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Chinese Venice city. Suzhou: Russian scholars and a failed attempt to see the Chinese Venice. Best time to visit Suzhou

On the western outskirts of Shanghai, there is a town called Zhujiajiao, which has a history of 1,700 years. It is one of four well-preserved ancient cities in Shanghai. However, this is not the reason tourists come here. Zhujiajiao is often called the "Venice of the East". It really looks like an Italian city on the water. The streets here replace canals, through which stone bridges are thrown. Boats with tourists scurry back and forth along the canals. There are as many tourists here as in real Venice.

Zhujiajiao was once a separate town. But Shanghai, rapidly expanding in all directions, swallowed it up and today Zhujiajiao is considered a suburb of China's largest city. You can get here from the city center by bus. However, it is not so easy to find this very bus. And the road, taking into account traffic jams, will take almost two hours. You can take a taxi, but you have to pay more than 100 yuan one way. But eat in comfort.

Walking along the canals and admiring the views in Zhujiajiao is absolutely free. If you want to see more local attractions, then you need to buy a special ticket for 60 yuan. It gives the right to visit various museums, temples, gardens.

But before exploring local museums and temples, I recommend just wandering the streets of this amazing city for a start. Moreover, there is something to see here. And at the same time and spend money.

The old part of the city is a continuous line of shops, antique and art salons, cafes and restaurants.

There are many pearl shops. I cannot judge how high-quality it is. I still don't understand anything about this. And the prices here are clearly overpriced for everything, as is always the case in popular tourist places.

Zhujiajiao is also a gastronomic paradise. True, very specific. On the surface, you can't immediately understand what is sold here and what it is made of. And in general, is it possible to eat it? Okay, we had a Russian speaking guide with us. who educated us in gastronomic matters. But all the same, I did not dare to try some exotic dish.

For those who disdain to buy food on the street, there are dozens, if not hundreds of cafes and restaurants of both Chinese and European cuisine. You can buy freshly caught crabs or fish, which will be prepared for you at the nearest restaurant. In general, you will definitely not stay hungry in Zhujiajiao.

But, of course, people go to Zhujiajiao not for souvenirs and shopping, and not in restaurants or cafes to sit. Although the town of Zhujiajiao is small, there is something to see here. There are several old gardens. The largest among them is the Ke Zhi Garden. The garden is also called the "Ma Family Garden" after its former owner, Ma Wenqin. In general, this is such a family estate. It is nice to walk along the winding paths among the trees, wander in the stone labyrinths, sit in the pavilions and pavilions and enjoy the peace and quiet. You can feed the fish in the pond. All in all, a very cute and photogenic place.

On one of the hills of the garden there is a five-storey building, the top of which is crowned with a diametrical "Lunar Pavilion". This building is considered the tallest in the city.

I also looked into the old post office, built 300 years ago! This is the oldest post office in Shanghai. Now there is a small historical museum. In general, in the old part of Zhujiajiao, many historical buildings have been preserved, built in the era of the Ming and Qing dynasties. And this is the period from the 14th to the 17th century! You won't find such ancient architectural monuments in Shanghai itself.

The town of Zhujiajiao is also famous for its bridges. In total, there are 36 of them in the old city - each of them is made in a different architectural style using different materials: wood, stone and marble. The most famous, longest, highest and probably the most ancient is the Fangsheng stone bridge (Fangsheng qiao), built in the Ming era (1571). The Fanshen Bridge is always as crowded as in the real Italian Venice on the Rialto Bridge. By the way, the name Fanshen can be translated as “the bridge of liberation”. The name comes from the old tradition of releasing all living creatures from the bridge into the water - crabs, crayfish, fish, and so on.

The most beautiful is the only wooden bridge Lang (Lang qiao), which means "veranda". It really looks like a veranda with a carved roof and timber sides.

And of course, in Chinese Venice, you should definitely ride along the canals on a local gondola. This pleasure costs from 60 to 120 yuan, depending on the length of the route. This is a fee for the whole boat, not for each passenger. So if you are traveling alone or as a couple, look for fellow travelers. Then you can save a lot.

For my subjective taste, walking along the canals is not a pleasure. Personally, I liked walking along the canals, periodically turning into various gateways or looking into one of the many cafes. And sitting by the window at a small table with a cup of fragrant Chinese tea admire the views and enjoy the atmosphere of tranquility and tranquility.


If you are traveling to Shanghai, I highly recommend going to Zhujiajiao. At least in order to escape for a day from the noisy and seething metropolis.

A wonderful city that combines both ancient culture and modern technologies. All this easily coexists in one place and complements each other, creating its own unique atmosphere. The farther from the city, the more ancient villages and settlements can be found. Traveling to such places, you involuntarily move several centuries back in time. The ancient cities that stand on the water are especially beautiful. The places described in this article are truly unique and unique. If you are lucky enough to get into one of these, then you yourself will feel it.

City on the water

Distance

Peculiarities

Commerce

Nansun

Shanghai 2h
Suzhou 1½h
Hangzhou 1½h

Traditional Chinese and Oriental architecture, indigenous people, many cultural attractions. Formerly the richest city.

Least commercial. Quiet.

Shanghai 1½h
Hangzhou ½h

Small water town with traditional architecture and bridges, indigenous people, easily accessible from Suzhou.

Least commercial. Quiet.

