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Mysterious Island: Cemetery and houseboats on Gunboat. Mysterious Island: Cemetery and houseboats on Kanonerka Cemeteries and squares

: a park will be created on Kanonersky Island. Strictly speaking, this is not entirely true: so far only an amendment to the General Plan has been adopted, which transfers the territory of the island to the zone green spaces. Which is also, of course, a lot, but still far from a park.

Kanonersky Island is a cinematic place. Until the 1980s, it was possible to get here only by water, but now it is through a narrow tunnel, which is dangerous to cross on foot. At the entrance - the late modernist building of the "Priboy" pool and a typical Soviet shopping center where little seems to have changed since the 1990s. Five thousand people live in houses for most of the Brezhnev era.

To get to the southern part of the island, where a park can now hypothetically appear, waterproof shoes are needed at this time of the year. From the hill formed by dumps of garbage and melted snow, an industrial-urban view of the Gulf of Finland opens - with ships passing by, an aeration station on a neighboring island and new buildings looming in the distance. On the other side of the hill stretches a thin, but very long strip of sandy beach.

Two years ago, I curated workshops where teams of architects . The most popular proposal was to build berths with all-season landing stages, and on the island itself to arrange a park with beaches, panoramic restaurants and greenhouses.

The idea was not infinitely utopian: all-weather houseboats could be produced by the ship repair plant located here, and the heat produced by the treatment facilities would be enough to heat the greenhouses. And yet it was obvious that maritime romance was doomed to defeat in competition with the cargo port, which was going to be built on Kanonersky with private money. It is easy to assume that now the deputies have adopted an amendment to the General Plan, not least because the hopes for the activity of investors have vanished.

The city authorities who are about to cease to cope with social obligations, appeared incentive to go forward reasonable requirements

This autumn, the economic decline for the first time, perhaps, became obvious to the eye in St. Petersburg: the usual signs disappear from Nevsky Prospect, expensive grocery stores empty, the number of flights from Pulkovo Airport has decreased by a third over the past six months. And all this in a gloomy November scenery. There are reasons to indulge in sadness, but do not fall into despondency.

By and large, for St. Petersburg, the current deplorable state of affairs can play a favorable role. Tired of Soviet and post-Soviet poverty, the city easily accepted the paradigm in which everything was decided by short money. Not because it's good, but because it's impossible without them. The city must develop - that was the explanation for everything that happened. We built endless apartment complexes in the middle of empty lots, because people needed inexpensive apartments, and the budget needed income. We designed road junctions, because we had to do something with the ever-growing flow of cars bought on credit. We thought that alluvium on Vasilyevsky Island could be built up following the example of Leninsky Prospekt: ​​otherwise developers would not be able to recoup their investments. We agreed that a courthouse would be built on the last free plot of land in the center, because the presidential administration was ready to pay for this construction - otherwise, who would be engaged in the reclamation of contaminated land.


Project marine park on Kanonersky Island

General human considerations, such as the fact that it is unpleasant to live among wide roads and ugly giant houses, that the center needs more greenery, and that in Ozerki some entertainment besides shopping seemed unforgivable idealism against the background of reinforced concrete pragmatic arguments. And nothing could stop their pressure, materializing in the form of more and more construction sites. From this perspective, the recession looks like a saving grace. Shipbuilding has been delayed. The market for new buildings is declining, and next year it will do it even more rapidly. Communications have not yet been carried out on the alluvium on Vasilyevsky Island and are unlikely to be done in the near future, so the decision on its fate has actually been postponed. Apparently, there is no one to build a cargo port on Kanonersky.

The disappearance or weakening of a collective large investor automatically enhances the significance of public opinion. The discussion about the use of certain territories, even if hypothetical, no longer threatens someone's plans and can be more meaningful and productive. The city authorities, who are about to cease to cope with social obligations, have an incentive to meet reasonable demands. In addition, the lack of big money opens up opportunities for more subtle and thoughtful work with projects - let's say, in stages and with the help of several participants.

