Behind the village of Elbrus, the side gorge Adyl-Su (Old Türkic - "Red Water") goes to the left, so named because of the springs in the upper reaches of the river, translation options, another version - "Adyl" - in Balkar - "beautiful, beautiful", "Su" - "water, mountain river"), - one of the most beautiful places in the Elbrus region. The Adyl-Su River is the right tributary of the Baksan, flowing into it near the village of Elbrus. Both the river and the gorge fully live up to their name.
The right (upward) slopes of the gorge are covered with pine forests, where there are dense thickets of gooseberries, rose hips, raspberries, and lingonberries.
The beauty of the Adyl-Su gorge, its accessibility, the abundance of various mountain routes have created the glory of the "Mecca" of mountaineering in the gorge. The Adyl-Su gorge is the capital of national mountaineering, which has given the world a constellation of names of climbers to the most difficult peaks of the Caucasus, the Pamirs and the Himalayas.
So, the tourist route along the gorge starts from the Saklya cafe, from the Baksan-Azau highway.
Most of the mountaineering bases of Kabardino-Balkaria (three), a boarding house and a recreation center are located in this gorge. In 200 meters from the fork in a pine forest, the Adyl-Su alpine base was built, which previously belonged to the Lokomotiv sports society. Behind the base there is an open mountain slope, on which novice skiers actively train in winter.
Above the gorge, the road goes through the forest: the pine forest is sometimes replaced by deciduous (birch, maple, mountain ash, bird cherry), where boletus, porcini mushroom, boletus, mushrooms, currants, drupes, etc. are found.
In winter, there is an avalanche hazard in a certain area.
Three kilometers from the fork on a steep slope, there is the Shkhelda alpine base, which used to belong to the Spartak sports society - the cradle of national mountaineering, which has raised more than one generation of the country's outstanding mountain climbers.
The Shkhelda River, a left tributary of the Adyl-Su, flows into it immediately after the alpine camp.
Immediately behind the alpbaza (to the right) is a short but harsh gorge of Shkhelda (link) with the Shkhelda river (from Balkar - "lingonberry"), starting on the glaciers of the Shkhelda-Tau peak (4368 m). This is not even one peak, but a massive wall with 4 peaks in the Main Caucasian ridge.
Tourists have a very popular route to the Shkhelda glacier to the Shkhelda's Smile glade. It runs along the left bank of the river and for beginner tourists ends at the "Golden Beach" near the Shkhelda glacier. Here you can observe an exceptionally curious natural phenomenon - the entire terminal part of the glacier bears a thick layer of products of destruction of rocks (the surface of the glacier was covered with rock fragments as a result of a grandiose collapse that occurred in the 60s of the 19th century).
The stone flooring protects the glacier from melting, and therefore it does not recede, like all glaciers of the Elbrus region. Large pines have grown on this drift, reaching with their roots the surface of a glacier hidden underground. Along the moraine of the glacier, there are routes popular with climbers: to the peaks of Shkhelda and Ushba, to Shchurovsky peak, to Chatyn-Tau. “One of the most majestic and beautiful in terms of its outlines the mountains of the Caucasus is Ushba, which ends with two peaks,” says the 1904 Caucasus Mountains Guide. “Both peaks are shaped like triangular pyramids and are amazingly beautiful. The higher of them ... differs in flatter slopes, the second, on the contrary, is steeper. Almost until recently, Ushba was considered completely inaccessible for ascents. In 1888, the Englishman I.G. Kokkin made the first successful attempt to climb the northern summit. In 1903, five German climbers ... ascended an even more inaccessible southern summit. "
And up the Adyl-Su gorge the road after one kilometer, crossing the bridge over the Shkhelda river, leads by a serpentine road to a fork. One road going to the right into the Shkhelda gorge leads to the Prielbrusye boarding house - a luxurious three-story building belonging to the Administrative Department of the President of the Russian Federation. But the boarding house accepts, in addition to high-ranking, and ordinary tourists, and resting here, of course, is pleasant and prestigious.
The road along the Adyl-Su gorge leads to the educational and methodological center (UMC) "Elbrus" (earlier the alpine camp belonged to the Ukrainian sports society "Shakhtar"), located, like other mountain bases, on the left bank of the Adyl-Su river, on a cozy meadow, belted with pines, aspens, birches and bird cherry. Previously, the center worked to train mountaineering instructors, specialists for industrial mountaineering, and now it increasingly works like a regular alpine camp. Border guards, serving in the mountains and mastering mountaineering equipment for their service, conduct their training here.
