsalli, darg. Chulli (kite .), Chyali (obs.) - "fence, wall", rut. Derbend, Laksk. Darbant, Churul - "stone") - a city in Dagestan on a narrow passage between the Caspian Sea and the foothills of the Caucasus.
Derbent is considered one of the most ancient "living" cities in the world. The first settlements appeared here in the Early Bronze Age - at the end of the 4th millennium BC. e. The first mention of the Caspian Gate - the most ancient name for Derbent - dates back to the 6th century. BC e., it is cited by the famous ancient Greek geographer Hecateus of Miletus.
The caravans of the Great Silk Road went through Derbent, and at the same time the city was an important and convenient port. Its military significance can hardly be overestimated: from here the campaigns of the conquerors rushed both to the north (Mongols, Seljuk Turks) and to the south (from the Scythians and Khazars to the expeditionary forces of the Russian Empire).
The modern city was founded in 438 AD. e. as a Persian fortress, consisting of a citadel (Naryn-Kala) located on a hill and two stone walls extending from it to the sea, which blocked a narrow (3 km) passage between the sea and the Caucasus mountains and fenced off the territory of the city from the north and south.
Since 2003, the citadel "Naryn-Kala", the Old City and the fortifications of Derbent have been included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.
While driving to Derbent, we met one more attraction of Dagestan.
Pushkin-Tau (Izbergtau) is a mountain located in the Republic of Dagestan, in the vicinity of the city of Izberbash.
It is located at an altitude of 220 meters above sea level.
Pushkin-Tau is a combination of many rocks that go over each other, and only from one specific place is the profile of the great poet A.S. Pushkin clearly visible.
The face on Mount Pushkin-Tau has been known since ancient times and served as a reference point for ships sailing from the north. And in the last century, people were surprised to notice that he looks like Pushkin. And the mountain became widely known. In 1978, according to the decree of the Council of Ministers of the Autonomous Republic, the rock was recognized as a natural monument of regional significance.
There are many legends about the occurrence of this "miracle" in Dagestan, but the most widespread is that when Pushkin was shot by Dantes, an earthquake occurred in Dagestan, and the broken part of the rock created Pushkin's profile. This remained a legend, since there was no evidence of an earthquake at that time.
We made a short stop to watch how a gate is made in one of the villages of Dagestan 
For generations, gates have been made. Agree, very high quality work. 
An hour later, we reached our destination. The majestic fortress Naryn-Kala, which I dreamed of visiting ..
Before her, both time and people were powerless. Like many centuries ago, Naryn-Kala stands on a high hill and guards the ancient city. The height of its walls reaches 30 meters. The powerful fortress towers rise even higher. The walls and towers of the fortress are made of rectangular blocks carefully fitted to each other, giving Naryn-Kala a formidable and ceremonial appearance at the same time. 
Bullet marks are visible on the walls. 
As well as in a place where there is a landmark, you can buy various souvenirs. Prices, by the way, are quite inexpensive. This album with black and white photographs of Derbent costs only 100 rubles. 
So we came to the entrance.
Naryn-Kala is an ancient, pre-Arab fortress in the mountainous part of Derbent, connected to the Caspian Sea by double walls designed to block the so-called Caspian gate to the Persian state.
The irregularly shaped fortress covers an area of \u200b\u200b4.5 hectares. Its walls (approximately 180 meters wide and 280 meters long) are reinforced with small towers (at a distance of 20-30 meters from each other). In the southwestern corner of the fortress there is a large square tower, which serves as a link between the fortress and the defensive wall. The steep slopes of the mountain provide additional protection from three sides.
Baths, water reservoirs and ruined buildings, in which one can assume deep antiquity, have been preserved inside the fortress. These include a cross-domed church of the 5th century, later rebuilt into a temple of fire worshipers and a mosque. 
Detailed diagram of the citadel. You won't be able to get lost here :) 
As I said above, the prices for tourists are very reasonable to look at this beautiful ancient monument. By the way, there was a wonderful guide with us :) 
The first thing that rushes at the entrance to the fortress is a spring with clean water. The autonomous water supply system of the Naryn-Kala citadel deserves special attention. It represents huge stone reservoirs, into which water from mountain springs entered through underground channels. Thanks to such a successful technical solution, the garrison and the inhabitants of the impregnable fortress could withstand a long siege without any problems. 
