Day 1
All participants meet at the railway station. We get on the bus and go to Aniva district to the mouth of the Uryum river. We will wade the river, knee-deep, sometimes waist-deep. For the crossing, we change into the shoes that we took for the water crossings. After the crossing, we change our shoes and walk along the forest dirt road. Then we go to the coast in Kirillovo. Further, our path goes along the sandy-pebble coast.
We will stop for lunch on the Tambovka river.
After Tambovka, focusing on the low tide, we pass the clamps. At low tide, the coast opens up near the rocks and you can walk without getting wet.
We set up the camp at the mouth of the Maksimkina river. The attendants prepare a delicious dinner. We will get to know each other near the fire.
Daily mileage: 21 km.
Day 2
In the morning, the attendants prepare breakfast according to the layout and duty schedule. After breakfast we pack up and set off. On the way, we will go into a chalk canyon, where an 8-meter waterfall falls. And the nests of swifts are located in the rocks.
On the Kura river we will get up for lunch. There is a farm at the mouth of the river, and you can see horses grazing on the seashore.
After lunch we will go to the Moguchi river. Walking along the sandy-pebble beach. Sometimes passing near the rocks along a stone path, as if a rock of glass on the ground, forming a path. An interesting rock will meet along the way, popularly called the Dragon. The multi-colored rocks are piled up with the muzzle of a dragon, with an open mouth and hollows for the eyes.
Another ford across the Naicha river. A few more kilometers along the sand and camp on the Moguchi river. Hot supper. Overnight stay.
Daily mileage: 22 km
Day 3
After breakfast we pack up the camp and set off. The transition will be tricky today. We'll have to bypass Cape Kanabeev on bamboo. The movement will be very difficult. Walking 5 km will take 4 hours.
Cape Kanabeev is very beautiful. At the very promontory there is a stone arch, to which a rocky terrace of a meter wide leads. We will definitely go radially for inspection and photos. An understanding of security is required because the depth of the sea near the cape immediately reaches 5 meters.
Further, the transition along the coarse-pebble coast giving way to the transition along the boulders, the pile of which reaches about 3 meters in height.
Today will end at the abandoned camp of Cape Anastasia (uninhabited village of Atlasovo). In the sea opposite the cape there are two cliffs surrounded by an old destroyed Japanese pier. The torii, the Shinto sacred gate to the temple, facing east towards the rising sun, were once erected on the largest rock by the Japanese.
The Anastasia river flows near the place to spend the night. You can arrange laundry, washes.
200 meters from the camp, a beautiful 20-meter waterfall falls on the coast.
Hot supper. Overnight stay.
Miles per day: 12 km. 
Day 4
Afternoon.
The day is intended to rest after the crossing. Do your laundry, dry, wash and just relax. Relax on Cape Anastasia with soft sunrises and fiery sunsets. 
Day 5
In the morning, after breakfast, we pack up the camp and leave. Today we are going to the very Cape Crillon.
The path is beautiful, but it has several boulders. When passing such clamps, you should be careful, take your time and help the participants. In some places, you may need help with transferring the backpacks first, and after that the participants pass lightly. Boys are active and give a helping hand. Along the way, we will also find many waterfalls, from small to large, from dry to a thin stream to powerful water streams. For lunch we will stand on a house near the waterfall.
After lunch there will be a few kilometers left and we are finally in the bay of Cape Crillon! We set up camp and cook dinner. We also collect passports and the instructor goes to mark the group at the border guards.
Attention! cellular on Crillon - Japanese, eats up the entire balance before dialing a number.
Tomorrow we will have a day trip and excursion trips along the cape, to places of glory, and military fortifications, a lighthouse and a monument, underground passages and cannons.
Daily mileage: 19 km. 
Day 6
Afternoon. The day is dedicated to acquaintance with the history of the extreme point of Sakhalin Island. The whole day is planned for radial exits in order to cover as many historical sights as possible associated with the period of the Russian-Japanese war.
Today we are in no hurry. We sleep to the fullest. After a late breakfast, we will prepare a lunchtime snack and go for a walk and see the sights of Krillon.
Let's start our tour with a monument to the soldiers who died during the liberation of Sakhalin and the Southern Kuriles. 7 paratroopers are buried in this mass grave. Next, let's go to inspect nowadays non-residential buildings, which were built by the Japanese and then the Russians, everything was mixed on a small piece of land. Let's climb, take a look, and hurry to the fortified area. After all, Cape Crillon is one large fortified area, along which you can walk for weeks in search of military pillboxes, underground passages, trench, guns. On the way, we will climb to a large plateau overgrown with bamboo, where cannons hid in the thick tall grass. A little further off you can see the visor of the command post, here we are already inside.
The walls and steps were laid by the Japanese with natural stone, the masonry has survived to this day, as good as new.
Let's go upstairs and in front of us the entire La Perouse Strait, at a glance. We go further, here in the underground shelter there is a whole cannon, all the levers are still in working order.
Below you can see a hole that goes underground, let's go down, and a whole underground world will open before us. Many rooms, manholes. Passages, stairs and we are again at the top, already at the other end of the peninsula, again we go down, again up and again at the other end, along the road we meet empty boxes of shells, old bunks, various instruments, sensors, counters on the walls, yeah, sure You can walk here for weeks to examine everything and find all the loopholes. We creep out into the white light and return to the camp. In the camp we will have a bite to eat and again go out for another walk along the cape. In good weather, you can see Japan from Krillon. And we go to the edge of the cape, and suddenly we are lucky and we will see Japan. First, Rebun Island will open before the eyes, and then Hokkaido Island. With binoculars, you can see windmills that glow with colorful lights.
We return to the camp to cook dinner. And while discussing today we enjoy hot food and delicious tea with bagels.
Daily mileage of radial exits: 6 km. 
Day 7
In the morning, after breakfast, we pack our things, put on our backpacks and again set off on the road to examine the underground passages and "study" military equipment. Let's go to the huge cannon, and in the bamboo hid behind the Soviet tanks. We will examine new manholes, trenches, find Japanese washbasins that have been preserved in excellent condition.
Further along the road, we will look at the remains of the Shiranushi post. The fast was founded by the Japanese clan Matsumae from the island of Hokkaido, presumably in the 1750s, in the 1850s the importance of fasting began to decline and the fast in Shiranushi was abolished, and the history of fasting ended. There is information that in 1925, 150 people lived in the village of Siranusi, there were 36 houses. Now at the site of the post, you can find many objects of different times, belonging to both the Japanese and the Russians, a pedestal from the monument to Kajima Kinento, a platform from the building of a Japanese post, earthen ramparts, which were most likely defensive in nature, concrete structures, firing points of the 2nd world war.