Shanghai 1½h
Suzhou 1h

A large number of bridges, many paths for boat trips.

Least commercial. Quiet.

Shanghai 2h
Suzhou 1h

A renovated old town with modern hotels.

Commercial.
Large flow of people.

Zhujiajiao

Shanghai 1½h

Hangzhou 1h

Near Shanghai. Suitable for a half day excursion.

Strongly commercial.
A huge stream of people.

Shanghai ½h

Very small, many old houses with beautiful architecture.

A huge stream of people.

Shanghai 1½h

Suzhou ½h

Few entertainment and shopping, singing woman on the boat.

Least commercial. Quiet.

Zhouzhuan

Shanghai 2h
Suzhou 1h

Very popular city, dirty water in summer.

Strongly commercial.
A huge stream of people.

Nanxun Ancient Town 南浔区

The ancient city of Nansun is not as popular as other famous sites of its kind, but that is what makes it so unusual. This ancient city is filled with a calm atmosphere, as there is not a huge horde of tourists. Combined with beautiful nature and amazing architecture, this place deserves to be at the top of this list.

Once here, you will fully immerse yourself in this ancient city and feel its spirit. Historic buildings and beautiful nature are what awaits you here. In addition to the beautiful architecture, there is a traditional writing brush routine and a delightful wedding show on the water. If you do not know where to go in Shanghai or its area, then visit this place and you will be delighted.

· Location: 1½ hours from Hangzhou 2 hours from Shanghai

· Activity: viewing old buildings, boating, walking, photography

· Suitable for: : those who want to see the classic Chinese water city

· Peculiarities: quiet rural town, rich cultural heritage

Tongli Water Town 同 里

It is a classic ancient water city located on the Yangtze River Delta. This is a real Chinese Venice. Almost all buildings are on the water. This is a very popular place, because the mixture of architecture and beautiful water channels makes this place very picturesque.

Fifteen pedestrian canals divide the city into 7 small islands, and they, in turn, are connected by 40 bridges. The area of ​​this miracle is 33 hectares, it is divided into 5 lakes. It is truly a water city in the truest sense of the word. If you are still thinking about how to spend time in Shanghai or its surroundings, then rather get ready and go to see this beautiful place.

· Location: close to Suzhou, 1½ hours from Shanghai

· Activity: walks, viewing old buildings along the length of the canal, photographs

· Suitable for: those who want to see the classic gardens and parks of Suzhou

· Peculiarities: few tourists

Ancient Town Xitan(Xitang Ancient Town 西塘)

This place is also quite popular. Here you can see unique architecture that you will not find anywhere else. This old town differs from others with its numerous bridges and unusual alleys.

Here you can take amazing pictures, because the place is quite quiet and there are not many shops and shops. Visiting Xitang, you can see such sights as the "Xue Family House" - a screw museum, an art gallery, a root carving museum. You can also go fishing with the locals and have dinner on the boat.

· Location: 1½ from Shanghai, Hangzhou and Suzhou

· Suitable for: those who want to swim in the tunnels and take beautiful pictures

· Peculiarities: a large number of bridges and covered water corridors

Wuzhen Water Town 乌镇

Wuzhen is one of the most famous water cities in China. Its history began over one thousand years ago. Ancient residential buildings, shops, shops and workshops are located on the banks of the canals. The main attractions of this place are various folk performances and shows.

Almost the entire western area has been restored to the "old style", but it is also easy to find really old houses here. Many people complain that the area is too commercial. But even with the many shops, restaurants and spectacles, the atmosphere of this place is amazing. In any case, you need to see it with your own eyes. By the way, if you don't know where to eat in Shanghai, then you can head here. Here you can taste delicious snacks and at the same time enjoy the beautiful views of the ancient streets

· Location: 1 hour from Suzhou, 2 hours from Shanghai

· Suitable for: those who want to see the old city at night

· Peculiarities: restored old town, very picturesque at night

Zhujiajiao Ancient Town 朱家角

It is a beautiful old city, just an hour's drive from the center of Shanghai. It is well equipped with waterways, which makes boating here a very enjoyable experience. Here you can find both small Chinese houses and majestic Chinese residences.

The complex has 36 beautiful bridges that connect everything to each other. Not far from this place is the large natural lake Dianshan. Lovers of quiet rest come there. Here you can take a boat ride, admiring the amazing nature. This is a great place for tourism, as it has almost everything you need for an unforgettable trip.

· Location: 1 hour from downtown Shanghai

· Activity: boating, walking, photography

· Suitable for: those with limited time

· Peculiarities: very busy with tourists, especially on weekends.

Qibao Ancient City (QibaoAncientTown 七QL 镇)

Perhaps this is the smallest ancient city on our entire list, but it deserves attention no less than the rest. There are only two pedestrian streets, but a large number of interesting souvenir shops and traditional Chinese eateries. If you are a lover of Chinese snacks, you will love it here.

Here you can taste and watch how the popular distilled liqueur is made at the Qibao winery. You can also visit the rather unusual museum of miniature prints of the Zhou family.

· Location: 1 an hour from downtown Shanghai by metro

· Activity: viewing ancient architecture and buying street snacks

· Suitable for: those with limited time

· Peculiarities: very small, bazaar-sized, crowded with people on weekends

Luzhi Ancient Town 甪直镇 )

This elegant water town is surrounded by five lakes and a huge variety of bridges that were built by different dynasties. The number of bridges is 41, in total four dynasties are involved. Hence, this place is also called the "Museum of Chinese Bridges".