Tombstones 
"Secret Gate". Among the people, these gates were also called the "Gate of Shame", since the rulers of the city, at the moment of danger for themselves, left through these gates, leaving the defenders alone against the enemy. The gates are flanked from the outside by two rectangular projections, extending up to 8 meters, reinforced with inclined retaining walls, which form a narrow passage up to three meters when approaching the gate. 
Khan's bath. An architectural monument, presumably built in the 16th - 17th centuries, the khan's bathhouse is located in the northwestern part of the Naryn-kala fortress in Derbent. The monument is a one-story semi-underground structure located on the relief. The only eastern façade of the bath, not hidden by soil, faces the khan's palace. There is a legend, when women swam in the bathhouse and a man at least once looked in the direction of the bathhouse, they gouged out one eye, if a woman looked towards the bathhouse when the men were swimming, both eyes were gouged out. 
The walls of Naryn-Kala go not only towards the sea but also 40 km towards the mountains to the Tabasaran region. 
At the northern wall of the citadel, behind the khan's palace, there is a structure called "Zindan" (underground prison). Legends and traditions tell about the horrors of this gloomy building, nicknamed in the city "Gedyan gyalmyaz" ("he who enters will not return"). Experts believe that this is one of the ancient underground reservoirs, later adapted as a prison. 
Rectangular reservoir. The type of architectural structure is extremely widespread in the hot arid regions of the country. 
Several ancient stone anchors with holes for chains or ropes dumped in the courtyard of the Naryn-Kala fortress. They were found in the sea near Derbent. Scientists date them to the first millennium BC. Most likely, the anchors belonged to the Median or ancient Persian ships. 
These are the "defensive" windows in the fortress, through which the city is clearly visible. 
An Arab historian of the 10th century described that two columns and a sculpture of a lion, a figure of a man with a fox between his legs and two stones depicting lionesses were installed above the gate. The stone lions and part of one of the columns have survived, so the gate as a whole looks the same as it did twelve centuries ago. Near one of the towers of the northern wall there is a mysterious passage "Doomsday Gate". In the 10th century, it was founded from the side of the city, so a small room was formed, fenced from the outside and decorated with carved pillars. In 2004, archaeologists established that more than a thousand years ago, this place was considered an exit to the other world. 
A visit to the Museum "Ancient Derbent" impressed with the number of exhibits, so there will also be a separate post about it :)
Text materials from the guide to the Naryn-Kala fortress.
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Organizers of the blog tour: Association of Journalists of the North Caucasus and OJSC "Resorts of the North Caucasus" with the support of the office of the plenipotentiary representative of the President of the Russian Federation in the North Caucasus Federal District
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Naryn-Kala is a famous ancient Derbent fortress, which turned the city into a “Closed Gate”. Its double walls, which sloped down to the Caspian itself, allowed full control of the narrow coastal passage from the sea to the south, to Persia. On three sides, the fortress was defended by steep mountain cliffs, and towers were built in the walls at a distance of about 25 m from each other. Naryn-Kala, together with the wall of Dag-Bary, today remains one of the largest defensive structures in the world and is included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.
The monumental building of Dag-Bara, 42 km long, stretched through groves and hills and went into the mountains, it was impossible to get around it.
The territory of the fortress was about 4.5 hectares. Inside, there were structures necessary to withstand a siege: in particular, a voluminous tank for drinking water (6th century), mostly going underground. In the event of a siege, the defenders could have enough water for six months. True, the fortress was never considered "unconquerable": several times it fell under the onslaught of the besiegers. The western gates of Naryn-Kala were called the “Gates of Shame”: dishonorable commanders fled from the fortress through them when luck turned away from the defenders.
The Russians took the fortress in 1796, during the war with Persia.
In addition, several even more interesting and older ruins can be found here. For example, the remains of a Christian church of the 4th century, which was then converted into a Zoroastrian sanctuary, and then into a mosque. This church is considered the first Christian temple in the country. The ruins of the Khan's palace of the 18th century are also worth seeing. Also here are the khan's baths and the khan's office of the 18th century, which is now occupied by the Museum "Ancient Derbent". And also - the building of the guardhouse built in 1828, where an art gallery with an exhibition dedicated to the history of the city was opened.
Of the building materials that went to Naryn-Kala and Dag-Bary, seven pyramids of Cheops can be erected.
The fortress is also considered absolutely must-see because of the stunning view of the city and its surroundings, which opens from here.