Above the post are the ruins of a crab factory and coastal batteries from IS-3 tanks. By the way, the tanks are mothballed and in excellent condition.
Further the road goes along the sandy beach.
And then a "ghost ship" appears on the horizon from the fog. Handsome, or rather all that remains of him. The ship is torn into three pieces. This is the dry cargo ship "Luga", which has been lying here for over 65 years on the shallows. Seagulls and cormorants took a liking to the remains of the ship and arranged a bird colony on it.
By the fall of 1947, the dry-cargo steamship Luga was prepared for towing to Vladivostok, and then further to Shanghai for overhaul. The steamer Pyotr Tchaikovsky was assigned to tow the Luga, but they lost time and began towing at the end of October. "Pyotr Tchaikovsky" and "Luga" were caught by a violent typhoon near the La Perouse Strait. The tug tore and the "Luga" was thrown onto the Krillon peninsula between the capes of Maydel and Zamirailov's head. The damage to "Luga" was so great that the repair was inappropriate and they did not try to remove it from the shallows, that's how it became a home for gulls and cormorants
Lunch break and photo for memory. And again on the road.
Many bear tracks will accompany us on the way. There used to be a nature reserve on the peninsula, hunting and fishing was prohibited in these collapses, so bears bred here. We take out the pipes and play, indicating that we are going here.
For the night we stand on the Zamirailovka river. Hot supper.
Daily mileage: 14km. 
Day 8
In the morning after breakfast we set up the camp, put on already lightweight backpacks and set off. Today the path partially passes along the pass, skirting Cape Kuznetsov, since there are no passages there. The road through the pass is in good condition and will not be difficult to cross.
Cape Kuznetsov is one of natural monuments about. Sakhalin Island, its name was given in honor of Captain 1st Rank D.I.Kuznetsov, who commanded the first detachment that sailed to the Far East in 1857 to protect the Russian borders.
We leave to the farm. We stop for lunch.
During lunch we will go to look at a Japanese column with hieroglyphs. There are many such columns left across Sakhalin, it shows the height above sea level.
After lunch we continue to Cape Vindis, where we will set up a camp. Dinner. Overnight stay.
Daily mileage: 17 km. 
Day 9
Afternoon.
In the morning, after breakfast, we go to the town of Kovrizhka.
Mount Kovrizhka got its name from its shape in the form of a cake, it is located at Cape Vindis. Translated from the Ainu language, it means "nasty dwelling." The cape is located 35 km. from the village Shebunino, Kovrizhka itself rises above sea level at an altitude of about 78 m, has an almost ideal round shape with a diameter of more than 100 m. The absolutely flat summit of Kovrizhka is known for the fact that archaeological sites of ancient people were found on it. There are versions that this natural building was used by the Sakhalin aborigines as a fortress, where they fled from the invasion of strangers, which may be why the name "bad dwelling" is.
The ascent to Kovrizhka is very steep, it can only be reached by a rope pulled by kind people. Overcoming fear, let's go upstairs and a dizzying view will open before us! Almost the entire South Kamysheviy ridge is visible on one side, and on the other, Cape Kuznetsov.
Lunch and dinner at the camp. Overnight. 
Day 10
In the morning after breakfast we set up the camp, put on our backpacks and set off.
Today we will go through an old abandoned village. Which impresses with its preserved houses on the seashore in the wilderness, where there are no means of communication.
On the way, another ford of the Pereputka river. During rains, the water level rises strongly, which can create an obstacle. But we have already passed many rivers and streams, and this river is not an obstacle to us!
We will have lunch on the river and continue our way to the Brusnichka river. The path goes along the sandy beach.
We set up a camp at the mouth of the Brusnichka River. Dinner. Overnight.
Daily mileage: 16 km. 
Day 11
Breakfast. Travel fees. Day of leaving the hike. The last push. Sorry to part with the beauty of Krillon. Many places unknown and unexplored by us are left behind. So there is a reason to return!
A bus will be waiting in Shebunino that will take us to Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk.
Daily mileage: 22 km.
Day 12
Extra day. In case of bad weather, hot flashes and fatigue of the participants. In case of a good pace of the route, it will be used as an additional day or as an additional day to distribute the mileage according to the forces of the participants.
Attention!Depending on weather conditions, physical and psychological preparation of the participants, conditions and speed of the route by the group, as well as in case of force majeure, the instructor can make changes to the schedule. This decision is made for the whole group only by the instructor.
An interesting hike through one of the untouched regions of Russia. Active rest on Sakhalin is a lot of nature, good company and recovery is a must!
Day 1.
All participants meet at the railway station. We get on the bus and go to Aniva district to the mouth of the Uryum river. We will wade the river, knee-deep, sometimes waist-deep. For the crossing, we change into the shoes that we took for the water crossings. After the crossing, we change our shoes and walk along the forest dirt road. Then we go to the coast in Kirillovo. Further, our path goes along the sandy-pebble coast.
We will stop for lunch on the Tambovka river.
After Tambovka, focusing on the low tide, we pass the clamps. During low tide, the coast opens near the rocks and you can walk without getting wet.
We set up the camp at the mouth of the Maksimkina river. The attendants prepare a delicious dinner. We will get to know each other near the fire.
Daily mileage: 21 km.
Day 2.
In the morning, the attendants prepare breakfast according to the layout and duty schedule. After breakfast we pack up and set off. On the way, we will go into a chalk canyon, where an 8-meter waterfall falls. And the nests of swifts are located in the rocks.
On the Kura river we will get up for lunch. There is a farm at the mouth of the river, and you can see horses grazing on the seashore.
After lunch we will go to the Moguchi river. Walking along the sandy-pebble beach. Sometimes passing near the rocks along a stone path, as if a rock of glass on the ground, forming a path. An interesting rock will meet along the way, popularly called the Dragon. The multi-colored rocks are piled up with the muzzle of a dragon, with an open mouth and hollows for the eyes.
Another ford across the Naicha river. A few more kilometers along the sand and camp on the Moguchi river. Hot supper. Overnight stay.
Daily mileage: 22 km
Day 3.
After breakfast we pack up the camp and set off. The transition will be tricky today. We'll have to bypass Cape Kanabeev on bamboo. The movement will be very difficult. Walking 5 km will take 4 hours.