In a word, there is no park on Kanonersky Island yet, but there is hope, one might even say a chance that it will still be.

With its old industrial zones, periodically checking the map. According to the plan of Periscope, it was planned to complete the route on Gutuevsky Island, where the Directorate of the St. Petersburg Port is located. And then on the same map I noticed that the next one after Gutuevsky was Kanonersky Island. Again, I knew about the Gunboat from the reports of Periscope, and offered to make a sortie there as well.
And what is there, on the Kanonerka? It's a completely different world out there. northern capital isolated much stronger than the suburbs. Among Petersburgers, God forbid, if every hundredth has been here, among tourists, probably not every thousandth. But for St. Petersburg, this place is no less important than Nevsky Prospect with the Hermitage - after all, the port, the second largest in Russia, is very close by, the same "Window to Europe" cut through by Peter.

The trip to the Kanonerka completed my four-day trip to St. Petersburg and Petrozavodsk, dedicated to the ancient industry. With a post about the Gunboat, I open the story of this journey.

To begin with - a small diagram, so that it is clear what it is - Kanonersky Island:

It is denoted here by the number "1" - long, narrow, elongated parallel to the shore. The width of the gunboat is no more than 650 meters, the length is 5 kilometers. Under the number "2" - Gutuevsky Island, separated from the city by the Ekateringofka River, turned into a strait. To the south of Gutuevsky - the Seaport, which occupies a vast territory - its basin and numerous piers are clearly visible. Between Gutuevsky and Kanonersky there is the Sea Canal, dug back in the 1870s - at a depth of 15 meters it allows even giant liners to pass, and this is the only way to the ports of St. Petersburg. Well, the number "3", to make it clearer, I denoted the Moscow railway station, where trains arrive from the capital.
But the main thing is that Kanonersky Island is connected with the center only through a kilometer-long tunnel under the canal, dug in 1983. Before that, there was a regime area here, and it was possible to get there only by boat. The "tongue" in the north of Kanonerka is clearly visible on the map - this is the Kanonersky ship repair plant, founded in 1883 as workshops for the repair of dredgers, and now specializing in the repair of the Arctic and Antarctic fleets. Here you can see the diesel-electric ship "Ob", once a year delivering polar explorers to Antarctica.

In the area of ​​​​the shipyard - one of the two old buildings I noticed on Kanonerka. Possibly directorate:

And this is the so-called Nest of Minibuses. The only knot on Kanonerka public transport, from where "Gazelkas" and rare buses run along several routes beyond the tunnel. For example, we drove away from here straight to Sennaya:

The residential part of Kanonerka is, in fact, the only, albeit extremely high-rise, quarter with a grand hostel:

The contingent here, it seemed to me, is very specific. In one of the yards we were hailed by two drugged-looking boys: "Hey, what are you filming?!" I would not dare to walk here in the evening. Visually, Kanonerka most of all resembles sleeping areas. By the way, officially the Kanonersky and Gutuevsky Islands are called the Sea Gate District, and the brick house on the left is its council (in the annex there is a shop and a cafe).

The dominant feature of the district is the chimney of an unfinished boiler house, which was once chosen by stalkers. There were several accidents, so in the end the stairs were cut at each tier. However, they say that those who want to climb up are still here.

The eastern side of the Gunboat is limited by the Sea Canal, the perspective of which from the Nest looks like this:

As you know, initially the port of St. Petersburg was located on Vasilyevsky Island, and apparently, in the 18th century this was true. But progress went on, the tonnage of ships increased, but the depth of the Neva Bay with its fresh water did not. By the middle of the 19th century, 4/5 of the cargo turnover of St. Petersburg fell on Kronstadt, but since the latter was on the island itself, the cargo was reloaded onto small ships, which greatly increased the cost of the process. Nikolay Putilov, the owner of the largest Russian Empire plant, which made the decision to transfer the port to Gutuevsky Island (closer to its plant) and the construction of a deep-water canal, which was done in 1878-1885. It is worth saying that Putilov himself did not use his project, since he died in 1880.
Well, before we set off on a hike along the canal, we stocked up on food and went to the other side of the Kanonerka, having arranged a halt overlooking the Gulf of Finland - after all, there were at least 12 kilometers of hiking along Obvodny left behind.