The Dag-Bara wall was originally built around the 6th century. and in some sources it was called the "Great Caucasian Wall" - which is understandable and corresponds to the truth. A monumental structure 42 km long stretched through groves and hills and went into the mountains, it was impossible to get around it. The wall was made of shell rock, and forts with turrets were built along its entire length. The wall, like its Chinese friend, saved the inhabitants of Western Asia from the raids of nomadic tribes, but already in the Middle Ages it lost its significance. Less than a third of the original structure has survived today.
Now Naryn-Kala is a part of the Derbent State Historical, Architectural and Art Museum-Reserve.
Practical information
The fortress is located in the western part of the city and is clearly visible from afar. You can climb to it along a long staircase on foot or drive up to the main gate by car (public transport does not go here).
The prices on the page are for December 2019.
Where do you think this fortress is? In which country?
And this is Russia. Let me tell you more about it ...
Photo 2. 
The most interesting, truly unique and unlike any known surviving system of city fortifications, of course, is the fortress complex of Derbent itself. The main part of the fortification system is the Naryn-Kala citadel (one of the versions of the translation of this name into Russian is “The Sun Fortress”), built on a high spur of the Dzhalgan ridge in the 6th century. Powerful three-meter-thick walls, limiting an area of \u200b\u200b4.5 hectares, are made up of two rows of well-worked stone blocks filled with torn stone and lime mortar. The parallel walls of the city, the northern one of an earlier construction, and the southern one, erected later, have the same structure. Both walls have numerous towers. Once these walls extended far out to sea, preventing the city from going around in shallow waters and creating a comfortable and well-protected harbor.
Photo 3. 
An interesting monument, an expressive evidence of the antiquity of the city, is located in the northwestern part of the Naryn-Kala citadel. This underground structure, cruciform in plan and covered with cross vaults, was considered for a long time to be a reservoir carved into the rock. However, a careful archaeological study allowed the researchers to establish that in front of them is a cross-domed Christian church, built on the ground in the 5th century, and then buried by powerful millennial cultural layers. According to historians, Derbent until the middle of the 6th century. was the Christian center of the Caucasus.
There are several gates in the southern and northern city walls, of which the most interesting and most architecturally elaborated are the gates of the southern wall - Orta-kala (Middle Gate). Over the centuries, the walls, towers and gates have been repaired several times. The architectural details in the processing of the tops of the walls and towers and gate openings reflect different periods in the development of architecture and the art of building.
Photo 4. 
An important place among the sights of the city is occupied by facilities for the storage and use of water, which was almost of primary importance for any fortress city. The water coming from the springs on the slope of Mount Dzhalgan, through the numerous stone and ceramic water conduits discovered during excavations, was directed to several underground reservoirs, including an old Christian temple adapted for this purpose. Several ancient fountains have also survived in Derbent, from which residents take water to this day, in particular - Khaibulakh (Khan's spring), Dgiarchi-bulakh (Messenger's source) and others.
The old baths preserved in the city are also interesting. One of them is in the central elevated part of the citadel. This is an underground structure with a vaulted dome structure of the 17th century, with several rooms for cold and hot compartments and undressing, with tanks for cold and hot water.
A beautiful view of the city opens from the height of the citadel. Among the flat roofs, as if cut through by cracks of crooked streets, there are the domes of mosques, which are quite numerous in the city. They are reminiscent of the times of Arab rule. The largest, most beautiful and ancient of the mosques is Juma (VIII century).
Photo 5. 
The citadel also clearly shows the vast ancient Derbent cemeteries with numerous stone steles and sarcophagi of the 5th-9th centuries, marking the burial places of many brave defenders of the fortress, who died at different times.
In the southwestern corner of the fortress wall of the citadel there is a rectangular opening leading to the corner tower, through which there was once an entrance to the Mountain wall (Dag-bars), which began just from this tower. At present, only small sections of this wall have survived, but their study showed that it was a grandiose structure 3 meters thick and 10 meters high, with numerous fortified forts, half-forts and rectangular towers. This powerful line of defense, meandering over the continuous mountainous terrain, extended more than 40 kilometers into the depths of the Caucasus.
Photo 6. 
Derbent fortifications are made of large blocks of local shell rock. Two rows of stone slabs form the outer facing of the wall, the space between which is filled with a backfill on lime mortar. The outer cladding blocks fit very well together and are folded without mortar. This gives them not only elegance and monumentality, but also affects the mind of the beholder with its inviolability and inaccessibility. For a strong connection of the facing blocks with the body of the wall in the masonry, plates are alternated, laid with a spoon (wide wall outward) and poking (outward with a narrow side - butt), the inner plane of which is left untreated, while the outer surface is well hewn. The size of the blocks is quite standard and averages up to 1 meter in length, 0.7-0.8 m in width and 0.25-0.3 m in thickness, and does not correspond in any way to the somewhat exaggerated reports of some Arab authors.