Cape Kanabeev is very beautiful. At the very promontory there is a stone arch, to which a rocky terrace of a meter wide leads. We will definitely go radially for inspection and photos. An understanding of security is required because the depth of the sea near the cape immediately reaches 5 meters.
Today will end at the abandoned camp of Cape Anastasia (non-residential village of Atlasovo). There are two cliffs in the sea opposite the cape, surrounded by an old ruined Japanese pier. The torii, the Shinto sacred gate to the temple, facing east towards the rising sun, were once erected on the largest rock by the Japanese.
The Anastasia river flows near the place to spend the night. You can arrange laundry, washes.
200 meters from the camp, a beautiful 20-meter waterfall falls on the coast.
Hot supper. Overnight.
Kilometers per day: 12 km.
Day 4.
The day is intended for rest after the crossing. Do your laundry, dry, wash and just relax. Relax on Cape Anastasia with soft sunrises and fiery sunsets.
Day 5.
In the morning, after breakfast, we pack up the camp and leave. Today we are going to the very Cape Crillon.
The path is beautiful, but it has several boulders. When passing such clamps, you should be careful, take your time and help the participants. In some places, you may need help in transferring the backpacks first, and after that the participants pass lightly. Boys are active and give a helping hand. Along the way, we will also find many waterfalls, from small to large, from dry to a thin stream to powerful water streams. For lunch we will stand on a house near the waterfall.
After lunch, there will be a few kilometers left and we are finally in the bay of Cape Crillon! We set up camp and prepare dinner. We also collect passports and the instructor goes to mark the group at the border guards.
Attention! Cellular communication on Crillon - Japanese, eats up the entire balance before dialing a number.
Tomorrow we will have a day trip and sightseeing trips along the cape, to places of glory, and military fortifications, a lighthouse and a monument, underground passages and cannons.
Daily mileage: 19 km.
Day 6.
Afternoon. The day is dedicated to acquaintance with the history of the extreme point of Sakhalin Island. The whole day is planned for radial exits in order to cover as much as possible the historical sights associated with the period of the Russian-Japanese war.
Today we are in no hurry. We sleep to the fullest. After a late breakfast, we will prepare a lunchtime snack and go for a walk and see the sights of Krillon.
Let's start our tour with a monument to the soldiers who died during the liberation of Sakhalin and the Southern Kuriles. 7 paratroopers are buried in this mass grave. Next, let's go to inspect nowadays non-residential buildings, which were built by the Japanese and then the Russians, everything was mixed on a small piece of land. Let's climb, take a look, and hurry to the fortified area. After all, Cape Crillon is one large fortified area, along which you can walk for weeks in search of military pillboxes, underground passages, trenches, guns. On the way, we will climb to a large plateau overgrown with bamboo, where cannons hid in the thick tall grass. A little further off you can see the visor of the command post, here we are already inside.
The walls and steps were laid by the Japanese with natural stone, the masonry has survived to this day, as good as new.
Let's go upstairs and in front of us the entire La Perouse Strait, at a glance. We go further, here in the underground shelter there is a whole cannon, all the levers are still in working order.
Below you can see a hole that goes underground, let's go down, and a whole underground world will open before us. Many rooms, manholes. Passages, stairs and we are again at the top, already at the other end of the peninsula, again we go down, again up and again at the other end, along the road we meet empty boxes of shells, old bunks, various instruments, sensors, counters on the walls, yeah, sure You can walk here for weeks to examine everything and find all the loopholes. We creep out into the white light and return to the camp. In the camp we will have a bite to eat and again go out for another walk along the cape. In good weather, you can see Japan from Krillon. And we go to the edge of the cape, and suddenly we are lucky and we will see Japan. First, Rebun Island will open before your eyes, and then Hokkaido Island. With binoculars, you can see windmills that glow with colorful lights.
We return to the camp to cook dinner. And while discussing today we enjoy hot food and delicious tea with bagels.
Daily mileage of radial exits: 6 km.
Day 7.
In the morning, after breakfast, we pack our things, put on our backpacks and again set off on the road to examine the underground passages and "study" military equipment. Let's go to the huge cannon, and in the bamboo hid behind the Soviet tanks. We will examine new manholes, trenches, find Japanese washbasins that have been preserved in excellent condition.
Further along the road, we will look at the remains of the Shiranushi post. The fast was founded by the Japanese clan Matsumae from the island of Hokkaido, presumably in the 1750s, in the 1850s the importance of fasting began to decline and the fast in Shiranushi was abolished, and the history of fasting ended. There is information that in 1925, 150 people lived in the village of Siranusi, there were 36 houses. Now at the site of the post, you can find many objects of different times, belonging to both the Japanese and the Russians, a pedestal from the monument to Kajima Kinento, a platform from the building of a Japanese post, earthen ramparts, which were most likely defensive in nature, concrete structures, firing points of the 2nd world war.
Above the post are the ruins of a crab factory and coastal batteries from IS-3 tanks. By the way, the tanks are mothballed and are in excellent condition.
And then a "ghost ship" appears on the horizon from the fog. Handsome, or rather all that remains of him. The ship is torn into three pieces. This is the dry cargo ship "Luga", which has been lying here for more than 65 years on the beach. Seagulls and cormorants took a liking to the remains of the ship and arranged a bird colony on it.
By the fall of 1947, the dry-cargo steamship Luga was prepared for towing to Vladivostok, and then further to Shanghai for overhaul. The steamer Pyotr Tchaikovsky was assigned to tow the Luga, but they lost time and began towing at the end of October. "Pyotr Tchaikovsky" and "Luga" were caught by a violent typhoon near the La Perouse Strait. The tug tore and the "Luga" was thrown onto the Krillon peninsula between the capes of Maydel and Zamirailov's head. The damage to "Luga" was so great that the repair was inappropriate and they did not try to remove it from the shallows, that's how it became a home for gulls and cormorants
Lunch break and photo for memory. And again on the road.
Many bear tracks will accompany us on the way. There used to be a nature reserve on the peninsula, hunting and fishing was prohibited in these collapses, so bears bred here. We take out the pipes and play, indicating that we are going here.
For the night we stand on the Zamirailovka river. Hot supper.
Daily mileage: 14km.
Day 8.
In the morning after breakfast we set up the camp, put on already lightweight backpacks and set off. Today, the path partially passes along the pass, skirting Cape Kuznetsov, since there are no passages there. The road through the pass is in good condition and will not be difficult to cross.
Cape Kuznetsova is one of the natural monuments of about. Sakhalin Island, its name was given in honor of Captain 1st Rank D.I.Kuznetsov, who commanded the first detachment that sailed to the Far East in 1857 to protect the Russian borders.