This is followed by a steep ascent, and in front of us is an open area, on which there are a number of cafes and barbecue houses where you can take a break. This site is always crowded, with sightseeing buses lining up in rows.
Near the “Elbrus” educational center, the asphalted road ends and, in the form of a gravel road, crosses the bridge to the right bank of the Adyl-Su. There is a beautiful view of Mount Shkhelda and the chain of peaks in the Adyl-Su gorge. The platform at the anti-avalanche weapon can also serve as an observation point. The road, however, steeply, through alpine meadows, rises to the recreation center "Dzhantugan", located in a forest glade, 7 km from the fork in the Baksan gorge. Passenger cars quietly rise to the base along the road.
You can also walk up to "Dzhantugan" along the lower walking path, here - by the river, a source of narzan makes its way between the stones.
Previously, "Dzhantugan" (from the Turkic - "Soul of Tugan") was a mountaineering camp. Belongs to the Bauman Moscow State Technical University (MSTU). Students and teachers of the University in "Dzhantugan" not only have a rest, but also improve their tourism and mountaineering skills.
From the road, opposite “Dzhantugan”, the “ice laboratory” of all alpine bases looks good - the Kashka-Tash glacier (from the Balkarian - “bald stones”) and the peaks: Germagenov peak - 3993 m; Ullu Kara (from Balkar - “Big Black) - 4302 m; Bzhedukh (from Kabardian - "Stole the Horn") - 4279 m; the peak of Free Spain. Behind the alpbase you can see the Dzhantugan peak - 3991 m. In Dzhantugan, the road ends, and only along a path winding between rocky ledges, talus and boulders, after 1.5 hours of walking, you can reach the glacial Bashkarinsky Lake. Behind the lake, the peaks of Dzhantugan and Bashkar are clearly visible. The Jan-Kuat glacier hangs on the right.
Nearby are smaller lakes formed by the Jan-Kuat glacier. In the distance you can see the whitening peaks of Elbrus. In 2-2.5 hours - we are at the mountaineering shelter, called the "Green Hotel". The Green Hotel is a large meadow covered with thick grass in summer, with a hut for 20 people. Trails leave from the glade to the passes of Gumachi and Koy-augan-aush, leading to the neighboring Adyr-Su gorge (link) and to the Dzhantugan pass, leading to Svaneti (Georgia).
Along the entire length of the Adyl-Su gorge in the riverbed, up to a dozen small narzan springs are beaten, which is a pleasant surprise for tourists who have come a long way, especially in the hot season, which happens in the mountains (usually: July-mid-August). The duration of the journey from the beginning of the route to the "Green Hotel" is about 5 hours, the return journey will take 3 hours.
The beauty of the Elbrus region makes tourists from different parts of the country come here every year. One of the most popular places in this region is the Adyl-Su gorge. It is located between the Yusengi and Adyl ridges. The gorge is beautiful at any time of the year. In warmer months, it is dominated by pointed peaks covered with a white snow cap. They are surprisingly combined with green valleys. In winter, the gorge turns into a snowy kingdom with ice slopes sparkling in the sun.
Description
Adyl-Su in translation from the Balkar language means "beautiful water". The mountain river of the same name runs along the bottom of the gorge. Its stormy stream makes its way through rocks and rubble. There are narzan springs in its mouth. It is they who leave a bright orange bloom on the stones. The reason for this is that water contains a large amount of iron.
Having first entered the Adyl-Su gorge, tourists are amazed at the noise that stands here. It is the rumble of a raging stream breaking through landslides and stone embankments. In just a few minutes, visitors get used to the noise, beginning to distinguish both the singing of birds and the rustle of the beautiful forest. The length of the gorge is about 15 kilometers.
The road runs along the river. It offers breathtaking views of the mountains. On the right side, the gorge is overgrown with a pine forest. The majestic trees exude a pleasant and very beneficial scent for the respiratory system. There are berry meadows in the forest. Huge bushes of rose hips, gooseberries, meadows of raspberries and lingonberries. Sometimes the pine forest is replaced by deciduous. Mushroom pickers especially love him. During the season, you can find here a large number of porcini mushrooms, camelina, boletus and boletus.