Photo 7. 
So, according to Yakubi, “... it (ie the wall) was built from square hewn stones. One of these stones will not be lifted by 50 people. These stones are stacked one on top of the other and sewn together with iron bolts. " Other Arab authors, including such authoritative authors as al-Istakhri, Masudi, al-Garnati, Ibn al-Fakih, Abdul-Abbas Tuz and others, also report on the fastening of wall stones with the help of lead, iron brackets and iron bolts. Probably, here we are talking about the construction of fortifications without binding mortars, which was widespread in those days, about which al-Sabi reports in detail. Two recesses were made in the stone, into which metal rods were inserted and filled with lead. Such a stone block was installed on another, in which the hollowed out recesses were also filled with molten lead. The stone blocks fastened in this way constituted a solid structure. The thickness of the walls of the fortifications ranges from 2.3 to 3.8 m, although some authors report a significant thickness of the city walls. In Yakubi, for example, we read: "... The width of the wall ... is such that 20 riders (in a row) will ride along it without crowding." Adam Olearius, talking about the Derbent walls, wrote that "... they could be ridden by a cart." Some Arab writers report 300 cubits wide walls. However, this figure follows, according to Academician V.V. Barthold, is more likely to be attributed to the gap between the two city walls than to their width.
Photo 8. 
The preserved height of the walls reaches 10-12 meters, and in some places - 15-18 meters. The fortifications have been rebuilt and restored many times. Experts distinguish up to ten sharply different types of their masonry, belonging to different periods and associated with different construction schools. The surviving ancient masonry represents huge non-standard blocks hewn to each other on the spot. The masonry of the later periods is distinguished by a more strict geometry of the blocks, the standard height of the rows, the horizontal seams, the size and processing of the blocks. Architectural details, carved inserts, etc. appear. In the later masonry, numerous attempts to imitate the most ancient masonry are also noticed.
Photo 9. 
In numerous written sources, the city is mentioned under various names, sometimes the name of the area is identified with the name of the city. On the maps of Claudius Ptolemy (II century BC), the city of Gelda (Jelda) is marked in this area. Byzantine sources call it "fortification Tzor" (Tzur, Tzur), Albanian gate, Choga gate, Choga principality, the great city Choga, Syrian - Caspian gate, Toraye gate, Arab - Bab el-Abwab (main gate, gate gate), Bab el-Hadid (iron gates), Bab Alban (Albanian gates), Sed Alban (Albanian walls), and sometimes just al-Bab (gates). Turkish authors call Temir kapis or Temir kapy (iron gates); Georgian - Dzgvis kari (sea gate), Daruband; Armenian - Jora, Jora's gate, Pahak (security) Jora, Pakhak walls, Chora border fortress, Huns' gates, Zuar gates, Khonsky gates, Khonsky fortress; Russians - Iron Gates, Derben.
Photo 10. 
In historical chronicles and folklore of local peoples, the city is mentioned under the name Chulli (darg.), Churul (lacquer). In addition, in some sources, the city is named as-Sul (wall), Tamur-kagalga, the city of the Chorsky passage, the Great Stronghold, Jol, Sed Yajuj-Majuj, the Chora fortress, the city at the Chora gate, the Northern Gate, Derbent Gate, etc. ...
The modern name of the city "Derbent" (Darband) appears in written sources since the 7th century, and means, translated from Persian, "Locked Gate", "Locked Gate".
The beautiful mountainous country of Dagestan is praised by many poets, writers and artists. Its unforgettable landscapes, peculiar way of life, wonderful carpets, jewelry, ceramics and other products of its masters, who speak dozens of different languages, have always been perceived with admiration and surprise by everyone who at least a little got acquainted with this country.
Photo 11. 
Of course, the city of Derbent, the most ancient city in Dagestan and the whole of Russia, makes a very strong impression on every traveler. It is much older in age than our country itself, it is more ancient than the "eternal city" of Rome and already existed in the world, when there were no modern states on the maps. Derbent is 5000 years old.