We leave to the farm. We stop for lunch.
During lunch we will go to look at a Japanese column with hieroglyphs. There are many such columns left across Sakhalin, it shows the height above sea level.
After lunch we continue to Cape Vindis, where we will set up a camp. Dinner. Overnight stay.
Daily mileage: 17 km.
Day 9.
In the morning, after breakfast, we go to the town of Kovrizhka.
Mount Kovrizhka got its name from its shape in the form of a cake, it is located at Cape Vindis. Translated from the Ainu language, it means "nasty dwelling." The cape is located 35 km. from the village Shebunino, Kovrizhka itself rises above sea level at an altitude of about 78 m, has an almost ideal round shape with a diameter of more than 100 m. The absolutely flat summit of Kovrizhka is known for the fact that archaeological sites of ancient people were found on it. There are versions that this natural building was used by the Sakhalin aborigines as a fortress, where they fled from the invasion of strangers, which may be why the name "bad dwelling" is.
The ascent to Kovrizhka is very steep; it can only be reached by a rope pulled by kind people. Overcoming fear, go upstairs and a dizzying view will open before us! Almost the entire South Kamysheviy ridge is visible on one side, and on the other, Cape Kuznetsov.
Lunch and dinner at the camp. Overnight stay.
Day 10.
In the morning after breakfast we pack up the camp, put on our backpacks and set off.
Today we will go through an old abandoned village. Which impresses with its preserved houses on the seashore in the wilderness, where there are no means of communication.
On the way, another ford of the Pereputka river. During rains, the water level rises strongly, which can create an obstacle. But we have already passed many rivers and streams, and this river is not an obstacle to us!
We will have lunch on the river and continue our way to the Brusnichka river. The path goes along the sandy beach.
We set up a camp at the mouth of the Brusnichka River. Dinner. Overnight.
Daily mileage: 16 km
Day 11.
Breakfast. Travel fees. Day of leaving the hike. The last push. Sorry to part with the beauty of Krillon. Many places unknown and unexplored by us are left behind. So there is a reason to return!
A bus will be waiting in Shebunino that will take us to Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk.
Daily mileage: 22 km.
Day 12.
Extra day. In case of bad weather, hot flashes and fatigue of the participants. In case of a good pace of the route, it will be used as an additional day or as an additional day to distribute the mileage according to the forces of the participants.
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In the 1950s, at the southernmost tip of Cape Crillon, there was a small monument made of natural stone and erected, according to the recollections of old-timers, in 1945. By the decision of the Sakhalin Regional Executive Committee of March 9, 1971, No. 98, the monument was put under state protection.
Part of the route runs along the territory of the zoological natural monument of regional significance "Cape Kuznetsova". The territory of the natural monument is the only year-round rookery for sea lions and seals in the south of Sakhalin. The valley of the Kuznetsovka River is a place where many rare species plants and a nesting place for rare bird species. Main objects of protection: sea lions and seals rookeries; nesting places for rare bird species; places of growth of rare and endemic plant species listed in the Red Data Books Russian Federation and Sakhalin region
Protection mode: the water route does not pass through a specially protected natural area; in case of organizing a walking tour, it is necessary to familiarize oneself with the regime of protection of the natural monument of regional significance “Cape Kuznetsova”.
Route description
The route is very popular. Among Sakhalin tourists, it is interesting for pedestrians, jeepers and water tourists traveling on motor-sailing ships or sea kayaks. The route is replete with a large number of capes, impassable pressure areas, complicated by the lack of settlements. This route is especially interesting if you observe the shores of the Krillon Peninsula from the sea, traveling on small boats.
The route can start from the village of Shebunino, which can be reached by vehicles of any cross-country ability. The first amazing place that the traveler sees from the sea is Cape Vindis and Mount "Kovrizhka", which is located on the cape and is a rock with a flat top and steep, almost sheer walls. From a distance, the cape looks like an island: when viewed from the north and south it is trapezoidal, and from the west it is square. Around this rock you can see many large stones of different shapes and types, crabs and seals are also found here. Several archaeological sites of ancient people have been found on the flat top of the cape (78 meters high).
The name Cape Vindis is translated from the Ainu language as "bad dwelling." The Ainu called the capes which were dangerous to go around by boat and had to go around the coast as bad, bad capes. For its trapezoidal shape, the mountain on the cape is also called "Kovrizhka". You can climb to the top of the mountain only along its eastern slope, overgrown with forbs, but it is quite difficult to overcome the last 7-8 meters without special equipment.
Further along the route, there is another interesting place - the zoological natural monument "Cape Kuznetsova". This place is also notable for the beauty of the coast. In the direction of the southwest, a strip of sheer cliffs with heights of up to 50-60 meters stretches for 2300 meters. Of the geomorphological objects, one can distinguish giant "fingers", "arches", "gates" - all this is scattered in a picturesque disorder not far from the coast. The shores themselves hang menacingly above the surface of the water, forming huge wave-breaking niches. The extensive bench area extends into the strait about 600-800 meters, so in calm sunny weather the waves do not reach the coast. In the south, the cape ends in a rock that resembles a man's face in profile.
At present, in the lower reaches of the Kuznetsovka River, there is Noah's Ark - this is how the people call the subsidiary farm of the Cape Kuznetsov enterprise. This closed place is fenced off by a cordon, behind which the ecovillage is located. There is a small church on the territory of the ecovillage. And indeed, who and what is not here - horses, pigs, goats, rams, turkeys, ducks, geese graze on the seashore. Wild animals also found shelter - porcupine, ostriches, Yashka the fox, Masha the bear.
In the central part of Cape Kuznetsov (the Japanese called him Sonya), at the very tip there is the Kuznetsovo lighthouse, built by the Japanese in 1914. Its height above sea level is 78.5 meters. Previously, the cape and bay were called Sony, which in translation from the Ainu means columnar stones or reefs and reflects the peculiarities of this place.
The southern tip of Cape Kuznetsov turns into a two-kilometer beach that stretches westward to the long and narrow Cape Zamirailova Golova. The cape is 87.5 meters high. There is a trigger point at the top. The elongated cape is surrounded from the north by the Kamoi bay, on which there are sandy beaches, from the south is the Zamirailova Golova cape.