The trail winds heavily. She then rises to the open area, then again takes travelers straight to the river. The path leads directly to the Kashkatash glacier in the Adyl-Su gorge. The huge block is striking in its size. People began to use even this natural landmark for entertainment. Ice climbing is practiced here. Moreover, trainings are carried out both in winter and in summer. The impressive height of Kashkatash in the Adyl-Su gorge does not allow people without special training and skills to take part in the process. The place is very dangerous, because there are many kinks and crevices in the glacier. You can climb it only with an instructor along a previously thought out and proven route.
The glacier fills the lake, also located in the Adyl-Su valley. The reservoir is called Bashkarinsky. It was formed as a result of melting snow, which broke away from the glacier at the end of the 30s of the last century. The depth is 33 meters. The lake is filled with clear blue water. Its temperature is always low. However, this does not stop tourists who decided to freshen up in the hot summer months after a long walk through the canyon.
Alpine camp Adyl-Su
Tourists often call the flat, gentle top of the gorge a "green hotel". Several alpbases are located on it at once. It is from this place Adyl-Su that the routes leading to the mountains begin. One of the most popular among them is the Adyl-Su alpine camp. It is located at an altitude of 1850 meters above sea level. The famous Narzan springs are located not far from it. The alpine camp not only provides shelter to athletes, but also trains beginners. Experienced instructors work here, they prepare people, and also guide them along the easy routes of the Elbrus region.
All the necessary equipment is available for rent at the camp. It is worth remembering that not all people are allowed to climb. Therefore, there is a medical control service on the territory that monitors the condition of all climbers setting off on routes of varying difficulty. The Adyl-Su alpine camp operates in the gorge both in winter and in summer. Guests are accommodated in comfortable rooms or rent separate cottages.
How to get to the Adyl-Su gorge?
The path to the gorge is not close. The easiest way to get to the Elbrus from large cities is by plane. You need to fly to Nalchik. From the city you need to go by public transport or by taxi to the village of Terskol. This is the nearest settlement to the gorge. From there, you can continue your journey either on foot, or come to the "green hotel" by taxi.
The Adyl-Su gorge is a tract of the river with the same name. This water stream originates at the top of the Caucasus Mountains, mainly from the melting of the Dzhankuat glacier, and flows through the expanses of the Kabardino-Balkarian Republic of Russia. The Adyl-Su river flows along the Elbrus and is a tributary of one of the largest rivers in this region - Baksan.
The beauty of this natural site attracts numerous tourists. The Adyl-Su gorge is located, the photo of which we present in our article, between the Adyl and Yusengi ridges. The length of the crevice between the mountain peaks is 15 km. In this way, the water flow moves from the very peaks of Glavnoye along the entire Baksan Valley to its mouth.
Description of the gorge
The beauty of nature is difficult to convey in words, this is a must-see. This place is especially beautiful in summer, when the slopes of the surrounding mountains are covered with green grasses with flowering plants. Then they resemble alpine meadows. The smell in the air at this time is extraordinary. The sharp tops of rocky mountains surround the valley on all sides. The glaciers, which stretch their branches into the Adyl-Su gorge, are dissected by fractures from melting and sparkle with whiteness against a green background of vegetation.
Here, in the natural spaces, you can find grazing mountain goats or sarn. Several peaks are looking at the fault at once, so many climbers begin their ascents from this very point, because athletes call the Adyl-Su gorge a "green hotel". Although translated from Kabardino-Balkarian, adyl means "beautiful, beautiful", suu means "river".
There are many streams and small lakes on the territory, which periodically fill up, which is associated with the melting of glaciers and snow caps of the surrounding peaks. The area is covered with a magnificent pine forest, which is also interesting to explore, passing along the narrow paths of the forest.
Authority permission
But it's not easy to look at the beauty of this place. The Adyl-Su gorge in the Elbrus region is located just on the border between two states: Russia and Georgia. To pass through the border zone, you must obtain a pass. This procedure is free, but it takes time. It is better to order it in advance on the Internet, through the website of the border service of the Russian Federation. There is a sample application there. They will write it out to the checkpoint where the tourist will later receive it.