“The city is located on the western coast of the Caspian Sea, where the Caucasus mountains come close to the coast, leaving only a narrow strip of coastal plain about three kilometers wide. Here in ancient times the famous Caspian route ran - the only convenient road from the steppes of Southeast Europe to the Middle East. On this way, in one of its most strategically important and geographically convenient places, the first settlement arose on the site of today's Derbent. "
It was in this place that the rich and flourishing agricultural peoples of the Near and Middle East were “fenced off” by powerful fortifications from the devastating raids of nomadic tribes from the steppes of Southeastern Europe.
The idea of \u200b\u200bblocking a large piece of land from the sea to high mountains with a giant wall would seem fantastic if this wall had not stood in front of us with our own eyes. At the same time, the idea of \u200b\u200bmaking two such walls, arranging a transverse “city-corridor” between them, is no less original, and it has been implemented. Finally, the Mountain Wall extending from the fortress far to the west into the Caucasus Mountains, although it cannot be considered an exceptional invention, is quite comparable in value to the Great Wall of China, although of a shorter length and, unfortunately, worse preserved.
Photo 12. 
At different times, numerous peoples gave the city different names (there are more than twenty of them), but they are all associated with the word "gate". The name "Derbent" is Persian, dating back to the 6th century AD. e. and literally means "Gate Knot" or "Gate Lock". The Russians called this city "Derben" or "Iron Gates".
A detailed description of the amazing city was left by many admired observers of different centuries, including the exiled Decembrist writer A.A. Bestuzhev-Marlinsky. The city reminded him of "a huge boa constrictor, which under the scales of houses stretched out from the mountain in the sun and raised its scalloped head by the fortress of Naryn, and plays with its tail in the Caspian Sea."
The strongest masonry of the fortress walls and towers, which has withstood more than one assault over the millennia, has been well preserved, with few exceptions, to this day, which gives today's traveler a unique opportunity to mentally talk with contemporaries of long-lost tribes and peoples.
Photo 13. 
Spring in the fortress
Based on reliable sources and research of the ancient fortifications of Derbent that have survived to this day, it was concluded that the city was founded in the VI century AD. e. Persian kings of the Sassanid dynasty, and the "father of the city" was considered the famous king Khosrov I Anushirvan, who for the first time fenced off in this place with powerful walls from the attacks of the Khazars from the north. Thus, it was assumed that the age of the city is quite a respectable number - almost 1500 years.
But relatively recently, in 1971, archaeological excavations that began in Derbent have yielded truly sensational results, indicating that these places have seen much more ancient times.
Excavations have revealed an ancient settlement that arose at the turn of the IV-III millennia BC, that is, five thousand years ago! On the territory of the now existing citadel, the remains of buildings, numerous objects of labor and everyday life, agricultural tools and granaries were found, indicating the existence of one of the oldest agricultural farms here, characteristic of the then Near and Middle East and Southeast Europe. The ancient fortifications with traces of fires and destruction found as a result of archaeological excavations, as well as bronze arrowheads of Scythian arrows, confirm that when the Scythians in the VIII-VII centuries. BC e. made their trip to the Middle East, they already had to storm the well-fortified fortress of Derbent. Excavations have discovered that appeared here at the turn of the VIII-VII centuries. BC e. a powerful fortress with walls made of large rubble stone, which existed with restructuring and repairs until the arrival of the Sassanids. Citadel of Naryn-Kala VI century AD e. was built on the remains of ancient masonry.
Photo 14. 
In the III-I centuries BC. e. on the territory of present-day Azerbaijan and southern Dagestan, the state of Caucasian Albania arose, which then included Derbent. The I-III centuries AD were the heyday of Derbent, as evidenced by the large number of imported products and ornaments from Syria, India and Egypt found in the burial grounds of that time. Well-processed carved stone, clay mortar, and alabaster were used in the construction. The appearance of square fortress towers testified to the further development of the art of fortification.
In the middle of the III century. n. e. Derbent was captured by the Persian king Shapur I, who "wrought destruction and conflagration." However, the city finally fell under the rule of the Persians only in the 4th century. n. e., and a new, most important stage in the construction of the most powerful fortifications began under Khosrov I Anushirvan (531-579).
“The construction of the Derbent complex was carried out in stages: first, the citadel and the northern wall of the city, then the southern wall, and later - the Mountain wall (Dag-Bary). In the 6th century, the first transverse wall was also erected, separating the inhabited part of Derbent near the citadel from the uninhabited seaside one (two other transverse walls appeared in the 10th-18th centuries) ”. The intensive construction of fortifications of Derbent took place in an atmosphere of constant instability caused by the appearance at the end of the 4th century. n. e. "Kingdom of the Huns", and then the Khazar Kaganate.