Moving south, the route comes to the long-awaited Cape Crillon - the southern point of the peninsula. This is one large Japanese fortified area, where you can walk for weeks in search of military pillboxes, underground passages, cannons, trenches. In these places, it is worth visiting the Krillon lighthouse with a height of more than 8 meters, which has a unique and long history, as well as a monument erected on the cape in honor of the soldiers who died during the liberation of southern Sakhalin in 1945. It is recommended to take a day off at Cape Crillon to explore the local attractions. There is a frontier post on the cape, where you need to register your visit. Also, for the movement of small vessels, notification of the border service is required.
Further, the route will go along the other side of Sakhalin along the Aniva Bay already in a northern direction through the interesting and beautiful capes of Anastasia, Kanabeev and ends at the mouth of the Uryum River ( old village Kirillovo). Fishing camps are often encountered along this section, and fixed nets in the sea (care must be taken on small boats!). From the Uryum River you can go by road to Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk.
In general, when entering a route on a small vessel, it is necessary to take into account the risks associated with the weather, it changes very quickly in this area. When passing Cape Crillon, it is necessary to take into account the rifts and constant currents of the La Perouse Strait.
List of attractions and objects of tourist display: Cape Vindis, Cape Kuznetsov, sea lion rookery at Cape Kuznetsov, Cape Krillon, p. Atlasov, Cape Kanabeev; along the entire route, beautiful landscapes, picturesque sea and hills open up.
Arrival and departure from the route: you can get to the beginning of the route by motor transport of any passability to the village of Shebunino; Departure from the route runs from the mouth of the Uryum River (Kirillovo village).
Options for an emergency approach, departure or exit: on the section of the route from the village of Shebunino to Cape Crillon, you can leave the route by off-road vehicles. Of particular difficulty by car is the Kuznetsov Cape Pass and the pressure in front of Krillon. It is also possible to go by off-road vehicles on the eastern section of Krillon from the Uryum River to the Mogucha River (a particular difficulty is the passage of cars through river mouths). On the section from Cape Krillon to the Mogucha River, exit from the route is possible only on foot (through Cape Kanabeev, no passage) or by water transport.
Parking places and their description. It is easy to choose a good camp: large meadows, a sufficient amount of firewood, clear water of shallow streams flowing into the sea will make it possible to arrange the camp as comfortably as possible.
The most interesting and convenient parking areas:
1. Cape Vindis - north side, there is a small stream, a good meadow, little firewood.
2. Cape Kuznetsova (Komoi Bay) - a beautiful cozy place, sheltered from the wind, a lot of firewood, water from small streams.
3. The mouth of the Pekarnya river (a ravine in front of Cape Crillon) - convenient parking, good water, firewood along the beach.
4. Cape Anastasia is a convenient bucket for settling in bad weather, the territory is polluted with industrial debris, and a fishing camp is often located.
Conclusion
The purpose of the work is to consider and identify the tourist opportunities of the Krillon Peninsula and assess the natural conditions and resources of the peninsula for the development of tourism.
To achieve this goal, a number of tasks were set before the work:
1.Geographical position the peninsula determines its uniqueness. The Krillon Peninsula is a rather unique place for its beauty. The landscapes of the peninsula are rich in their history, as well as pleasantly surprise with the diversity of fauna and flora. Here you can find rare plants and observe various animals and birds. On the Krillon Peninsula, the places of settlement of the former population of the peninsula - the Japanese and the Ainu - have been partially preserved to this day. The bucket port and Cape Kanabeyev, which is a historical monument, are also unique.
2. A large number of natural and historical monuments, some of them are difficult to access, in addition to their uniqueness, this attracts tourists even more.
3. Despite all the beauty of this place, the peninsula is far from being a tourist destination. There are no excursions and tours here, there are no tourist bases. This is due to the fact that two currents meet near the Krillon peninsula. Cold with Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk and warm from the Tatar Strait, which ensures windy and rainy weather. You can get here only by car or on your own by organizing a hike. In any case, unfavorable weather conditions do not stop those who decided to visit this unique peninsula.
Bibliography
1. Vysokova M.S. History of the Sakhalin region from ancient times to the present day / Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, 1995.
2. Gorbunov S.V. Zoomorphic figurines of the Ivanovka site // Research on the archeology of Sakhalin and the Kuril Islands. II. Conference abstracts. Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, 1989.S. 14-15.
3. Gorbunov S.V. Catalog of archaeological collections of the Nevelskoy Museum of Local Lore // Code of Archaeological Monuments of Sakhalin and the Kuril Islands. Issue 2. YuzhnoSakhalinsk, 1996.
4. Gluzdovsky V.E. Catalog of the Museum of the Society for the Study of the Amur Region // Notes of the Society for the Study of the Amur Region (Vladivostok Branch of the Amur Department of the IRGO). 4.1, vol. IX. Vladivostok, Printing house "Trade and Industrial Bulletin Of the Far East". 1907, p. 121.
5. Ito Nobuo. Earthen fortifications of the Chinese type on Karafuto // Bulletin of the Sakhalin Museum. No. 3, 1996.
6. Klitin A.K. Rediscovering Sakhalin: Backpacking across Sakhalin and the Kuril Islands. - Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk: Sakhalin - Priamurskie vedomosti publishing house, 2010. - 304 p.
7. Klitin A.K., Brovko P.F., Gorbunov A.O. Waterfalls. Series "Natural History of Sakhalin and the Kuril Islands" / Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk: State Budgetary Institution of Culture "Sakhalin Regional local history museum", 2013. - 168 p.
8. Multimedia Encyclopedia "Reserved Areas" / Sakhalin Regional Public Organization Club "Boomerang", 2010
9. Niyoka T., Utagawa H. Archaeological sites in South Sakhalin. Sapporo, 1990 (in Japanese).
10. Monuments and memorable places Korsakov District / MU "Centralized Library System of the Korsakov District". - Korsakov, 2008
11. Pervukhina E.L. , M.Yu. Lozovoy, S.V. Gorbunov. Aleksandrovskoe coast Trillium. - Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk: Publishing house of KANO, 2001. - pp. 110 - 121.
12. Pervukhin S.M., M.Yu. Lozovoy, S.V. Gorbunov. Peninsula Krillon Trillium.- Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk: Publishing house of KANO, 2001. - pp. 93 - 110.
13. Pervukhina, M.Yu. Lozovoy. Narrow-gauge steam locomotives of the Agnevo mine // Bulletin of the Sakhalin Museum. No. 6. Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, 1999. S. 350-355.
14. Plotnikov N.V. Archaeological prospecting in the Nevelsky district in 1990 // Local history bulletin, 1991.
15. Prokofiev M.M., Deryugin V.A. Gorbunov S.V. Pottery of the Satsumon culture and its findings on Sakhalin and the Kuril Islands. Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, 1990.