Many ancient residences have survived, which were built by the Ming and Qing dynasties. Almost all of them have not been reconstructed, as in most other complexes. So, here you can enjoy the authentic old architecture to the fullest. The size of the entire ancient city is comparable to a hundred city blocks.

· Location:

· Suitable for: those who do not like crowds of people

· Peculiarities: beautiful water town, a singing woman on a boat swims along the canals, few paid events

Zhouzhuan Water City. (Zhouzhuang Water Town 周庄)

Zhouzhuang is the most popular and famous old water town in the area. There is a huge flow of tourists on weekends, so if you are planning a quiet, deserted vacation, then come on weekdays.

This place is famous for its well-preserved ancient residences. Here you can get to know more about ancient folk arts and crafts. Although the entire complex has long since become commercial and attracts huge flows of tourists, the views are still amazing. These places are especially loved by photographers. Morning shots come out especially well here.

· Location: close to Suzhou, 1½ hour from Shanghai

· Activity: viewing architecture, walking on the ferry, walking along the streets, photography

· Suitable for: those who want to see the classic gardens of Suzhou and take a ferry ride

· Peculiarities: the most popular water city in China, a lot of tourists, a lot of paid entertainment

Walking around such places, you involuntarily begin to understand how hard it is to settle in such a distant and unusual country like China. To better understand the Chinese mentality and easily explain to people what you want, you cannot do without a translator. Our company can provide you with a professional who will help you not only achieve understanding with the interlocutor, but will make you feel as comfortable as possible in this country.

We also organize in which you can get to know the business side of Shanghai. If you need to travel to Shanghai on business matters, we will gladly take you on tours of the best factories, plants and exhibitions in Shanghai. Contact us and you will soon become another satisfied customer.

It doesn't matter if you first set foot on Chinese soil or lived in this country for several years, traveling to China is a great way to learn more about the culture, history and life of our Chinese contemporaries. With the help of our project, you can not only expand the geography of tourist places in the country, but also learn local life hacks. Go?

Suzhou (苏州)

urban district in Jiangsu province (江苏)
the historical part of the city is located on the water
population: 2.05 million
keywords: East Venice, silk, gardens, the Great Canal of China, bridges, wedding fashion center, kunqu opera, tea house

Why Suzhou?

Suzhou has a history of 2,500 years. This city has always embodied the notion of sophistication and grace in the traditional culture of China. Today it is a modern city that has managed to organically combine history and modernity, skyscrapers and cozy, high technology and provincial pace of life.

The main attractions of the city are gardens, old streets, parks and canals. If you have long dreamed of seeing a traditional Chinese city, then you should definitely come to Suzhou. Here you will feel the unity with nature and history against the backdrop of dynamically developing modernity.

How to get there?


The best and fastest way to get to Suzhou from Shanghai is by high-speed train, but you can also take a regular train. The ticket price will start at 12.5 yuan for the slowest train, which takes up to 1 hour and 20 minutes. The train station is located north of the city center.

The second most popular way is the bus. There are four bus stations in the city that connect Suzhou with, Wuxi, Zhouzhuang and Tongli.

Where to live?

One daylight hours are enough to visit Suzhou. That is, you can leave Shanghai in the morning, spend the day in Suzhou, and return back in the evening. But if you are a big fan of bridges and canals, then here are some recommendations for choosing a hotel in Suzhou.

It is better to choose a hotel in the old town, as almost all sights are located there. The famous gardens are located in the historic center of the city and relatively close to each other. Therefore, we advise you to settle on Guanqian Street (观 前街) or Pingjiang Road (平江路). It will also be convenient to have the hotel located on Shiquan Street (十全 街) or near Suzhou University (苏州 大学). Booking sites offer a lot of options, the choice depends only on your preferences. When booking a hotel on Chinese resources, be sure to clarify whether the hotel has the right to accommodate foreigners.

How to get around?

The city has a well-developed public transport system. You will be able to use the subway (the price of the trip is from 2 to 6 yuan), buses (the ticket price is 2 yuan) and taxis (landing is 10 yuan, and the trip will cost from 15 to 60 yuan). The Suzhou subway continues to be built, so it is better to download an online map, as paper ones very quickly lose their relevance. If you want to try something unusual, we recommend using rickshaw services (starting price 2 yuan, price for long-distance travel by agreement). The original design of the strollers will not leave you indifferent.

If you like an active way of getting around, you can rent a bike. But for this you have to download one of the many mobile applications. The most popular services are Mobike and Ofo.

What to do?

Suzhou is worth going to see the gardens and canals. The first private gardens in Suzhou were built during the Eastern Han Dynasty (25-220), but private gardening, like the city itself, flourished in the 16-18 centuries. At this time, it was one of the richest cities in the country. Situated on the banks of the Great Canal, which connects the empire's granary with the capital, and close to the Yangtze, the main shipping route from west to east of the country, Suzhou was a center of trade of all Chinese importance. The decline of the city in the second half of the 19th century was provoked by the Taiping Uprising, and by the end of the 1940s, little remained of the former garden and park splendor. The restoration of gardens in the past decade and their transformation from private estates to public museums reflects their significant role in Chinese culture.