The view from Kanonerka opens almost strictly from north to south, along the city coast. On the other hand, Kronstadt and Peterhof are barely visible. The passenger port is clearly visible ahead. cruise ships- Approximately behind the far right of them, a new gas scraper in Lakhta should grow. And directly adjacent to the Kanonerka white island where the treatment plant is located (about its internal territory):

In the distance - the passenger terminal and houses on the northern side of the bay:

And behind the bay you can see the North-Western Thermal Power Plant (1994-2000), one of the most modern in Russia (in particular, it was the first thermal power plant in the country with a combined cycle cycle, that is, it uses not only steam, but also the combustion products themselves to rotate turbines) .

In general, the "near" beach on Kanonerka is not the best place for recreation: the water is dirty, the shore is littered. To make a halt is the very thing, but I would not swim and sunbathe here. But this is only a small part of the Gunboat, and all the most interesting - further. The southern tip of the island is about 4 kilometers away. Past the second pre-revolutionary house on Kanonerka (as explained in the comments, this is the house of buoyers built in 1893, where the Tukhlov family of buoyers lived for four generations), we went along the Sea Canal to the south:

Here on such a road - the canal on the left, the sea on the right behind the bushes:

The bank of the canal and the fishermen, of whom there are indescribably many. It is simply impossible to go ashore without disturbing some guy with a fishing rod:

Gradually, the port and the industrial area on the mainland that sprawled behind it - the Kirov Plant (originally Putilovsky) and the shipyard - are being opened.

The channel operates in three cycles in turn: "to St. Petersburg", "from St. Petersburg" and intra-port navigation. In the roadstead, in a few hours, a queue accumulates on average from ten to forty ships, which then go in a caravan - this is very impressive, and we will see it again. But here we went during the intra-port cycle, when navigation is rather sluggish.

And here you can clearly see the pre-revolutionary buildings of the Putilov Plant - it is almost impossible to see them from the city, although the gigantic plant hides a lot of them on its territory. However, the Kirov Plant will be in another post.

Then we felt some movement in the port, something had clearly changed, and ten minutes later the first large ship was heading towards Petersburg:

Behind the wide basin of the port is the Divided Dam, on which the container terminal is arranged. Petersburg is the second largest port in today's Russia with a cargo turnover of about 60 million tons (after which it is twice as small), but at the same time, in terms of the area occupied, the port of St. Petersburg is much larger than Novorossiysk and comparable to. In the vicinity there are two more ports (and Vysotsk), with a cargo turnover exceeding Murmansk, a third one is being built - Ust-Luga. All this is not done from a good life - earlier the same cargo flow went through Riga, Tallinn, Ventspils, and it took Russia twenty years to create a similar infrastructure in Russia.

Behind the Separate Dam is Coal Harbor, where the terminal of "general cargo" (that is, bulk and occupying large volumes) is located, whether it be coal or grain. For their storage, those grandiose warehouses were built:

Here the gunboat narrows to 150 meters, and this "tongue" (it is clearly visible on the map), apparently, was artificially poured under Putilov. It has a ridge - a stone dam:

The masonry is very capital and evokes associations with ancient civilizations. And what looks like the ruins of Hyperborea:

Behind the herbs of Gunboats - the high facade of Vasilyevsky Island:

And this is the development of the north side - the Atlantic City skyscraper is clearly visible (105m - the first 100-meter building in St. Petersburg, not counting St. Isaac's and Peter and Paul Cathedrals) and the Golden Harbor residential complex on the right side of the frame. And in the left - already familiar liners, worthy of high-rise buildings. The sphere in the center of the frame is a water park under construction, the largest in Russia.