16.Rivers of Sakhalin / Sakhalin Energy Invest Company Ltd. - Vladivostok: Publishing house "Orange", 2013.156 p.
17. Ryzhavsky G.Ya., Tashoyan F.V., Across Sakhalin and Kuril Islands. 1994 .-- 176 p.
18. Samarin IA .. Krillonsky detachment // Bulletin of the Sakhalin Museum. No. 1, 1995. S. 3-18.
19. Samarin IA .. Cape Kanabeeva // Bulletin of the Sakhalin Museum. No. 5, 1998. S. 26-39.
20. Samarin IA .. Cape Anastasia // Bulletin of the Sakhalin Museum. No. 6, 1999. S. 43-65.
21. Samarin I.A., Shubina O.A. Results of the survey of monuments of history and archeology on the peninsula in the field season of 1996 // Regional Studies Bulletin, 1997. No. 4. P. 19-58.
22. Samarin IA. Lighthouses of Sakhalin // Local history bulletin. No. 1, 1994.
23. Samarin I.A. Lighthouses of Sakhalin and the Kuril Islands, 2005
24. Samarin I.A. Monuments of military glory of the Sakhalin region, 2000
25. Samarin IA .. "Sivuch" off the coast of Sakhalin // Local history bulletin. No. 1, 1996.
26. Samarin I.A. , O. A. Shubina. The current state of the settlement of Siranusi // Bulletin of the Sakhalin Museum. No. 4, 1997.
27. Svyatozar Demidovich Galtsev-Bezyuk / Toponymic Dictionary of the Sakhalin Region, Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk: Far Eastern Book Publishing House, Sakhalin Branch, 1992
28. Hirokawa Yosinaga, Yamada Goro. ABOUT current state earthen fortress Siranushi // Bulletin of the Sakhalin Museum. No. 4, 1997.
29. Sharova S.S. Traveling around the native land: excursion routes and tours around the island of Sakhalin: tourist guide / Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk: Publishing house IROSO, 2014. - 356 p.
30. Shubin V.O., Shubina O.A. The sites of primitive man in southern Sakhalin // Research in the archeology of the Sakhalin region. Vladivostok, 1977.S. 62-102.
Applications
a) Decision No. 329 of 15.09.1982 of the Sakhalin Regional Council of People's Deputies:
Approve the Regulation; to extend the period by 10 years - in order to protect and reproduce rare and valuable animals: sable, otters, released for the acclimatization of Canadian beavers (by that time dead!), eagles, hazel grouse, sea and water birds, taimen, sima, pink salmon, and protection of their habitat.
The reserve performs the functions of maintaining the integrity of natural communities, preserving, reproducing and restoring valuable in economic, scientific and cultural relations, as well as rare and endangered wild animals.
Restrictions have been established for the following activities:
a) hunting and fishing,
b) tourism and other forms organized recreation population,
c) collecting mushrooms, berries, medicinal and ornamental plants,
d) the use of pesticides,
e) off-road traffic.
It should be noted that all this time, young cattle were grazing in the floodplains of spawning rivers. Every year, cattle bears took their tribute, for which they were shot. Here the huntsman Kartavyh caught a bear, whose skull at the international trophy exhibition turned out to be larger than Ceausescu's trophy.
Decision of the Sakhoblispolkom No. 391 of 23.12.1987 "On partial amendment of the Regulations on the state defense order" Peninsula Krilyon "No. 329":
The restriction on fishing, introduced in 1982, contributed to the increase in the number of various fish species living in the reservoirs of the reserve. Taking into account the proposal of the department of the hunting economy decided:
Introduced in clause 3.5. Regulation No. 329 the following addition:
Amateur fishing is allowed on the territory of the reserve. For carrying out biological reclamation in rivers and catching weed fish, it is allowed, as an exception, to use nets under permits issued by the hunting administration. Control is assigned to the gamekeepers. Chairman of the regional executive committee I. I. Kuropatko.
For reference, in the period preceding this decision, the fish protection inspectorate seized up to 36 large taimen from violators per day. Since then, a massive invasion began on the peninsula. The local district administration tried to get their hands on the process - they introduced an entry fee. The reserve served, and still serves, as a place for "royal" hunting and fishing. For example, during Putin's visit, Chernomyrdin was with him, who instead of boring excursions went to Tambovka and killed a bear. It is also the site of a fierce battle for influence between local fisheries conservation and game management.
Memorandum “On the expediency of maintaining the status of the Cape Krillon reserve”:
The number of rare fish, birds and wild animals, for which the reserve was supposedly created, has reached a critical point of complete extinction. The district receives practically no production and no income through the reserve. On the basis of the above, I consider it inexpedient to further extend the status of the Cape Krillon reserve, I propose to use these lands for the development of small businesses and farms. Art. State Inspector of the Aniva Fish Protection Inspectorate Aisin N.T. 1992
In the 90s, there was a rapid growth of fisheries. It is limited only by the inaccessibility of the area and the lack of valuable objects. Repeated attempts to restore at least some kind of order fail. The most harmful is the spring fishing for miscellaneous fish. Local rivers still perform well the functions of reproduction of pink salmon - in odd years, spawning grounds overflow and deaths are possible. Therefore, it is possible to remove pink salmon from rivers, since fishing with sea fixed seines is ineffective here. At the same time, the by-catch of juvenile kunja, rudd and taimen is significant. There is also limited fishing for seal and kelp.
b) Order of the Sakhalin Region Administration dated 12.24.2002
In accordance with paragraph "a" of Article 18 and Articles 19 of the Law of the Sakhalin Region dated 02.10.2000 No. 214 "On the Development of Specially Protected Areas of the Sakhalin Region": To annul the status of the state hunting reserve of regional significance "Krillon Peninsula". I.P. Farkhutdinov, regional governor.
The game managers managed to get rid of the problem area very easily. The following wording was used: "The goals of stabilizing the number of wild animals and birds, including those listed in the Red Book, are fully met." None of the independent experts confirmed this, and there was no environmental expertise. In fact, the reserve failed at least to protect and reproduce taimen and sima. Since March 2002, several meetings have been held at various levels on the Krillon issue. A variant of organizing a specially protected natural area, new for the Russian Far East, was proposed - a salmon reserve under the management of Sakhalinrybvod.
By order of the governor, a reserve was established on the Krillon peninsula:
At the request of the deputies and the administration of the Aniva district, at present, the Department of Fisheries and the Committee of Natural Resources are working on the creation of a biological and ichthyological reserve on the Krillon Peninsula.