If you have already arrived at the place, then you can do this at the border office. You will have to wait three days. During this period, you can plan a visit to other natural attractions, which are abundant here. Some climbers or rock climbers, at their own peril and risk, begin the journey without any permits. You can, of course, and so, if you are not afraid of meeting with border guards and you have time to find out all the details. Without a pass, you are allowed to go only to "Dzhantugan". So everyone must decide this question for himself, but the best option would still be to arrange everything according to the law, as it should be, so as not to spoil such an amazing adventure as climbing the mountains with unnecessary delays and troubles.
How to get there
You can fly to the Elbrus region through the airports of Nalchik and Mineralnye Vody (liners fly there from most cities in the country), but it is more convenient to get to the place of travel from Nalchik. From airports or bus stations, you need to change to buses, minibuses or take a taxi to get to the nearest village to the gorge called Terskol. It is located in the upper reaches
Dangerous dating
It is best to get there by public transport, since, according to witnesses, there are cases when private traders offer their services very cheaply, and then they bring them into dark nooks and extort money, knowing that tourists take a lot of money with them on vacation. Also dangerous are meetings with strangers who can take prisoner and sell the traveler into slavery, especially if he is on the way on his own. In order not to risk your freedom and life, as well as to keep your cash safe and sound, it is better not to use the services of strangers. If you missed the last bus in the Elbrus region, then it is better to stay overnight at a hotel in Nalchik, and in the morning it is calm, without risks, to get to the place by bus.
"Green Hotel"
The peaks of the Adyl-Su gorge form a beautiful valley, which is one of the most impressive places in the Elbrus region. Since this place is approached by an asphalt road, it is the most accessible for most fans of mountain climbing. In the valley there are four camps for climbers at once, which from this "green hotel" go to various mountain routes developed by instructors.
From the mouth of the gorge there is a good one to the Elbrus camp, but a dirt road already stretches higher, which will lead travelers to the rest of the camps of the “green hotel”. There are "Adyl-Su", "Shkhelda", "Dzhantugan".
The terrain is flat and great for tourists and climbers. And a little higher up the mountainside, near the edge of the Djankuat glacier, there is also a camp, but it is a base for glaciologists, scientists and students studying eternal ice, their physical properties and the effect of glaciers on our planet.
Glacier
On Mount Dzhantugan (translated from Balkar means "the birth of the soul"), which starts from the gorge, there is a glacier dotted with kinks and crevices. This is a very dangerous place, where it is better not to be even experienced climbers, let alone ordinary wildlife lovers. Directly from the camp in the tent camp of the "green hotel" you need to walk along the gorge with the Adyl-Su water stream. The following peaks of the Elbrus region are visible from the trail: Bashkara - 4241 m, Dzhantugan - 3991 m, Chatyn - 4368 m, Ushba - 4710 m, Gumachi - 3805 m, Caucasus peak - 4037 m.
The Kashka-tash glacier hanging over the mountain ledge fills Lake Bashkarinskoye in the Adyl-Su gorge in summer. Although the water is cold, you can refresh yourself in the summer heat in the clear water of a transparent lake.
A few words about the reservoir
The water bowl was formed at the end of the 30s of the last century as a result of the melting of "dead" ice that fell off the glacier. Now the volume of the lake is 800 thousand cubic meters of water, and its depth is 33 meters. It is not the only one on the mountain. Due to the melting of the glacier, new depressions and cracks are constantly being formed, filling with water. They have not yet been mapped, but soon this will happen, as moraine lakes are growing more and more every year.
There is no surface runoff from the lake, but scientists consider it one of the most dangerous places in the Elbrus region. More than once the strength of the water mass filling the lake made itself felt by breakthroughs and the formation of mudflows. The very first collapse occurred in 1958-1959. The cause of such a disaster was the breakthrough of the grotto in the body of the glacier and the erosion of the ice dam.
Adyl-Su gorge: mudflow descent
Let's first understand what a mudflow is and how dangerous a mudflow is. During the melting of snow or glaciers and due to the abundant precipitation in the spring-autumn period, a mudflow or (in Arabic) may suddenly form. The water along the road picks up fragments of stones, rocks, has a large concentration of mineral particles and soil.