All traditional parks and gardens in China can be divided into three categories: monastic (at Buddhist temples and monasteries), imperial (including summer residences and hunting grounds) and private gardens. The latter were common in the richest cities of the empire, located near the mouth of the Yangtze: in Hangzhou, Suzhou, Shanghai, Yangzhou. They, in turn, are divided into two types: "static" and "dynamic". The first were planned in such a way that they had to be admired while sitting or standing. Therefore, when visiting such "static" gardens, it is important to know from what angle and where to look. The second, "dynamic", assumed that they would be admired while walking - their beauty is precisely in the dynamics of the changing landscape. Thus, the "Lion Grove" belongs to the first type, and the spacious Garden of a modest official is referred to the second.

The humble official's garden (拙政园)


The ticket price is 50 - 70 RMB depending on the season.

The garden was built in 1509. On an area of ​​5 hectares, there are ponds, a museum, a tea house and many pavilions. Here you can visit the Sound of Rain pavilion or walk through the “gallery of perspectives”. This is the largest garden in Suzhou. You will surely fall in love with its bridges, bamboo groves and fragrant lotus ponds. The only downside to this overly popular destination is the crowds of tourists, which can be a nuisance.

Lion Grove Garden (狮子林 园)


Ticket price 20 - 30 RMB depending on the season

The garden was built in 1342 by the Chan Buddhist monk Tianzhu in memory of his mentor. Throughout the history of its existence, the garden has been rebuilt and restored several times. The last reconstruction took place in 1926.

A special feature of the park are artificial stone slides. If you look closely and show your imagination, you can see proud lions in the stone weaves.

Garden of Matrimonial Seclusion (耦 园)


The ticket price is 15-20 RMB depending on the season.

This secluded place is located away from popular routes, and therefore there are not as many tourists here as in the rest of the gardens. The garden is an example of Chinese park art with obligatory bodies of water, bridges and canals, surrounded by traditional buildings. Here you can calmly reflect and discuss plans for the future.

Tiger Hill (虎丘)


The hill, 36 m high, is located in the northern part of the city. The area of ​​the hill is 14 100 sq. m. According to legend, the emperor He Lu (6th century BC) was buried in the depths of the hill. After burial, a white tiger came to his grave, which guards the emperor's peace to this day. In fairness, it must be said that the emperor's grave was never found. But the beautiful legend and fabulous nature attracts more and more tourists.

The outer shape of the hill resembles a tiger preparing to jump. Not far from the hill is the Sword Lake, and at the top of the hill is the Chinese "Leaning Tower of Pisa" - Yunyan Pagoda (云岩寺 塔). The height of the pagoda is 47 m, and the angle of inclination is 3 degrees.

Grand Canal (大 運河)


It is undoubtedly one of the main attractions of Suzhou. You cannot leave the city on the water without taking a cruise boat ride along the Grand Canal. The canal was built for almost 2,000 years and is still the most important waterway in China. The length of the canal is 1782 km, and with branches - 2470 km.

During the cruise, you will be able to watch a short performance pintang(评弹). This performance of ballads accompanied by traditional instruments is one of the hallmarks of Suzhou. All ballads are performed in the local dialect at.

Silk Museum (苏州 丝绸 博物馆)


The ticket price is 15 yuan.

Suzhou is famous for its silk and silk products. For 4,000 years now, great masters have been creating unique pieces. It was here that the technology for the production of silk thread from cocoons was developed. In the museum, you will not only learn the history of silk production, but also see the entire production process: from caterpillars to finished products. And on the ground floor in the shopping pavilion, you can buy a silk dress, bathrobe, bed linen and much more.

Photo by Alina Kochetova was used for the title illustration.

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Not far from Shanghai, in the Jiangsu province, is the beautiful city of Suzhou, for which the second name is firmly entrenched - the Chinese Venice, the city of gardens and canals. The historical center of Suzhou, around which the modern urban district is located, stands on the Great China Canal between Shanghai and Wuxi, which was built for two thousand years, and for many centuries was the most important transport and commercial center of the Jiangnan region - the richest part of the country. For us, Suzhou has become a city of dogs and many small craft shops. The Venetian Marco Polo visited Suzhou in the XII century, it was he who came up with the name for this settlement - the Chinese Venice. Wealthy officials of the Celestial Empire laid out their gardens here, now these gardens are included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. Today Suzhou is a modern city with metro and skyscrapers, which has preserved a cozy old center with low canal houses and magnificent gardens hidden behind high walls.



How to get to Suzhou

There is no airport in the city, and the nearest one is in Shanghai. The distance from Shanghai to Suzhou is 80 km, a little less than an hour by train. Cheap flights from Moscow to Shanghai.

We arrived in Suzhou on a high-speed train from Shanghai and at first thought we would see a small provincial town in Jiangsu province. It turned out that this is a modern metropolis. The fare for the Shanghai-Suzhou train is 39.5 yuan. You can read about Chinese trains and how to buy tickets for them in the article.


From the station, you can walk to the northern pagoda and the humble official's garden, or take the metro to him or other attractions. There is a tourist information center at the station where you can borrow a free Suzhou map with subway maps and attractions.

Suzhou subway map

The Suzhou Metro has been operating since 2012 and this is immediately noticeable, especially compared to Shanghai. The metro is very clean and light. At one of the stations, Seryozha approached a vending machine, where something was being sold for one yuan, and decided to buy it by all means. It turned out to be paper handkerchiefs!


