Address: Russia, Republic of Crimea, 14 km from the city of Bakhchisarai
Founded: at the end of the 6th century
Coordinates: 44 ° 36 "31.6" N 33 ° 44 "25.3" E
The cave city of Eski-Kermen is located in the forest-steppe foothills in the south-west of the Inner ridge of Crimea. The plateau, where in the 6th century a settlement with the Tatar name "old fortress" appeared, is a steep dining mountain, stretching from north to south for more than one kilometer. The territory of the settlement occupies 8.5 hectares, and on three sides it is protected by sheer cliffs up to 30 m high.
General view of Eski-Kermen
How Eski-Kermen was built
Despite its considerable age and rather large size, cave city Eski-Kermen is still one of the least studied archaeological sites of Crimea. As the historical chronicles testify, the construction of the settlement began at the end of the 6th century. Approximately in the 80s of the VIII century, the Khazars seized the settlement. However, little is known to historians about what happened in these lands over the next two centuries. In the 9th and 10th centuries, Eski-Kermen was a sparsely populated town, but from the second half of the 10th century it began to be actively built up.
After the attack on the peninsula of the Golden Horde Nogai (1299), the settlement fell into decay, and during the raid of Edigey it was completely destroyed. In 1578, diplomat and writer Martin Bronevsky arrived from Poland to the Eski-Kermen plateau with the aim of inspecting it, but found only ruins here. According to him, they were so ancient that neither the Greeks, nor the Tatars, nor the Turks remembered the names of the temples and buildings that stood here earlier. Bronevsky noted that the name of the city Eski-Kermen really suits him, since it looks like a very old fortress.
Casemate
In the 18th century, the local population of the peninsula no longer remembered the existence of dead city that was once lively and prosperous. However, cave cities are of considerable scientific interest to modern researchers. Mysterious city on the mountain plateau is also attractive for tourists.
What the caves of the ancient city look like
In the settlement of Eski-Kermen and on the adjacent territory there are more than 400 ancient cave structures. On the plateau itself, there are over 350 caves. That is why Eski-Kermen is recognized as the "most cave" of all Crimean cave settlements. At the same time, most of the caves are located on the edges of the cliffs in the southern part of the fortified city. According to archaeologists, the share of economic caves is 85% of their total. All other structures were either defensive or cult. That is, the caves were used mainly not for housing, but for meeting household needs.
Casemates on the east slope
The population of the city was engaged in agriculture. In the fertile valleys, the locals planted orchards, vineyards and cultivated vegetable gardens. This is confirmed by archaeologists' fruit presses and wild grape bushes.
All cave structures are different in shape and size. The smallest of them occupy 6 sq. m, and the area of the largest reaches 100 sq. m. As for the shapes of the caves, in Eski-Kermen they are both oval and rectangular, but with rounded corners, and even irregular in shape. Stone rings and a manger were found inside the household caves, and this suggests that livestock were kept here. Scientists noticed that some of the animal quarters were carved into the rocks next to grain pits - storage facilities from the early Middle Ages.
Temple "Judgment"
Insofar as ancient city was built as a fortress, in case of a long siege by the enemy, a siege well was provided. You can find it by following the path along the cliff to the eastern part of the plateau. Here, above the steep cliffs, you can see a quadrangular hole, which serves as the entrance to the well. To descend, there is a steep staircase carved into the rock, which abuts against a 10-meter gallery. From its ceiling, water seeped into the "heart" of the well. Archaeologists suspect that in this place a spring made its way through the rock, the water from which the ancient builders managed to intercept right in the limestone mass. According to the approximate calculations of scientists, the siege well could hold up to 75 cubic meters of water. Such a volume of liquid was quite enough to meet all the needs of a settlement surviving a siege.
Temple of the Three Horsemen
An ancient temple dedicated to the Three Horsemen
The Temple of the Three Horsemen is located in a large piece of rock and is equipped with two aisles. High benches line the walls between them. Sunlight enters the room through two small windows. On the right side of the southeastern entrance, there is a side-altar with a niche, which are arranged over a small grave. There is another burial place near the northern wall. Most likely, the deceased lying in both graves were revered by local residents. Here, for example, there is a niche with a cross and recesses carved into the stone for the installation of candlesticks.