Photo 15. 
In the 6th-7th centuries Derbent turned into a developed medieval city, which, in addition to its military and defensive significance, had a fairly high level of socio-economic development.
The warlike tribes of Arabs rallied thanks to Islam created a powerful united state - the Arab Caliphate, which eventually defeated the Persian Sassanid state. The Arabs immediately began the struggle for the capture of Derbent and at the beginning of the VIII century. finally won it back from the Khazars. The famous Arab commander Maslam bin Abd-Al-Melik, the closest relative of the Arab caliphs, was called by historians the "second father" of Derbent for his fruitful construction activities
Photo 16. 
By the way, I already told you about
In this article, let's talk about the Naryn-Kala fortress. Few know about it, but this pre-Arab citadel really deserves attention. We will look at its history, and also talk about the current state of the structure. In addition, the Naryn-Kala fortress is an excellent tourist place where you can plunge into the historical, ancient atmosphere.
It must be said that the ancestors of the builders of the Great Wall of China look with envy at the Derbent citadel, because its age is more than 2 thousand years. At the same time, new archaeological research gives the right to think that the age of the Naryn-Kala fortress may turn out to be even greater. Earlier, the main function of the building was that it protected a large section of the Great Silk Road, that is, it was an outpost. At the moment, the role of the building is peaceful: it is a museum, where interesting events are often held.
Fortress in the defense system
The citadel is part of the Derbent fortress. It, in turn, is connected to the Caspian Sea by means of double walls that block the Caspian gateway to the Persian state. Of course, the fortress performed such a function earlier, but now it is a worthy architectural monument.
Derbent itself, ironically, was located in a rather vulnerable place from a strategic point of view. It was located near the Caspian Pass, where the Greater Caucasus Mountains are closest to the sea. Only a very narrow strip of plain remains. At the same time, the Derbent fortress itself is part of a huge defensive system, which in ancient times protected the peoples of Asia Minor and Transcaucasia from enemies and attacks of nomads. This system included a citadel, sea and city walls, and a large Dag-Bary - Mountain wall.
Location of the Naryn-Kala fortress
The citadel is located at the top of the hill closest to the sea. Previously, the way to the sea was blocked by the parallel fortress walls of the Derbent building, which ran along the entire coast. They adjoined the citadel in the west, and in the east they completely went into the sea, thus preventing the enemy from bypassing the citadel in shallow water and creating a harbor for ships. A city called Derbent was located between the walls of a huge shelter. In the western part of the Naryn-Kala fortress there was a Mountain Wall, which stretched for about 40 km. It ensured that the inhabitants of the city could not be reached bypassing valleys and passes.
Description
The Naryn-Kala fortress (Dagestan) has an irregular shape, it occupies 4.5 hectares. Its dimensions are as follows: 180 m wide, 280 m long. Each wall has a small fortification in the form of a turret. They are located at a distance of about 20-30 m from each other. The southwestern corner of the Naryn-Kala fortress in Derbent is decorated with a large square tower, which is a bow with a defensive wall. The steep mountain slopes on all three sides of the building serve as additional protection.
The territory has undergone serious destruction and fires many times, but despite this it has not been abandoned. Until the Sassanian conquests, there were always settlements here, which speaks of the strategic importance of the site. The walls were made of poorly processed shell rock, which was laid on a mud or earthen embankment. In some places, such masonry has survived to this day.
Of course, the fortress was built for more than one day. Over the centuries, new premises have been created here: both external and internal. Many of them were completely destroyed or rebuilt over time.
The first stage in the construction of any defensive structure was considered the construction of a mud wall. It was the spread of construction techniques and their improvement that allowed the people to defend their borders, especially during active enemy campaigns. Apart from minor changes, the fortress was finally built inside and out during the reign of the Sassanid dynasty. At the same time, solid stone walls were built.
The Sassanid masonry can be observed not only in the walls of the citadel, but also in ordinary buildings in the city. Interestingly, the outer part of the walls was laid dry, and when processing the inner part, a very high-quality lime mortar was used. To strengthen the structure, an alternation of plates was used. The elements of ancient masonry are more uniform, although they do not imply the use of plates of the same shape. The Sassanid masonry not only made the building incredibly strong, but also outwardly made it splendid and unshakable.
What's inside?