In order to maintain law and order on the territory of the peninsula, suppress poaching, as well as taking into account the fire hazardous period and the upcoming salmon fishing season, the governor of the region on April 30 signed an order instructing the departments of the timber and fishery complexes to ensure, together with the regional hunting administration, the closure of free access across the Uryum River to all legal and individuals, who does not have a special pass, signed by all three controlling services. Thus, nature conservation measures make it possible to preserve the relict forests and the salmon maternity hospital of Aniva Bay in their original form. Press center of the Sakhalin Region Administration, April 30, 2003
Unfortunately, the title of this post contains typical misinformation. At one time, Sakhalinrybvod really advocated the creation of an ichthyological reserve with a ban on salmon fishing. There was a wave of publications in the media about this - "Krillon is not dead", "Krillon will live", "Salmon reserve". But at the decisive meeting on April 28, 2003, the head of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam Zatulyakin A.V. abandoned the intention to take this territory under special protection. Governor Farkhutdinov ordered to spend Putin and return to consideration of the question of the expediency of the reserve in November 2003. Yes, he didn't have time.
Posted on Allbest.ru
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place about. Sakhalin, Krillon peninsula
time September-October 2013
Day one: south again
In mid-September (2013) there were free days: the excitement with orders subsided, and nothing else was planned for the near future. That's it, now I'm definitely going to Cape Crillon! But Maxim persuaded to go to the thousand-meter (1) of South Sakhalin - Mount Spamberg. Maxim just had a vacation, and he desperately needed to somehow usefully spend time. I had to go to meet my dear comrade.
Let's go to the Spamberg mountain. In the foothills and on the slopes of this mountain, we rode for four days. We reached only the high-mountainous lake Mokhovoy. We set up camp there. The next day, they began to storm the summit, but met fierce resistance from the bamboo, and when a dwarf cedar came to the rescue with a sudden rain, we capitulated. They were content with only contemplating the peak from a two-kilometer distance. But, returning to the camp, we rode on a raft made by someone a long time ago and comprehended the beauty of Lake Mokhovoy (clouds overhead!).
We returned to town on Friday. I had enough for a day and a half, and on Sunday I got ready to travel again. Now for sure on Crillon! This time, nothing held: the fact is that, after returning from Mount Spamberg, I contacted another employer and found out that while I was chilling on the heights of South Sakhalin, they unsuccessfully tried to reach me so that I would hurry to come to them and signed the short-term contract. Naturally, I was out of touch, and thus lost an order for a considerable amount of money. It was a reason to be upset, but remembering that just before the departure to Mount Spamberg, about which I had firmly agreed with Maxim in advance, I had to refuse the customer who suddenly called, I realized that I was dealing with System (2), and calmed down ... This System is cleverly arranged: either you are spinning in it, receiving stable money, food and entertainment, and at the same time you are a dependent cog, an instrument and executor of someone else's will; or you are outside of it, but at the same time you lead a chaotic, unstable, but, most importantly, a free way of life, and your life is full of unpredictability, interesting people and beautiful landscapes. In general, the blind System wants one thing from you: that you sit still and wait from it for instructions, instructions and commands. The system is dumb, and there are ways to get around it. However, you have to sacrifice profit and comfort. Which is what I felt on my own experience.
If so, then to walk, so to walk: hastily packed up a backpack, at 14.20 o'clock left on a regular bus to the city of Aniva. Outside the city, a jeep stopped (after all, hitchhiking is a fun activity!), And driver Dima took me to the village of Taranay, along the way describing the advantages of kiting, which he became interested in. Behind the village, hitchhiking did not go well: no one picked it up. Thus, from Taranay itself to Cape Crillon, I walked on foot.
Having walked a couple of kilometers along the road, I decided to go to the seashore, because the road went further with hills. I walked south, contemplating the Krillon peninsula stretching far ahead and the illusory islets of the Tonino-Aniva peninsula, blue on the other side of the Aniva Bay. I also walked south along that strait coastline a month ago. The extreme points of Sakhalin, according to the Sakhalin scientist and traveler Andrei Klitin, attract us to themselves, as they once attracted ancient hunters striving to reach the ends of the earth. I caught myself thinking that I was going after happiness. How true this is, I find out at the end of the journey, but for now I feel earthly happiness to walk into the distance with a backpack on my back.
In general, the concept of the autonomous existence of a personality has long occupied me: a tent, a sleeping bag, a sleeping mat, a necessary supply of food, matches, a gas burner with a gas cylinder (a new item in my camping set; I bought it inexpensively at the Lyubitel store; in general in the indicated the store has everything for travel, I recommend it!), a headlamp, a change of clothes - all this allows free movement in space and weighs only 12 - 15 kg. Of course, such a way of life involves certain inconveniences and quickly becomes boring, but, nevertheless, romantics provide an opportunity to truly “take everything from life”.
Aniva Bay ... Beautiful, long-suffering, poisoned by RTGs (3) and other filth. Driving away these sad thoughts from myself, I try to think about the positive. Still, Sakhalin is a unique place: wherever you are, it will be different everywhere. Hills and tundra, taiga and mountains, bays and waterfalls - and all on one island!
I walk along the coast, past jeeps and cars, people having rest, fishing nets in the sea, children playing in the sand, running dogs, etc. The coast is littered. I hasten to pass the human vanity. They call me. A boy of about twenty-five or eight years old, kind of a collective farm, politely interested in my person. We talk. Politely admires my trip. Shakes hands goodbye. After walking a few hundred meters, I hear a shout: a fixed fisherman offers fish from an inflatable boat not far from the shore.
Is free! he adds.
I refuse with a smile, referring to the lack of space in my backpack.
Twilight gradually deepened. We need to set up camp. Pleased with the abundance of wood washed ashore. I stop at a full-flowing river, a little short of Kirillov. I'm pitching a tent, making a fire. On the side of the river is a fishing camp. From there, two bodies in orange fishing jackets are heading towards me. One of them, coming to the edge of the river water, shouts to me "Hey!" and waves his hand. I come up.
If I see that you are putting on a network ...! - a cheeky, thuggish threatening tirade is heard.
What makes you think that I will put the network ?! - I reply to him.
The middle-aged man is losing ground and adding notes of apology to his speech:
Sorry, of course, that in such a tone, but here recently two slept. In the morning I saw that the net was set up and two of them were caught. And here RUZ (4) is standing, waiting for the fish to enter.
I decide to change the subject:
Is the water in the river drinking?