The northern wall of the shrine, adjacent to the larger grave, is decorated with a fresco depicting three warriors on horseback. Their cloaks flutter in the wind, and the riders hold sharp-pointed spears in their hands. Although there are no signatures here, the average rider can be recognized immediately - this is St. George the Victorious, who struck a serpent wriggling on the ground with a spear. Other riders hold their spears with their points up. A boy is seen next to the right rider on a horse, holding on to the bow of the saddle.
Fresco in temple of Three horsemen
At the bottom of the unusual fresco there is a Greek saying that the holy martyrs are here for the salvation of human souls and forgiveness of sins. The figures of the riders are surrounded by a muted blue background, but their halos are painted with catchy golden paint. The green field on which the horses are walking is also striking. Historians attribute this commemorative painting to the 12th - early 13th centuries. The temple was built in the same period, that is, on the eve of the invasion of the Tatar troops on the Crimean peninsula.
The main gate is the entrance to the city
The main gate was located in the south of the plateau, at the very beginning of a rock cut, similar to a corridor. Today, only traces remain of the double-leaf structure that opened inward. It is noteworthy that they were locked from the inside with wooden beams. The defenders of the city led them into the limestone walls only at the time of the siege. At the same time, the upper bar entered the wall from the west, and the lower one - from the east, into a special square nest cut from the stone.
Main entrance
The passage to the main gate to the city is cut through the limestone mass. It marked the beginning of the main street. Additional caves can be seen in its western part. From one of them one could climb to the gate tower, where the gatekeeper's room was located. It is difficult for archaeologists to judge whether there were any gate structures nearby, since only cuttings in limestone and fragments of stones have survived from them.
The temple with the baptismal font is a holy meeting place for believers
Inside the rock, next to the main gate, there is a temple with a place for baptism. The construction works date back to the 6th-7th centuries. The construction of various defensive structures falls on the same period of time. The cave temple was large in size and received parishioners through two entrances separated by a window. They should be approached from the side of the corridor leading to the main gate.
View of the entrance to the cave temple "Assumption"
As expected, an altar is installed opposite the entrance to the temple, and a bench runs along the semicircle of its niche. It is a syntron equipped with a bishop's chair. The altar part is made as a separate section of the temple. It was separated by a barrier from the "royal gates" and was decorated with frescoes. In the center, on the ceiling, there was a ring for placing the lamp. The niche carved out next to the altar was supposedly used for prayer books. And to the left of the altar was the baptismal font itself.
Church of the Assumption - old frescoes
The cave temple of the Assumption is very unusual. Its small and cramped altar looks like a niche-apse and occupies an unusual place in the corner. A miniature throne-pedestal is attached to the wall and has a recess in which the relics were kept. If you take a closer look at the design of the temple, you will notice that earlier its premises were used for other, non-cult purposes. You can understand this by the hole in the ceiling, which is now covered with a slab.
Inside the cave temple "Assumption"
It looks like there was a granary pit and a large water tank here. In the process of examining the temple premises, archaeologists concluded that the cistern was subsequently expanded and used as a winery. This conjecture is confirmed by the ram, which is preserved here, that is, a press press for grape berries.
The temple is decorated with paintings that have survived only partially. On the ceiling you can see the image of the biblical scenes of the Nativity and Baptism, and the decoration of the altar niche is the figure of Christ, covered with a purple cloak. The Son of God sits on a golden throne. On either side of him, the apostle and the virgin Mary are standing in full growth. The paintings on the altar wall have not survived.
Hey! I continue to talk about one of the most interesting mountain routes Crimea. A trip to the cave city of Eski-Kermen can take a whole day, and I have it in two articles. (). In the first part, I talked about the northern and central parts excursion route, about what to take with you to the cave city and what to pay special attention to.
It's time to take a look at the main street of the city, rock temples and a short overview video. At the end of my review, I will tell you how to get to Eski-Kermen.
The southern slope of Eski-Kermen. (photo from the site sergeydolya.livejournal). This is the main entrance to the cave city. We climbed a plateau in the north and descended in the south, and vice versa.
Cave temple "Assumption"
We went into the cave-temple "Assumption". To the right of the entrance is a small altar and old frescoes, or rather what remains of them.
Near the other wall there is a tarapan - a special stone container for grapes. Such assumptions were made after archaeologists examined the details, the holes for the lever and the reservoir for the grape juice.
In the middle there is a large depression - a water tank. And to me, this construction reminded me of a trap, to fall there right from the threshold and get injured, it costs nothing.
Well-groomed fields and gardens are visible from the height of the cliff.