Mud is a rather thick layer of water. Although its promotion lasts only a couple of hours, it has a terrible destructive power. The mudflow speed ranges from 2-6 m / s. In the course of the current, it can lay a deep bed. Usually these are either dry places or small streams. After such a disaster, mountains of mud and stones remain, which subsequently harden.
The mudflow has a frontal part, a huge shaft that moves forward, demolishing all objects in its path. There are streams consisting of several shafts replacing each other. Such force of heavy water is accompanied by serious changes in the river bed.
Mudflow hazard
In the Adyl-Su gorge, mudflows come down quite often, especially in recent years. Everyone suffers from such a formidable force: people are dying, cars, roads, entire villages are washed into the water, the gas pipeline suffers. Some of the trapped tourists also learned the power of the mudflows. The authorities are constantly organizing rescue operations. Several towers have been built with observers who are trying to anticipate the formation of mudflows.
But, unfortunately, this is not always possible. More often, a collapse occurs with such an explosive force that the sound is carried for many kilometers. In early September 2017, a mudflow descended into the Baksan gorge of Adyl-Su, three cars with people were washed away by the mass of a stream during the failure of the highway, people died, a gas pipeline broke, several villages were left without gas. The authorities evacuated people by helicopter.
Tourist groups were cut off from the rest of the world, including children. Local residents said that they had never seen such a powerful mudflow in their lives. The road was washed away in several places, and bridges were destroyed.
If you have already skidded to Elbrus, you need to use the opportunity and at the same time walk around the surroundings. Seats in bulk, I don't want to choose) Now I want to tell you about the gorge Adyl-Su(translated as "White River"), where you can go for acclimatization, or you can just walk.
Let's start with the fact that this is a border area, and you need to get a pass to get through. It is free, and it is better to do it in advance (at least a month) by sending an application (there is a form and a sample on the website of the Russian border service) to the department where it will be convenient to receive. In the summer of 2015, a pass can be issued in three days at the branch nearest to Terskol (about twenty minutes on foot). It was necessary to come to them, fill out an application, call on the specified date to clarify whether it was ready, and come to pick up. Nothing complicated. You can also go without a pass, but it is officially allowed to go only to the alpine camp "Dzhantugan". People walk without passes, but there is a chance to run into guys in uniform, and then, as you agree on how lucky
How to get there: we are going (or we are going on foot, for the first time I got there this way, but it's far, better not worth it) from Terskol to Tenegekli village. If you are on a minibus, then ask to stop at a bend in the gorge, there the road departs from the main road. From this place to the checkpoint for a couple of kilometers, perhaps. At the checkpoint you will be counted, recorded, and if there is no pass, then they will warn you that you can only go up to the sign "Stop the passage is closed."
That is, while I don't see the sign, can I go?
So I got on Kashka-Tash glacier, where I really was not allowed, but I honestly did not know this) There seemed to be a prohibition sign on the trail before, but it disappeared somewhere, and a new one was never installed.
It’s probably about an hour to go from the checkpoint to the camp, maybe more.
The weather was cloudy, so I was in no hurry, there is still no sight. I went down to the river, crossed to the other side
Lost there until the path ended, sat on the stones, was afraid of bears
I didn't meet another bridge, so back the same way
Near the camp in the meadow there is a stone indicating column with arrows
Would you like to visit the All-Union Central Council of Trade Unions?)
I chose Turyi Lakes (the lakes are probably beautiful), crossed the river on the bridge and went. There, a crowd of military men set up a camp, they generally did not care who I was and where I was going, they only asked me not to come close to them. OK)
It was foggy that day, and in fact, I had a dim idea of where I was going. Or maybe these lakes are two days' walk away? Maybe I can't go there? And if they get caught? I'll take off my bandana to become more inconspicuous. And if I get lost? What do you mean if?)))
In the cloud, you still can't see anything, and I didn't even suspect that there was a glacier nearby. And then I turned somewhere, the wind blew and here you are)
And there was such a small, uncertain path, just down. I went along it
And when I went down and walked a little along the traverse along the loose, it turned out that she was no longer there, and I was generally somewhere deep below
But at least take a closer look!)
By this time the weather had improved, and it became clear that we needed to crawl up. On stones, roots and berries (and they just came in handy, they are delicious). Already almost from above I looked at the person below, and that's it, I didn't see anyone else.