You can buy tickets from the machine, like in other metro stations in Chinese cities. How to do this can be found in the article. Suzhou Metro Map:


From Shanghai, you will arrive at the train station, which is located at Suzhou Railway Station.

Where to stay in Suzhou, city hotels

In fact, if you go to see most of Suzhou's gardens, one day is not enough for you! Therefore, it is worth considering staying in Suzhou for a few days. You can choose a cozy hotel for yourself. Hotels of the city of Suzhou.

What to see in Suzhou, sights of the city, map of the center

Suzhou Attractions Map:


Suzhou canals

Suzhou was built in 541 BC. NS. King He Lue. In terms of its historical and cultural significance, Suzhou ranks third after Beijing and Xi'an. It is also one of four tourist cities under the Chinese government's special environmental protection. Three other cities enjoying this privilege are Beijing, Hangzhou and Guilin. In 1997, Suzhou attracted the attention of the world community - this year UNESCO decided to add its classical gardens to the list of world cultural heritage. Suzhou is located on the Great China Canal, one of the oldest hydraulic structures preserved in the world today. The canal was built over two thousand years - from the 6th century. BC NS. until the XIII century. n. NS. Currently, it is one of the most important inland waterways of the PRC, which connects the country's major ports of Shanghai and Tianjin.


The length of the canal is 1782 km, and with branches to Beijing, Hangzhou and Nantong - 2470 km. The width in the narrowest part in Shandong and Hebei provinces is 40 m, in the widest part in Shanghai - 350 m. lakes. For the most part, the canal passes through flat territory, but in some places there are hills. Therefore, the canal is equipped with a system of locks invented in the 10th century. In 2014, the Grand Canal was included in the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Suzhou is often called the Venice of China. True, gondolas do not float along the canals, but pleasure boats and various barges float. Some even seem to live on:



The historical part of Suzhou is surrounded by a fairly wide bypass channel that encloses it in a rectangle. You can sail along it on a pleasure boat.


Suzhou and Venice are twin cities, as evidenced by a gift from the Italians, a gondola that strangely decorates the lawn in the park at the Panmen Gate.


Along the canals in Suzhou, there are low white houses where people live.

Panmen Park and Gate

Suzhou is a city of gardens and parks. We decided to start our tour from the park at the Panmen Gate, which are located in the southwest of the city and have come down to us since the time of ancient Suzhou. In ancient times, Suzhou was decorated with 16 gates: 8 ground and 8 water, which were eventually destroyed. Built in the 6th century, the Panmen Gate was and remains the only gate on land and water. Their name means "gate of the coiled dragon". The current gate was built in 1351 during the Yuan Dynasty (1206-1368) and was repaired several times in later dynasties.

The nearest metro station to the gate and park is Nanmen. From it you still have to walk about 15 minutes. On the way from the metro we met shopping streets with various shops. The formidable guards of the heavenly lions of the Buddha are not respected here at all, they put the goods right on them.

It was no longer possible to surprise us with carcasses of birds on the street.

And this is a special dish for steamed Chinese dumplings.

At the entrance to the park we are greeted by such a gate and a cow. The entrance to the park is paid, the cost is 40 yuan.



The famous gate is now part of the Panmen Landscape Park, which tourists know less and visit less often than the much-publicized gardens of the humble official and master of the nets. But in fact, Panmen Park is beautiful and interesting and not as crowded as the others.

In the park, you can see the oldest Suzhou Pagoda - Ruiguang or the Pagoda of the Good Glow. The pagoda has 7 tiers. The pagoda is said to have been built in 247.

The kimono bought for Japan, unfortunately, has not gone there yet, but found itself in Suzhou.

In addition to the pagoda in the park, you can see temples, canals and bridges and feed the fish.



Despite January, flowers bloom in the park.


Dragons adorn the temple.



The park is quite large and we spent a lot of time on it. Then we had a plan to visit a couple more gardens, and we went to the subway.

Next to the Panmen Gate is the Wumen Bridg. It was built in 1084 and is the tallest ancient bridge in Suzhou.


Next to the park is the Pan Pacific Suzhou, styled as an ancient city wall. Pan Pacific Suzhou Hotel in Suzhou.

If you stay at this hotel, admission to the park will be free.


Northern Temple Pagoda

After visiting Panmen Park, we took the subway to two other parks-gardens, and got off at the Beisita subway station. It turned out that the station was named after the pagoda, which is located nearby. Northern Temple Pagoda - Its Chinese name is Beisita. It is the tallest pagoda in Suzhou and was built from 1131 to 1162.

Humble Official's Garden (Zhuozhenyuan)

From the pagoda of the northern temple, we went to the Garden of a humble official (ruler) - the Hamble Administrator's Garden. It is the most famous and most visited garden in Suzhou. But when we came to him, we saw only walls and closed gates. The garden was no longer working. Arriving in Suzhou at lunchtime, we managed to visit only one garden - Panmen. The gardens close early in the winter.