On the other hand - the mouth of the Sea Canal, where another vessel enters:

The island narrows to 40 meters:

The path through the "drunken forest", battered by the Baltic winds:

There was a picnic along the way. I didn’t quite understand who these guys are, but oh my, how cool it is when a person in a vest is not a hippie, but a SAILOR:

A scattering of bricks of pre-revolutionary production:

So we came to the end of Kanonersky Island - a stone "tongue" protruding into the sea:

On the other side is the entry sign. Do you still remember that Petersburg in the foreseeable past was Leningrad?

View forward - another 400 meters long dam stretches behind a small jumper - you can also go to it in winter:

And it looks like the ruins of some Swedish fortress:

A very beautiful sky. Grace descended on Strelna:

The Peter and Paul Cathedral in Peterhof turns black with a single trident:

At the lighthouse - some work:

A boat was rushing back and forth all the time - probably the Ministry of Emergencies:

On the other hand - the Gulf of Finland and St. Petersburg. Liners are great! Stands apart from others, if I'm not confusing anything. The Navigator of the Seas is one of the five giant Voyager-class liners, launched in 2002 and until 2004 remained the largest passenger ship in the world. Its length is 311 meters, width 47 meters, height - 79 meters, displacement - 137 thousand tons (for comparison, the aircraft carrier "Enterprise" - 78 thousand, although the latter is larger in length and width). Periscope in one of the past trips happened to see the "Navigator" on the Sea Canal, and probably this is a unique impression - when a colossus as high as a 20-story building passes nearby. Now this can no longer be seen - in 2010, a separate channel was pierced for liners, connecting with the Sea Canal opposite Strelna.

View back - quarter on Kanonerka and Kanonersky factory:

Petersburg, TV tower (326 meters, built in 1958-62) and the spire of the Marine Station (1982, not to be confused with the passenger port where the cruise ships stand):

And a caravan of ships was coming towards us - one after another, in an endless chain. As soon as one ship passed us, another immediately appeared on the horizon: after all, the canal begins at Kronstadt, stretches along the bottom, and therefore the ships go strictly in one line.

Almost everything is container ships, and almost everything is of the same type as this "Werder Bremen" from Hamburg (length 121 meters, displacement 7.4 thousand tons):

Almost the entire caravan consisted of ships of the same type, with the exception of Maersk Vancouver, again from Hamburg (although Gibraltar is written on the stern). This one stood out for its size - 178 meters in length, with a displacement of 22 thousand tons. As you can see, compared to cruise ships, it’s a toy, but compared to us, sitting on the shore, it’s a monster:

The periscope calculated the number of containers by eye - Vancouver is carrying about 10,000 tons of cargo:

Passes by us... But tankers are not allowed here - for them there is Vysotsk and Primorsk.

The passage of "Vancouver" Periscope even filmed on video.
Container ships left for Coal Harbor:

Here's the next one, and then another, and another, and another:

You can look at it endlessly, but it was time for us to return. Container ships behind the trees were a little faster than us:

What a striking contrast on Kanonersky Island!
At the top, the construction of a cosmic scale of a high-speed highway for gentlemen is being completed.
Below is a miserable miserable existence.


Completion date for the central section of the Western speed diameter moved five times already. Another date announced by Governor Poltavchenko is the end of November (November 32)

American spies littered the coast

Baltic customs

Standing under the overpass is unpleasant, dizzy when you look up. And sparks fall from the bridge - welding work is not over yet

And scary. Once the details were already falling


photo: Ruslan http://www.fontanka.ru/2016/02/06/045/

The bridge across the Korabelny fairway, which is so clearly visible at the alignment of Bolshoy Prospekt of Vasilyevsky Island

Construction of a new kindergarten. The old kindergarten and school fell into the construction zone and were demolished.