And on the ridge it turned out that it was possible to calmly climb a good path, and not lay a new one, but as it is, but not boring
There you could fall apart, drink water, eat halva and stare at the beauty. And every five minutes, something fell off with a crash from the glacier:
How much more, I wonder, is left for him?
Having rested and regained consciousness, I ran down - this time normally, along the path. At the exit I was not asked about anything, so I didn't even have to compose anything.
The second time I returned to Adyl-Su after, and already with a pass. Now I wanted to get to the "green hotel" - a large glade under the glacier, where the base of glaciologists is still located.
We go to the alpine camp again
It takes about two hours to walk from the camp
Once you will need to cross the river along a large log (from the left bank to the right), where the wire is stretched for safety. It is important, as soon as you cross, not to go up the other path, but to continue walking along the river. In this place, the evening found me, and I’ll say right away that there is nowhere to put up a tent, you have to go to the end. Half an hour walk from the bridge to the place
Over there, beyond that small pass:
In general, be in time before dark, it is not very pleasant to jump on stones with a flashlight.
As you come out to the clearing, go behind the glaciological station, there are plenty of places for a tent closer to the glacier, and you will not interfere with anyone.
Elbrus was visible from mine in the morning:
There are clean streams, but to be honest, I was too lazy to walk to them, and boiled water from the river (it is clean, but white). I advise you not to be lazy, her taste is worse than the color)
Having got up on the clearing with the base camp, you can go to many places. I just walked and rested after the Mountain, so a little bit, just to have a look, but not to climb anywhere:
Here is such a structure near one of the houses:
Left peak - Dzhantugan
I knew nothing about the lake, there was a surprise
The beauty is there, look)
Ooozero !!!
And over there is a glacier, or rather what is left of it:
Eh, if it were not for the rush, it would be possible to stay for another day
After lunch I went back. Rest is clearly beneficial - I got out two and a half times faster than I went in.
In general, this is such a cool place, you will be there - go, you will not regret it)
A long time ago I heard from my dad the magic, mysterious word "Shkhelda". I saw this mountain range in photographs, read about it and knew that despite its relatively low altitude (4100-4300 meters above sea level), it is even more difficult than Elbrus in terms of ascents. Shkhelda (translated from the Kabardino-Balkarian "lingonberry") just needs to be seen in order to understand that you are in love with her forever.
It is through the Adyl-Su gorge ("Red water" in the lane from Turkic, or "Beautiful river" in the lane from Balkar) that you can get to Shkhelda and to most of the alpine camps that survived in Kabardino-Balkaria after the collapse of the USSR (I will not take including "Bezengi" and "Ullu-Tau"). There are several of them - right at the turn to the gorge, 200 meters from the federal highway, the Adyl-Su alpine base, after 3 km - the Shkhelda alpine camp, even further - Dzhantugan. From this gorge, the road leads to the border with Georgia, so there is a checkpoint along the way. We went to the Shkhelda alpine camp using Dasha's passports and birth certificate, but to move on, we need a pass.
The Adyl-Su gorge is one of the most beautiful in the Elbrus region and is famous as a mecca of Soviet mountaineering. To see at least the main part of its beauties, you need fast transport, a certain amount of money, as well as time (I think, a couple of days, but this is offhand). We didn't have all of this, so all that we managed in the half day that remained before leaving for Nalchik was to walk along the trail towards the Shkheldinsky massif. But even that was enough for us to want to return.
View of the Baksan gorge from the Adyl-Su gorge.
Pine forest in Adyl-Su.
We turned to Adyl-Su right after, and spent the whole second half of the day there. The asphalt road gradually gains height immediately starting from the turn from the federal highway, along it along the bank of the Adyl-Su river there is a footpath. The Forest Fairy Tale trail, which I mentioned above, passes right there. Starting in the park of the village of Elbrus, it turns from the Baksan gorge to Adyl-Su and passes through various natural attractions - you can admire the mountain river, powerful pines, beautiful flowers, thickets of raspberries and lingonberries, huge mossy boulders, find out what birds live here and etc. For a long time we could not understand what kind of thoughtful tablets ("Rock Garden", for example) accompany our path, until it dawned on us that we were walking along an ecological path. In my opinion, it is a great idea to show schoolchildren the beauty of their native land, to instill a love of nature and take a walk in the fresh air.