The humble ruler's garden was built in 1509 during the Ming Dynasty by the former state censor Wang Xiancheng, who, according to legend, was removed from office for bribery. The garden is considered one of the outstanding examples of traditional Chinese gardening art. The main part of the garden is a huge pond with fill islands connected to each other by zigzag covered bridges. The main architectural structure of the central part of the park's garden is the pavilion of "elusive aromas", inside which one can feel the scent of lotuses growing in the pond. The garden got its name from the classic character, "a modest official" who devoted himself to gardening, from the work of the poet Yue Pan "The Bachelor". "... I enjoy a quiet life, building my house and growing trees in the garden ... I water the garden and grow vegetables for myself ... after my retirement, such a secluded life makes me happy ..."


The garden consists of east, west and central parks, as well as the residences of the former owners of the garden. Entrance to the park in low season costs 70 RMB, and in high season (from April to October) - 90 RMB. The garden is open from 7 am to 5:30 pm. The lotuses bloom in the park from June to September. Beisita metro station. The site of the humble official's park (Zhuozhenyuan).

Lion Grove Garden (Shizilin)

It is located near the garden of a humble official. But when we approached it, it was already closed too. This garden was founded in 1342 by a Buddhist monk named Tianzhu in honor of his teacher Zhi Zheng. It is said that Zhi Zheng reached nirvana at the Lion's Peak of Tianmu Mountain, located in Zhengjiang Province, which is why the garden was named Lion Grove. A characteristic feature of this picturesque park are artificial stone slides, resembling in their shapes a variety of lions, and green spaces, curved in a spiral and forming a labyrinth. The garden is open from 7:30 am to 5:30 pm, entrance fee is 40 RMB. Beisita metro station. Site of the Lion Grove Park (Shizilin).


Network Master's Garden

The Netmaster's Garden is a small yet most exquisite landscaped garden in Suzhou. This garden is also sometimes called the Fishing Master's Garden. The garden is located on an area of ​​0.6 hectares. This graceful structure is a typical example of a bureaucratic residence of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). The garden that we see today was laid out on the site of the former mansion of one of the officials who served here during the reign of the Song dynasty (960-1279). The new owner of the Garden of the Master of Nets, Song Zong Yuan, chose this name for his garden in memory of the former name of this place - the Fisherman's Refuge. This garden is small, but remarkable in every sense. It has a very picturesque pond in its center. Many beautiful plants grow around the pond, there are specially installed stones. There are also pavilions and stone bridges in the garden. The garden is open from 7:30 am to 5:00 pm and entrance fee is 40 RMB.


The netmaster's garden looks very different after dark when the lanterns are lit. The atmosphere in the garden becomes truly magical. The garden hosts a variety of shows in the evenings, such as the Kunqiu Opera (Suzhou Opera) performances. Artists in national costumes come, perform old folk songs and dances, play ancient musical instruments. Performances are held in many halls, pavilions and rooms at the same time, so visitors have the opportunity to get acquainted with different types of art in one evening. Garden Evening Shows run from 19:30 to 22:00 every evening from mid-March to mid-November. Visitors can buy tickets for both just visiting the garden and special tickets for evening performances (RMB 100). The nearest metro stations are Yangyu Xiang and Chayuanchang. Site of the network master park.

Tiger hill

On Tiger Hill there is a local leaning tower - Yunyan ta pagoda. The seven-story Yunyan Pagoda was built in 961. It began to "fall" to the northwest of the central axis from the middle of the 17th century. Tiger Hill, also known as Raging Sea Hill, is located in the northwestern part of Suzhou. Its height is 36 m. According to one of the legends, somewhere in the bowels of the hill near the Sword Lake is hidden the tomb of the emperor He Lu, who ruled in 722 - 464. BC. They say that when the emperor was buried, a white tiger came to the entrance to the tomb and remained to guard the rest of the deceased. This is one of the most popular attractions in Suzhou - 1.5 million tourists visit it annually. Entrance to the park costs 80 RMB in high season and 60 RMB in low season. You can get to the park by buses # 1 and # 2, departing from the railway station. Site of the park Tiger Hill.


Suzhou City Museum

The Suzhou City Museum was designed by the legendary architect Bei Yumin, the creator of the famous glass pyramid of the Louvre in Paris. It attracts attention not only with its exhibits, but also with its appearance, which combines traditional Chinese style and futurism. Located next to the garden of a humble official. Opening hours: 9:00 am to 5:00 pm from Tuesday to Sunday. The entrance is free. Site of the Suzhou City Museum.


Suzhou Silk Museum

Suzhou is called the city of silk - silk and embroidery for the imperial court was made here. The Suzhou Sichou Bowuguan Silk Museum was the first in China. The museum has a small silk factory that acts as a show for tourists. There is also a silk shop where you can buy Suzhou Chinese embroidery and silk embroidery kits. Site of the Suzhou Silk Museum.

Dogs in Suzhou

Traveling around China, at first we practically did not see dogs, while in European countries we very often meet dogs and their owners. The first dogs we met at the bus station in Guilin. Read about our adventures in Guilin in the article. The topic of dogs in China is complex, sometime during the "Cultural Revolution" in the 1960s. dogs fell into disgrace and began to be considered a sign of the upper class and attributes of luxury. Often, fearing possible consequences, dog owners themselves got rid of their four-legged "class symbols". And taking into account the fact of an acute shortage of food in the country, the dogs were literally doomed. Some Chinese dog breeds nearly disappeared, such as Shar Pei and Tibetan Mastiffs. Now the Chinese are acquiring pets again, but in some places they still eat dogs. In some cities there are laws limiting the number of dogs in a family to one, rules are being introduced for registering dogs in the city. Apparently for these reasons, we have not seen as many dogs as, for example, in Italian cities. It was Suzhou that became the "City of Dogs" for us, where four-legged pets could be seen very often. Here is a doggie basking in the sun outside a shop in Suzhou.