South slope and main street
Since we tried to look into each cave, we went to the southern slope of the table mountain in two hours. I can say with confidence that central part the fortifications are the most interesting.
Going out to the only surviving street of the cave city, you forget that you are high in the mountains. The whole atmosphere is more like a movie set. A cut road for carriages runs along the main street, the deep track is especially impressive.
A track with a track leads from the main South Gate to the central city square, which is hidden in the thickets of the cave city.
Basilica ("Judgment Seat")
Near the former customs office, which “gives good”, there is the most photogenic cave-temple, with a prayer book, cells - a basilica or “Judgment”. Inside, stone benches, tombs, columns and the remains of the throne are clearly visible.
According to archaeologists, there was something like our administration here.
Walking through the numerous halls is incredibly interesting! Mentally you return to the depths of centuries.
The fortress was plundered and destroyed by the Khazars, after which a densely populated city with whole neighborhoods arose in its place.
In front of you is the main gate to the Eski-Kermen fortress.
In the first part, I showed you the place where the episodes of the film "9th Company" were filmed, and here is another one.
Of course, the current state of the main gates to the city bears little resemblance to the previous one. On the basis of small details and cuttings in stones, archaeologists determined exactly where the tower and the fortress walls were located.
The fortress was finally destroyed during the time of the Golden Horde, the plateau was overgrown with dense forest and only rocky holes and galleries remind of the old times of the unique fortress.
I can say without exaggeration that Eski-Kermen is an amazing historical monument with breathtaking views and cave labyrinths.
Following the signs, when leaving the city, you need to turn left. Down the slope there is a path along which you can go down the mountain, and at the same time look into another interesting temple.
Temple of the Three Horsemen (XIII century)
In the southeast the side of the mountain, in on a small rock there is a functioning temple of the Three Horsemen. We were a little late, the sun was already setting and the temple was closed. Through the lattice doors one could see all the decoration of the small temple.
Such beautiful name the temple is worn thanks to the preserved fresco, which is located inside on the north wall.
One rider kills the serpent, it is clear that this is St. George the Victorious, but who the other two riders are is not known for sure.
Notice how the column in the center has been preserved.
Russian Orthodox Church recognizes the holy places of Eski-Kermen. Divine services, baptism and weddings take place here.
At the foot of the mountain, two were waiting for us ... One, and at all, kindly escorted us to the car and even tried to get into it. A funny and very kind donkey.
We went down from the southern slope and along the path went to the northern one, where there was a parking lot. The slopes of the neighboring mountain Zangurma-Kobalar towered very close.
Due to the color of the rocks, the Zangurma-Kobalar grottoes seem to be marble.
The most beautiful part of the rock. Click on the photo, who do you see on the left? In their reports, tourists call this rock - "elephant", and I see a cobra with a hood ...
We didn't have enough time to explore the equally beautiful Zangurma plateau, so we decided to continue our trip next time. For mountain lovers, the cave city of Eski-Kermen and the grottoes of Zangurma-Kobalar are just paradise on earth! Fantastic landscapes!
My video about the cave city of Eski-Kermen.
November day was quickly coming to an end, but the tradition must not be broken! When the whole company was assembled, we went to a picnic. A few kilometers from Eski-Kermen there is a reservoir, popularly called the "white wall".
The entrance to Eski - Kermen is paid.
Price (November 2014): adult ticket -80 rubles, children ticket - 50 rubles.
How to get to Eski-Kermen:
From Bakhchisarai along the highway T0117, through the village. Holmovka. Distance - 24 km. Drive up to the northern part of the plateau.
From Sevastopol to Eski-Kermen along the H19 highway through the village. Ternovka. Distance - 34.5 km. Drive up to the southern part of the plateau.
If you are traveling in your own car, get ready to cross a section of the "front" road. It is located at the entrance to Eski-Kermen from the side of Bakhchisarai and with. Tank. The car will pass, but the jeep will be more reliable. There are deep ditches, so consider the weather.
On public transport to p. Holmovka or s. Ternovka, and then on foot.
There is a good path from the village. Zalesnoe, which will lead to the southern slope of Eski-Kermen.
The excursion to the cave city of Eski-Kermen is over. Thank you for attention!
Hello friends!
Where do you think you would see "Mountains" of Afghanistan from the movie 9th company ? And here they are - Eski-Kermen, a cave city in Crimea, with pleasure, provided a set for filming a famous action movie.