There are still baths and separate water tanks inside the fortress. Here you can also find destroyed buildings, which, according to the initial estimates of archaeologists, were erected in ancient times. There is a cross-domed church, which researchers date back to about the 5th century. It is known that the church has undergone some changes. It was rebuilt into a temple of fire worshipers, and then into a mosque.
There is also the Juma Mosque - the oldest in Russia. Researchers claim that it was founded around the 8th century, however, over the centuries it has been updated many times. There is a madrasah in front of it, which dates back to the 15th century. Let us remind you that madrasah is a Muslim educational institution that performs not only the functions of a school, but also a theological seminary.
Tourists are especially fond of the Shah Palace, which, unfortunately, has reached modern times in the form of ruins. When the Russian-Persian war began in 1796, the fortress was taken by Russian troops led by Valerian Zubov.
Tourist excursion
The Naryn-Kala fortress in Derbent, the photo of which is posted in the article, is a real treasure trove of secrets and mysteries for the curious tourist. To begin with, I would like to say that the building seems to be hovering over the entire territory of the city. By the way, it is the highest point in the region. Separately, it is worth noting the view that opens up to everyone who looks into the fortress. The view from the fortress walls is difficult to convey in words, because a panorama of a huge natural territory opens before the beholder. The whole area is occupied by small houses, and the horizon line runs along the Caspian itself.
Tourists who like to walk and look for various unusual objects will be pleasantly surprised when they find a large number of reservoirs, which the reader already knows about. In the future, they plan to open a tasting club here. The indigenous inhabitants of the city say that Derbent cognac is the first wonder of the world.
Wine production
It is known that the production of wine was carried out here during the reign of Peter I. According to the legend, the ruler tasted the local wine, but he did not like it at all. The point was not that the wine is bad, but that the culture of winemaking in these parts did not exist at that time. To change the situation, the emperor sent Astrakhan specialists to Derbent. A few years later, he was sent to sample a batch of wine, with which the ruler was completely satisfied.
An interesting fact: when the emperor visited this region, it was a hot summer. He ordered to get himself a haircut. Subsequently, the remaining hair was used to create a wax figure.
Fortress prisons
As we know, it is difficult to find a fortress that did not have prisons. The Derbent fortress Naryn-Kala is no exception. The prison looks especially intimidating here. It is a stone bag into which a narrow manhole leads. By the way, local residents call such underground prisons zindan. Claustrophobic people shouldn't go there. The underground room is located at a depth of 9 m and has an area of \u200b\u200b20 m 2. Mostly state criminals who were very guilty were imprisoned here. It is not known exactly, but it is believed that even the President of Dagestan R. Abdulatipov visited this fortress. The director of the tourist center has repeatedly suggested making their prisons a stylized museum, but so far the idea has not come true.
Secret
The Naryn-Kala fortress (Derbent), the history of which we have reviewed, has its own secrets. In 960, an underground room was built here. It was located 10 m underground. Its shape is a strict cross, clearly oriented to the cardinal points. Until now, no one can say for sure what this building was intended for. There are two main versions. First, the building was a reservoir. According to the second version, the underground building was a Christian temple, which eventually went underground and was abandoned.
As for the ancient monuments of architecture, there is an amazing khan's office of the 18th century and a guardhouse.
Modernity
In 2003, the Naryn-Kala fortress (photo in the article), as well as the old part of Derbent and the surrounding fortifications became part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. In 2013, the building we know passed into the third round in the Russia 10 competition by voting results. It was hosted by the Russia 1 TV channel and the Russian Geographical Society. According to the results of the competition, the fortress took 15th place among the main attractions of Russia.
The government plans to renovate the fortress for the city's 2000th anniversary, according to a decree dated September 12, 2013. According to preliminary calculations, about 616 million rubles will be spent on landscaping and repair work.
Working hours of the Naryn-Kala fortress: every day from 8 am to 5 pm. The architectural complex is an integral part of the Derbent Historical, Architectural and Art Museum.
Even the Chinese, whose ancestors built the Great Wall of China, look at the Naryn-Kala citadel in Derbent with awe. No joke - the age of its walls has exceeded 2 thousand years! Recent archaeological research suggests that the age may be even greater. For a long time, the fortress was an outpost protecting a section of the Great Silk Road. It now serves as a peaceful museum and venue for colorful festivals.
To say that Naryn-Kala is impressive is to say nothing. She's great. The fortress hovers over Derbent and is its dominant high-rise. And what a view from the fortress walls! This is not even a bird's-eye view, but a panorama from the window of an airliner approaching landing. Many one-story houses fill the entire visible space up to the Caspian Sea. The natural border of the city is the sea coast. In the 5th century, an additional protective wall was erected from the fortress, extending into the mountains, 42 km long! At that time, these were cyclopean scales.