It is not for nothing that the Adyl-Su river is nicknamed "red" - it is filled with narzans with a high iron content, which is why the stones at the bottom of the gorge have acquired a red hue. Several springs are encountered along the path along the trail.
Stream along the way.
Memorial plaque about the deceased boy who died in the mountains (can be read, clickable).
Snowball flowing right across the road into the Adyl-Su river.
The road forks immediately after the checkpoint. The main one goes further, deep into the gorge, and we turned to the right, to the Shkhelda alpine camp, which is located on the bank of the river of the same name and at the entrance to the gorge named in her honor. The alpine camp did not "doze" at the moment of our arrival: it was deserted and quiet, and only a light at the entrance to the dining room illuminated a small circle on the concrete floor. A cheerful grandpa looked out from the window of the second floor.
The alpine camp does not work! - he said. - First arrival only from May 15th.
- And what can you see here in an hour and a half?
- Yes, Shkhelda, of course. No, you won't get to the glacier, - the old man said critically looking at our family. “You need a pass there, and you won’t make it in an hour.” But you will see the mountain from afar.
Danya fulfills the "TRP for dads" standards.
Pull-up with weights in the form of a baby. Complicated by the fact that you do not need to wake up the child.
Danya as a devil.
Old school equipment hung on a boulder in an alpine camp - probably for the instruction or inspiration of the ungrateful descendants.
The path from the alpine camp turns abruptly into the Shkhelda gorge and passes here and there through rather awkward places for passing them with a child - there are unpleasant precipices. The trail was trodden very well (after all, so many generations of climbers have passed here), but we came across a section with a snowfield flowing into the river, and we had to walk along it. The vegetation changes dramatically - from a dense pine forest, a path breaks out into an open space above the forest zone, there are already crooked birches and thorny bushes. The slopes are avalanche-prone. Plaques in memory of the dead climbers are constantly encountered - many were taken by Ushba, the routes to which also begin here.
A cliff, along the edge of which the trail runs. Below is the Shkhelda river.
On the path.
Snowball flowing down to the Shkhelda.
The first view of the Shkhelda.
A fat slug that crawled across our path.
The rhododendron has not bloomed yet.
Commemorative plaques.
Grandfather was right. In an hour and a penny, we did not reach the glacier, but, according to the map, it was not that far from us. We ran into the sign "Stop!" The control time for turning back is 19:00, the clock is already 19:20, the sun is setting, and we are still eating and taking pictures. Dasha woke up after a long trip and walks with her "legs", there is no time for exploits and marches.
Here we followed the recommendation of the stand and stopped.
From afar, we could only see a part of the Shkheldin massif, but the unexpectedly beautiful weather compensated for everything with interest. Every line was visible on the snow-white canvas of steep walls, graceful curves, toothy peaks against the background of a blue sky. Shkhelda is indeed a beauty. Words cannot convey this, but my photographs very, very distantly reflect reality. Just go there, you won't regret it.
The lobby that blocked our path behind the sign. We decided not to go any further.
You can read more about the sights of the Adyl-Su gorge here.
Epilogue
Of course, we ran out of time. Of course, you can get stuck in the Elbrus region - sometimes for life, it is so attractive. If you make a request "attractions of the Elbrus region", helpful Google or Yandex will give out a lot of links for every taste - for alpine skiing lovers, and for mountaineering, and just trekking, and for lovers of mineral springs and historical monuments, for lovers of botany and biology, glaciology and geology, for children, adolescents, adults, pensioners. But this is not what I would like to end.
I would like to remind you that, despite its accessibility, the Elbrus region is a national park, and here a certain regime of nature management is established by law, or rather, even nature conservation. An environmental fee (50 rubles or so) is paid for the presence on the territory of the park, but this does not help save it from the onslaught of civilization and the carelessness of people.
When you come here by car, you rush along the beautiful shores of Baksan, admiring the peaks and admiring the views from the window. But if you go on foot, then you see that the banks of the rivers, and sometimes the slopes of the mountains, are simply littered with garbage - beer cans, napkins, bottles, plastic, even toilet bowls (!). I consider it barbaric to come / come to the national park, or anywhere else, and leave at least a piece of paper behind.
Elbrus is not just a national park. This is the place where mountains live and where you can not only see them, but also feel them. Therefore, please, when going on a date to the mountains, behave politely and try to take care of them.