And now another question - will each of you be able to count the grottoes and caves, of which there are more than 300! I think it will take you more than one day, so try not to get carried away by the process and not stay in the siege well until the arrival of the Ministry of Emergencies and rescuers.
Let's get down to acquaintance with the next cave city of our peninsula.
It is surprising that few facts have survived about such an ancient settlement. All historical lines and plots are mainly the result of the work of archaeologists and other researchers.
Despite the fact that the date of foundation of Eski-Kermen is considered to be the 6th century. when it was mainly the Byzantines who created the fortress cave cities on the territory of the Crimea, there are still chronicles telling about “ amazing country Dora high up. "
The Goths lived in this "country", who, according to the chronicle, were excellent warriors, farmers, as well as a kind and hospitable people.
We know that Eski-Kermen, in translation - an old fortress, from a small settlement in the 12-13 centuries. turned into a large, prosperous city. The inhabitants were engaged in viticulture, farming, trade. The territory and population of Eski-Kermen increased.
Naturally, without the need, no one would climb to create their own house in such a place. That is cave settlement was necessary for protection and defense against raids.
Why is the cave city empty
Even sheer cliffs, and the seemingly impregnable walls did not save Eski-Kermen from death.
In 1299, the city was stormed by the Mongols, led by Temnik Nogai, leaving the settlement devastated and defeated. After 100 years, the Golden Horde attacked again, and already burned the settlement to the ground.
By the 15th century. Eski-Kermen is in decline, and its inhabitants are leaving.
What was Eski-Kermen "during his lifetime": description
The Eski-Kermen Plateau, nicknamed the Mesa Mountain, rises in the middle of a green valley. Now it is almost completely overgrown with shrubs and trees, and various paths and paths have formed around it.
In ancient times, the plateau was chosen for life due to its favorable relief and location.
Numerous natural grottoes, crevices, stone labyrinths and corridors provided good shelter, and the sheer walls and steep 30-meter precipices served as an excellent defensive point.
Needless to say about a circular view from a bird's eye view. In addition to natural "structures", the inhabitants built watch towers, strong walls, and military installations.
Where is Eski-Kermen in Crimea
This cave city is also located in the Bakhchisarai region, namely, 14-15 km to the south. Just 4 km to the north, there is a plateau and a cave city.
But if in terms of visibility the distances are not great, then it will take at least half an hour to get from one cave city to another by land roads, even by car.
I will tell you how to get there at the end of the article.
What can you see there now
There are no living quarters in Eski-Kermen for a long time. But the cave structures, both artificial and natural, give an excellent idea of the structure, life and life of the ancient city.
You will come across spacious and multi-room, multi-tiered and tunnel-like caves, from the cut window and ventilation openings of which a fabulous view of the neighboring plateau opens.
In Eski-Kermen, the main street of the city has been preserved, enclosed by walls. The deep petrified trail of carts is one of the amazing evidences of that time.
This cave village has its own siege well, where the water was collected and stored. And also temples, basilicas, with the remains of the former luxury - the throne, altar, frescoes, tombs and tombs.
All about excursions to Eski-Kermen
You can travel to the ancient city with excursion group or explore the trails and caves on your own. Do you want to know many legends and historical facts, take a professional guide as an assistant.
There are signs and signs on the territory of the cave city. But some tourists still run the risk of getting lost, because you can go up and down either along the northern or southern slopes, while on the eastern and northern slopes you need to look for a path.
Where to start inspection
From the south side there are the main gate and the entrance to the city. It was here that the road passed, the traces of which remained forever on this land.
Researchers, having recreated the plan of the fortified city, found that it was very difficult for an enemy to get here.
Defensive walls, three pairs of gates and open spaces between them, which were fired from all sides - this is not a quest and not a "lightning" for you!
You yourself will soon see the premises of the battle casemates, from where, according to one of the versions, during the siege, the warriors threw off boulders and sent a whole stream of arrows. This is followed by the complexes of military and siege caves, once connected by defensive thick (up to 2 m) walls.
You will also find yourself in the granaries, which were passed off as Afghan wells with mujahideen in the film "9th Company". This is the most popular place in Eski-Kermen after the release of the film, where every tourist takes a photo.
And here into the siege well it's just better not to meddle. A very difficult and narrow descent, steep, high and half-worn steps, a dark abyss - here you need good insurance, equipment and preparation.