Tin and life. Grandma was looking for something in the trash :(

It turns out that there is an extraordinary monument to the heroes of the war. I didn't notice it before

The monument is pretty scary, I must admit.

In the valley world, roads are being repaired

But in the mountains it is more beautiful! I think that the overpass should be encrusted with mirror mosaics, including rock crystal and Ural gems. Install spotlights on the surrounding Khrushchevs, direct the light towards the structure so that it glows both day and night.


For some reason, a fence was installed on the embankment of the Sea Canal ... an inexplicable moment

The peculiarity of the overpass is that the movement of cars is organized on two levels: inside the farm and on the farm. The reasons for such an expensive pleasure were voiced: 1. technical optimization of the canal crossing 2. greed of the Kirov plant. I believe more in the second

We initiated the collection of signatures for an amendment to the General Plan of St. Petersburg on the creation park area on the Kanonersky Island Dam. Review will be in the coming days.

The dam of Kanonersky Island is unique place is located within a ten-minute walk from the central part of the city. For many years this small part of St. Petersburg was reserved for port facilities. Now houses have grown around, the Seaport is working nearby. From here, picturesque views of the bay, coastal areas of the city, as well as ships passing through the Sea Canal open up.

Curator: Sergey Padalko (AM Vitruvius and Sons). Team: Anna Kutilina (SPbGAIZhSA), Ksenia Tyazhkova (SPbGAIZhSA), Nikita Timonin (SPbGAIZhSA), Anastasia Lakrisenko (SPbGAIZhSA), Natalia Saltan (SPbGAIZhSA), Anna Delgyado (AB11)

We propose to place along the spit a parking lot for houseboats - landing stages. This apart-hotel can become housing for tourists, yachtsmen, residents of houses resettled due to the construction of the WHSD, a maneuverable housing stock for shipyard workers and just romantics. "Kanonersky Marine Park" with fish restaurants and recreation areas along the beach, the connection of the lake with the sea by channels (as it was before) will create unique conditions for sea fishing and mooring places for boats and yachts. The park itself will organically grow out of the surrounding industrial landscape: lanterns made from ship pipes, playgrounds made from old ships, anchor chains and a horizontal Ferris wheel on harbor cranes. Public spaces will appear inside the park - a summer cinema, sports grounds, an air lift and 5 km of beaches with bike paths and cafes.

Curator: Valery Nefedov. Team: Nadezhda Gerasimova (SpbGASU), Veronika Zhukova (SpbGASU), Valeria Zezyulinskaya (SpbGASU), Victoria Kurilchenko (SpbGASU), Valeria Mansurova (SpbGASU), Valentina Holoshenko (SpbGASU), Victoria Nigmatullina (SpbGASU)

We had an idea - to create a multifunctional park based on the resources of the island, which can be transformed depending on the format of the event. This becomes possible due to the strict zoning of the territory. We divided the park into four zones: blue (based on the existing beach), yellow (based on the embankment), green (based on the lake), red (on green undeveloped areas).

The blue zone is located along coastline and intended for aquatic species sports and leisure activities. It is also a place for temporary exhibitions on barges (festival of gardens). Provided viewing platforms and equipped beach.

The yellow zone consists of two axes of the island perpendicular to each other and is central location for walking, with the inclusion here of commercial, sports and educational functions. Greenhouses, libraries, mini-fairs, cafes, shops can appear here, and large fairs and sports competitions (running, skiing) can be held.

The green zone, located around the lake, is a transformable frame space, with a variable scenario and functions that can change both during the year and one day. We propose to place cafes, co-working spaces, a hostel, mini-offices and mini-shops here. Concerts, film screenings, shows on the lake, and in winter - an ice rink can be held here.

The red zone in the depths of the island is a system of equipped spaces for sports games. This area includes a rope park, an extreme zone, paintball, a climbing wall. A variety of events can be organized here, for example, a snow fortress and snowball fights, installations, film screenings, laser shows, concerts, competitions in extreme sports.