A walk through the territory of the fortress allows you to make many interesting discoveries. For example, there is an underground reservoir for storing water supplies. Perhaps in the future it will house a tasting room. How else? Indeed, in Derbent they say: “The first of the Seven Wonders of the World is Derbent cognac. The rest of the miracles are its consequences. " After tasting it will be possible to view the exposition Museum of the history of viticulture and winemaking.
Wine has been produced here since the time of Peter I. According to legend, he tasted local wines and was not satisfied. The reason is simple - there was no winemaking culture in these parts at that time. The Emperor ordered to send Astrakhan specialists to Derbent, and a few years later he was sent an experimental batch of new wines. Peter was pleased with them. By the way, the Russian tsar was in the fortress in August, in the midst of a scorching heat. He ordered to cut himself and make a wig out of his hair. Subsequently, it was used in the manufacture of the emperor's wax figure.
No fortress is complete without a prison. Naryn-Kala is no exception. The prison is a stone bag with a narrow opening-neck. Claustrophobes can only die from the thought of being in this place. The underground room has an area of \u200b\u200babout 20 square meters and is located at a depth of 9 meters. In section, the prison resembles a jug with a narrow neck and lid. In particular, state criminals were imprisoned. History claims that no one has ever returned from here alive. They say that the President of Dagestan Ramazan Abdulatipov once visited the fortress with a guided tour. The director of the historical reserve shared the idea of \u200b\u200bmaking a museum out of the prison. “There is no need to museumize,” the president joked. "We will use it for its intended purpose - to jail officials who do not follow my instructions."
There is also a secret in "Naryn-Kala". In 960, at a depth of 10 meters, someone built an underground room in the form of a cross, strictly oriented to the cardinal points. The size of the room is 13x15 meters. No one can understand its purpose. Perhaps it was a reservoir. But why give it such an unusual shape? Archaeologists have a version that initially the room was on the surface and was a Christian temple. Subsequently, it was abandoned and gradually plunged into cultural layers.
The East is unthinkable without a bath. This is surprising, since all eastern countries are, as a rule, on dry or completely dry lands. However, bathing procedures, unlike full-flowing Europe, have been held in high esteem here since ancient times. The Khan bathhouse was located in the fortress. It can be easily identified by the white domes that appear to lie directly on the ground. In fact, they are vaults of large rooms, which are arranged right in the ground. By the way, there is a working bathhouse in Derbent, which was opened back in the 17th century!
Ceramic pipes were laid under the floor of the Khan bathhouse through which steam circulated. It was obtained by boiling water in an oven. So, warm floors are an invention of bygone centuries, and not delights of modern European-quality repair. The rooms were illuminated through holes in the domes. Baths consisted of two sections - cold, where they changed clothes, and hot, where they washed. In the East, baths were used not only for hygiene and treatment, but, above all, for communication. It should be noted that now this tradition is often followed in various countries of the world (remember "The Irony of Fate or Enjoy Your Bath"). During the absence of telephones and social networks, the baths were a real outlet. Especially for women. When women were swimming, men were even forbidden to look in the direction of the bath. Well, when the wives of the khan himself washed, an immodest look could cost an eye.
There is a legend related to the cave from the outside of the fortress wall. According to legend, there were many beautiful women of different nationalities in the khan's harem. Among them were not only Georgians. Khan sent a detachment to Georgia, which brought 40 girls from there. However, at this time the fortress was besieged by the enemy, and the girls had to be hidden in a cave. The entrance was walled up with stones. The detachment entered the battle and died in full force. In addition to the soldiers of the detachment, no one knew about the girls locked in the cave. Needless to say, how this tragedy ended.
“Naryn-Kala” was so famous in ancient times that the Bible and the Koran mention it. In 1858, Alexander Dumas Sr. visited the fortress. He wanted to get his own impression in order to write about her. However, Dumas read what Alexander Bestuzhev-Marlinsky wrote about the citadel, and admitted that he was not able to surpass him. "Naryn-Kala" must be seen with your own eyes. This is the only way to understand why the citadel has stood the test of time.
Derbent is a part of the Tea Express train cruise. The first such cruise took place in April, the second in June. Now the program of the next railway voyage is being formed. The author thanks Tourism Committee of Ingushetia for an invitation to take part in a press tour on the Tea Express train