Temple complexes
A little lower and west of the main entrance in the rocks is an active cave temple "Three horsemen". Here, on the wall, an ancient fresco was discovered depicting three horsemen, one of whom is presumably St. George the Victorious.
And “inside” the city you will find a spacious temple with preserved columns, an altar niche and an episcopal chair, a font, benches for parishioners, and tombs. It was also decorated with frescoes, but they have not survived to this day.
There is another small but interesting temple on the eastern slope - temple "Assumption" ... This is a very small room, which, as it turned out, was previously a grain pit, a winery, and a water storage. Then a temple was established there, and the walls were painted with frescoes. Here the fragments are better preserved.
Once upon a time life was raging here
Archaeologists have completely restored the picture of life local residents... The living quarters were mainly built of stone, had two floors and dense annexes, and the roofs were covered with tiles.
Many artifacts were found here - women's jewelry, ceramic objects, utensils and tools. The population was engaged in crafts, cultivation of fields and vineyards, and raised livestock.
During the excavation of the ruins, the remains of people were found. Some died in fires, others were hacked to death with sabers.
This suggests that the attack was swift and sudden, and many were unable to hide or flee their own homes.
Finishing the walk along Eski-Kermen
You can go down to the road along the northern slope. There is a parking lot at the foot of the plateau on this side.
In principle, you can start your ascent from here, and going down the southern slope to way back appreciate the surrounding landscapes.
On the way, you will be accompanied by the walls of the neighboring picturesque rock - Zangurma-Kobalar ... Few people visit this plateau, and in vain! There are also traces of the presence of ancient peoples - rock cuttings, scratches, carved niches. And what are the grottoes, natural stone sculptures and a wonderful view from the top!
What visitors say
There are a lot of reviews about Eski-Kermen, during the season of tourists here, as in a city park of culture and recreation.
There are still a few downsides to mention:
- distant location, it's hard to get there without your own transport;
- no sources;
- dangerous cliffs, slippery stairs, ledges, passages.
There are many more advantages, they are expressed in enthusiastic responses from visitors and positive emotions.
Information for visitors
Visits take place only during daylight hours, ticket offices are open until 16.00 .
On the territory of the Eski-Kermen reserve forbidden make fires, set up tent cities and stay overnight. Vandalism is punishable by a fine!
- Ticket price: 100/50 rubles.
- You can use the services of a guide - 100 rubles per person.
- A trip to the foot of the plateau by jeep - from 1000 rubles per car.
How to get to the cherished plateau
Unfortunately, there are no convenient and direct flights, except for excursion flights.
Therefore, by public transport from, you need to get to one of these villages: Zalesnoe, Krasny Poppy, Ternovka, Kholmovka. Then follow on foot for about 4-5 km.
By car, according to the coordinates for the navigator (44 ° 36'59.4 ″ N 33 ° 44'16.6 ″ E ) , move through with. Ternovka - you will find yourself at the Southern slope, through the village. Kholmovka - near the North.
If you are driving your car, this is how your route will look like from the village of Khoja-Salo at the foot of Mangup-Kale. I will warn you right away that after the village of Kholmovka the road is terrible, you will not accelerate much.
On my trips, be it Turkey or Crimea, I always use the application maps.me... It works without the Internet and shows the area in great detail, unlike Google, which focuses on hotels and restaurants.
If you're wondering how to use these unique maps to their fullest, and not just as a navigator, then here good material.
As soon as you get to the restaurant and parking lot (see the very first photo of the article), then you have a choice: leave the car and continue on foot or jump into the jeep.
By the way, if you have your own "all-terrain vehicle", then many pass on, although personally I singled out there "Brick"... Not on the road, but at the entrance))
Also you will be lucky if you order yourself jeep tour on the plateau... Climb straight up so that you take care of your legs)).
But the pedestrian road will not be so tiresome. In fact, it's even easier to get here faster than Mangup and. So decide for yourself.
Good to know
In the gully "Dzhurla", not far from Eski-Kermen, there is the eponymous tourist base... There you can stay in comfortable rooms, tent cities, and even rent an exclusive cave dwelling. See here for more details eski-kermen.rf .
Do not forget, the cave city is a rather dangerous place, be careful, watch your children!
Do not forget about yourself, shoes should be comfortable and not have slippery soles. Get plenty of water and a small snack.
And don't miss visiting the main ones, as well as cafes with national cuisine!
Look for more important and useful resources in the section ““, and all my video guides about the trip to Crimea you will find on the tab ““. And be sure to join our