And here the dog, together with the owner, is waiting for a traffic light at a pedestrian crossing.


Dogs in suits:


Security guard in the store:


The dog is a security guard in the store. Suzhou. China.

On a walk:


And this kid was walking alone in the city at night:

In one shop we met such a wonderful cat:

Suzhou shops

There are a lot of interesting shops and shops in Suzhou. On the way to the gardens, we saw many of them.





For example, here is a store where you can buy fans, and there is a master who makes them.

All kinds of fans you will not see, from cheap to very expensive handmade.




In this shop there was also a feathered worker who greeted all visitors and said: "Ni Hao!" Watch the video about Suzhou where there is both this bird and an overview of Suzhou.

Suzhou food

Suzhou is famous for its gourmet cuisine, which dates back to the "boat dishes" of the Tang Dynasty. At that time, many noble people held banquets on boats, so that they could enjoy not only delicious food, but also the beautiful scenery. Since the kitchens on the boats were small, the chef tried to compensate for the small portions with taste. And in our time, Suzhou cuisine has retained its characteristics: sweetness, lightness, high-quality ingredients. Vegetable and fish dishes are especially popular. When we wanted to eat we went to a local diner. At first they tried to give us a small menu in English with the most expensive dishes, but we looked at what the customers were eating and asked for the same. We ate our favorite dumplings again and sampled the soup, which also turned out to be with dumplings!


On the street, Seryozha could not resist and decided to try street food - a local oriental sweetness. But she turned out to be somehow tasteless.


Where to go from Suzhou

The surroundings of the city are also very interesting.

Zhouzhuang City on the Water

Zhouzhuang is one of the most picturesque and famous Chinese cities on the water, located in Kunshan County, just 30 km southeast of Suzhou. The ancient town stands on the Jinghang Canal, which connects Suzhou with Shanghai. The city is widely renowned for its romantic atmosphere, charming views and well-preserved old residential buildings, elegant bridges and rich cultural heritage. The streets of the city are canals, on the banks of which are built houses with white walls and curved tiled roofs. Centuries ago, residents moved along these streets exclusively by boats. One of the city's most famous bridges, Shuangqiao (Double Bridge), is considered the symbol of Zhuzhuang. The bridge was built in the Ming era during the reign of the Wangli emperor (1573 - 1619) and consists of two bridges - Shideqiao and Yunanqiao, forming the letter "G" and connecting two rivers - Yinzi and Nanbei.


Tunli city on the water

Tongli, a tiny water town, is only 18 km from Suzhou on the road to Taihu Lake. You can get from Suzhou by bus from the north or south bus station. Tunli is an excellent example of Chinese cities on the water: only 15 rivers pass through the historical center, connected by fifty bridges. Boats continue to be the main means of transport for the 10,000 local residents in the central region. Thanks to this, an extraordinary silence reigns in the city, so unusual after visiting Shanghai. The main attraction of the city is the bridges built in different eras and reflecting different architectural styles. 49 bridges connect seven islands formed by 15 rivers and 5 lakes, on which the city stands. Each bridge has its own unique poetic name. The most famous bridges are Taiping (Bridge of Great Peace), Jili (Bridge of Well-being) and Changqing (Bridge of Eternal Festival). In the city they are called the "Triple Bridge".


Tunli is often referred to as the "Ming and Qing Dynasty Architecture Museum." Indeed, the city has retained its ancient appearance, and among the ancient traditional Chinese houses where the Chinese continue to live, there are interesting architectural monuments - manors with gardens and temples built along the river banks.


It's funny that such a romantic and ancient place like Tunli was chosen to open China's first museum of sexual culture, apparently to lure tourists from neighboring Zhouzhuang. The museum is divided into four parts: "Sex in a primitive society", "Marriage and women", "Sex every day" and "Non-traditional sex". Inside, there are about 2,000 exhibits showing the development of sexual culture in China from ancient times to the present day. Entrance to the museum is from the age of 18 and costs 20 RMB.

We liked the city, in good weather, taking into account the visit to the suburbs, you can come here for 3 days, at least. The next day we went to the city, to be continued ...

For more information about the final route through China, read the article. There you can see a map of this route. Also in this article we tell about each city, in which hotels we stayed, how much the trip cost, and where you could save money.

Read the continuation about China and about each city of our trip in. , and the acquisition of universal. And the moneybags can just

I had a free minute, and I decided to visit the glorious city of Suzhou. Have you heard about this beautiful city? Well ... This is Chinese Venice and Pisa at the same time. There are actually a lot of "Chinese Venice". I'm already confused about them. Four years ago I went to the city of Zhouzhuang, which is also not far from Shanghai and is also considered the Chinese Venice. To be honest, I'm still not sure if these are different places. From the photographs - the same thing. In general, the Chinese have a very peculiar attitude to their sights. If somewhere there is some kind of historical monument, then it is not a sin to demolish it, but to build the same one in its place, only better. If a monument is popular with tourists, then it can be replicated throughout the country. There are many people in China, but there is not enough beauty for everyone.