Curator: Rafael Dayanov. Team: Daria Dolgova (SPbGASU), Larisa Zakharzhevskaya (SPbGASU), Tatiana Kislova (SPbGASU), Arseniy Konnov (SPbGU/SPb NRU ITMO), Daria Kutsaeva (SPbGAIZhSA), Ivan Mylnikov (SPbGAIZhSA), Victoria Solovieva (SPbGASU)

The southern part of the island is very valuable from an ecological point of view. We plan to leave it as untouched as possible, but to introduce the elements of improvement that are necessary for the comfort of visitors and the protection of the landscape. We will launch footpaths at a height of 50 centimeters above ground level - this way we will protect the landscape from negative impacts.
In the proposed zoning system, the degree of comfort, silence and environmental friendliness increases in the direction from the WHSD section and reaches its maximum on the spit.

There are other projects and materials on the development of the Kanonersky Island Dam: http://vk.cc/3Qgw2y

If such plans are implemented, the Kanonersky Island Dam could become the largest recreation area with access to the Gulf of Finland in close proximity to the central part of the city, adjacent to the Admiralteisky and Kirovsky districts of the city.

In the near future, the Parliament of St. Petersburg will consider amendments to the General Plan of the city. One of the amendments submitted to the project proposes to change the existing zone of water transport facilities (I4) to a zone of green spaces for general and limited use (P2).

We propose to support this amendment, preserve a corner of wildlife and give the citizens a coastal park!

Petersburg parliament approved the corresponding proposal of the opposition deputies

Deputies of the Legislative Assembly of St. Petersburg supported the idea of ​​transferring 50 hectares on Kanonersky Island to a zone of public green spaces. The corresponding amendment to the bill on green spaces was adopted at today's meeting of Parliament.

Green gunboat

The amendments were introduced by a group of independent deputies (Vladislav Bakulin, Olga Galkina, Irina Komolova, Vyacheslav Notyag, Maxim Reznik and Sergei Trokhmanenko). Earlier, O. Galkina said that the dam of Kanonersky Island is an ideal place for a recreational area. “Residents of Kanonerka call their microdistrict “Petersburg Canaries”. This area is an ideal place to create at least a recreational zone, and in some places even a new specially protected natural area,” she said. For the creation of a park with access to the Gulf of Finland, by the way, more than 1.5 thousand signatures of citizens have already been collected.

It is worth recalling that as part of the Future Petersburg forum, RBC Petersburg conducted a foresight on the development of the territory of Kanonersky Island back in 2013. Five teams of young architects then proposed their projects for the vision of the territory, each of which focused on different problems of this promising place. The team of Rafael Dayanov proposed the creation of new residential complexes, including for people with limited mobility, the teams of Nikita Yavein and Valery Nefedov - to improve the territory, the team of Igor Matveev proposed to place a crematorium with a burial place "Memory Island" on Kanonersky Island, and the team of Sergei Padalko (architectural workshop "Vitruvius and sons") to turn the island into a park and a parking lot for houseboats.

Cemeteries and squares

Today, the majority of deputies also supported the amendments to include the Neva Garden (Polustrovo), Pulkovsky Park, the territory of the former Farforovsky cemetery and the former Mitrofanevsky cemetery in the list of green spaces. In addition, amendments were adopted to increase the territory of the Aviators' Park.

At the same time, the Legislative Assembly did not adopt amendments to the bill 323. Among those rejected were amendments to increase the area of ​​Malinovka Park (there were three in total). “Despite the fact that the decree on the construction of the temple has been canceled, and the community is given another site. And despite the publicly declared position of Smolny, represented by Vice-Governor Albin, in support of these amendments. Disgrace. There is no other word, - Boris Vishnevsky commented on the situation. “This is complete contempt for the opinion of the inhabitants of the Krasnogvardeisky district, who put 30,000 signatures in favor of preserving the park. Well, if some of the deputies are so indifferent to the will of the voters, then I hope that the voters will answer them adequately - by voting in the elections.