So, Suzhou is famous for the fact that there are bridges and canals along which boats sail. There is also the Yunyang Pagoda, which falls like the Leaning Tower of Pisa, and the classic Chinese gardens. But most importantly, Suzhou has a huge industrial park and a university campus, where I was invited to look at a local laboratory.

01. Let's start with the university. A giant industrial park has been built on the territory of Suzhou. It began to be created back in 1994 by joint efforts of the authorities of China and Singapore. The industrial park is the size of an entire city (288 sq. Km), and about a tenth of it is occupied by a university town named after Lake Dusu.

The University of Oxford, the University of California, the French business school SKEMA opened their branches here, and the main result of the cooperation of the Chinese with Europeans and Americans was the opening in 2006 of the independent university Xi'an Jiaotong-Liverpool.

As for the Suzhou University itself, it is the key one for the Jiangsu province. It includes several higher schools at once - in fact, independent universities (the most authoritative of them are Light Industry, Chemical Technology and Materials, Humanities and Medicine). Now here you can get a master's degree in 244 specialties.

02. University building.

Suzhou University, which is consistently among the six hundred in the world ranking of universities by the Times, is part of Project 211, which brings together the best universities in China. Project 211 is the 116 best universities in the country (this is only 6% of the total number of higher educational institutions), which are responsible for the training of scientists and scientific developments in key areas. They account for 80% of all doctoral students and half of foreign students. In addition, Project 211 universities consume 70% of research funding in the PRC.

The university territory consists of 6 campuses with a total area of ​​135 hectares. The total number of students is 39,000. The total population of the entire university city this year was supposed to reach 400 thousand people.

03. Library

04. Apparently, the university project was stolen from another region. In Suzhou, the weather is not good enough to open galleries in the building. As a result, everything gets a little wet and falls apart.

05. And the building is new!

06. This is Vsevolod. He graduated from the Chemistry Department of Moscow State University and is now engaged in organic chemistry research at the University of Suzhou.

07. It's cold in the laboratory, and students wear down jackets under their robes.

08. Funny

09.

10. If I understood anything about chemistry, I would tell you what is happening in this picture.

11. As I understand it, some kind of fluorescent powders are being made here.

12. Is everything clear?

13. The weather is good today! No, the Chinese are not looking at the thermometer, but at the level of air pollution. On other days, it is better not to go outside without a mask.

14. There is a subway in Suzhou. In general, there are now about 25 operating metro systems in China, seven more will open during 2016, three systems will appear in 2017 and 2018. Add to this a dozen projected systems and 15 pieces that are currently under discussion. In addition, there are still all sorts of light rail lines, but that's another story.

It should be noted here that it is not enough for the Chinese to build two stations and a section between them to report on the opening of a metro in a city. If a subway appears somewhere, then this is a full-fledged system of two or three lines and 30-40 stations. By 2020, the metro will already be in every Chinese village in the province, fortunately, there are 60 millionaire cities in the country.

15. Station design

16. Basically, all Chinese subways are the same.

17. The paths are either completely closed with glass, or there is simply a fence.

18. The ceilings are almost always low, the stations are cramped, there is no Russian scale.

19.

20. But at each station there is a toilet.

21. There are either elevators or escalators everywhere.

22. Wagon

23. It rained all day.

24. Honestly, I was not ready for this.

25.

26. As a result, the walk through Chinese Venice was limited to short dashes under the canopies of buildings.

27. Market

28.

29.

30. Pedestrian street for tourists

31. Beauty

32. Bridge

33. In such a rain, there were almost no tourists, and so crowds of Chinese walk around here. Suzhou is considered one of the main centers of domestic tourism in China. They come here mainly for history: already in the middle of the 1st millennium BC. the city "rose" to the capital. Of course, on this territory since then the darkness of states and dynasties has been replaced, but nevertheless. Suzhou has been known as a major center for the production of natural silk for a couple of thousand years.

34. Boats.

The Great Canal of China, on which Suzhou stands, is a landmark in itself. This is a gigantic hydrotechnical structure, which was built for two thousand years and finished in the XIII century. The narrow canals that run through the city center were needed (as, indeed, everywhere else) to regulate the water level.

35. Quite a nice place, actually.

36. You can come here for half a day from Shanghai, only in good weather.

37. Walk along the canals.

38. Take a boat ride.

39. Mostly people go to Suzhou to wander through its gardens. The gardens here are very different, here are the landscape and architectural styles of a number of dynasties. There is even a place called the Garden of the Humble Official) It was designed by the famous Chinese artist and calligrapher Wen Zhenming. Most of the gardens, by the way, were once built as bureaucratic dachas. It is a pity that many of the gardens are a "new building": the original ones were destroyed during the Japanese occupation of the city. This time I did not reach the gardens because of the downpour.

40.

41.

42. Tourists

43. The most convenient way to get to Suzhou is by train! From Shanghai Central Station to Suzhou, take the high-speed train for 30 minutes. In the morning and in the evening, trains run every 15 minutes, in the afternoon - every 30-40 minutes. The ticket costs 400 rubles.

44. At the entrance, everyone is inspected, the entrance to the station building is only for tickets, all things are passed through a scanner.

45. Navigation

46. ​​No smoking!

47. Don't litter!

48. An ordinary provincial Chinese railway station.

49. Exit to the platform

50.

51. Train

52. Suzhou is good, but Shanghai is better!

Continue tomorrow.