And to the affirmative answer, I ask a new question:
Will you give me sugar tomorrow morning, or forgot to take it at home in a hurry?
The fisherman turned out to be reliable.
Another feature of this area that struck me was the presence of evil mosquitoes. A strange thing, in the taiga on the slopes of Mount Spamberg they were not, but here they are aggressively attacking! What an anomaly ?! It's autumn, it's already cold, it's time for them to go to bed. No, they are as active as in summer!
... And again experienced on the opposite bank of the Nevelskoy Strait, near the village of Lazarev, the feeling when, sitting in the evening at the tent, I looked longingly at my native Sakhalin coast and wondered if the sea would calm down tomorrow so that it would be possible to cross the strait. This feeling is a feeling of loneliness, abandonment and at the same time it is the realization that no one needs you, except for loved ones who are not around, but who love and wait for you.
From behind the mountains of the opposite bank, in the area of \u200b\u200bPrigorodnoye and Mount Juno, on the other side of the Aniva Bay, an orange defective moon swam. There is beauty all around: the lights of that coast, bright stars in the sky, the Milky Way ... Firewood is blazing merrily. The taiga firewood of the Spamberg Mountains did not really want to burn, but these directly enjoy life.
I hang up.
Day two: complete freedom, sea tides and an aura of legend around the Kartavy family
Ascent at 6.50. Very cold. From three o'clock in the morning I could not sleep: my body ached from the cold. At dawn, however, it became more fun in the sense that he contemplated the colors of life: mountains, a bay, the lights of ships and settlements, all this - in the rays of dawn. The firewood here is really blessed: it flashes in a swing, giving the joy of warmth
Crossing the river, I go out to the camp. Fishermen are sitting on the embankment, among them is my yesterday's interlocutor. As promised, he gave sugar, even more than half a kilo will definitely pull. The fishermen around me liven up: I have brought fresh air into their monotonous reality (to wait all day for fish to come!). As usual, they gave a bunch of advice on the road.
I walk along the coast lit by the morning sun. "Full freedom!" - sang, I remember, Romych Neumoyev from the Siberian "Instructions for survival". Here it is, complete freedom! For all that, this is not just aimless wandering around the world, but scientific travel. This definition was derived by the ideologist of the hitchhiker Anton Krotov. After all, traveling - whether on foot, hitchhiking, hydrostop, air stop, bicycle, kayak - is always the expansion of the horizons of knowledge. These are new lands, and new people, and new impressions, and most importantly, new knowledge. From this position, hitchhiking - and any journey - is good in the period from 18 to 30 years old. The basis in the head and soul is laid by the capital! And, of course, invaluable life experience.
I am approaching the liquidated village of Kirillovo. Until recently, there was a border outpost, a cordon that controlled the passage to the territory of the reserve (the Krillon peninsula is a reserve). In 2005 or 2006, it was disbanded, and jeeps and other ATVs poured here in a free stream, and now there is a passage yard.
I am met by a rusty all-terrain vehicle, or rather, its frame. Monument to the former might of the Soviet Army. The observation tower rises alone in the distance.
There is nothing to protect, Sakhalin is now a zone of free machinations of world bosses, covetous people and hucksters. What can you do, this is postmodern (5), an era when the world is ruled by petrodollar hucksters, teleclowns and opportunists. No state ideology; instead of love for the Motherland - cheap pseudo-patriotism and a desire to dump abroad, because it is more comfortable there. How many disbanded and plundered military units in Russia have I seen! It is not possible to pass calmly.
I wade the Uryum river. In general, the rivers on the east coast of Krillon are deep. More on this below.
I hit the camp. The dog barks. A tall man of about fifty with a beard comes out. I asked him for bread. He gave crackers - not bad either, even better: they will not grow moldy. My new friend's name is Vadim. He is from Krasnoyarsk. I came here in my car on the fishing line, but there were very few fish this year, and now he sadly estimates how much money he will need to return home. She misses, she says, for her little granddaughter. It turns out that Vadim is a truck driver, he has traveled all over the country! Look, even here, on the shores of a distant Russian island, far from federal highways, an eternal union-symbiosis-friendship of hitchhikers and truckers has found itself. At parting, Vadim and the dog accompanied me a little.
I am passing an interesting shore. Tall, it consists of petrified sand (as it seemed to me, although I am not a geologist). In one place, this slope "melted" out of itself the head of some mutant. Miracles, and more!
Here I arrange lunch: I heat canned barley porridge on a gas burner.
I go out to the Maksimovka river. There is a big camp here. A peasant came out, over fifty years old, in a leather jacket, decolonized (there are people whose elegance is maintained in any conditions). He introduced himself as Sasha. He guards the camp until spring. This has been the case for several years. He says he likes it here, and when he is at home, in Chekhov, he is drawn here. It's especially good here in winter, he adds.
Not far from him is another camp. His young boy is guarding. They visit each other.
And recently I go in the evening from him to my place. It is dark, a candle with a flashlight. I see the bear is following me, I both shouted and drove him away, and he kept following me all the way to the house, until he turned into the thicket.
Sasha gave me tea and fed me with huge, tasty pancakes made by him on the basis of coffee powder. Gave crackers, pancakes and mosquito ointment for the journey. In general, I once again concluded that they will not give you an abyss in our lost world: they will feed you, give them something to drink, and give everything on the road (6).
While we were having tea, Sasha said that this year there was no fishing season. Personally, he earned only ... 650 rubles (!) For the whole season at the fish factory in Aniva. I make an assumption to myself that one of the main reasons for the poor entry of fish is the blocking of Sakhalin rivers by RUZs in previous years.
Sasha accompanied me with a young playful cat Sima.
She, like a dog, walks along the coast with me.
The Ulyanovka river flows nearby. It was from this place that my incessant struggle with the elements and metaphysical adventures on this wayward peninsula began.
The river itself is not small, but then the sea tide began. Waves go straight into the river. I was poking my head around, and immediately realized that the depth was not childish. Slightly upstream - a Japanese bridge; I thought I'd go over it, but it turned out to be destroyed. I found a way out of the situation as follows: with the help of a pole, I groped for a scythe across the sea, where it was possible to go waist-deep in water, and, having loaded the bag (7) on my shoulders, crossed to the other side.
The sun, leaning towards the west, set over the high bank. The tide is pressing. I walk over the stones - a strip of small boulders has begun. Broken TV comes across.
Original: in remote places there is such an echo of civilization. And even with a broken screen. Apparently, the fishermen (or bears?) Were sitting watching and looking and, unable to endure the filth of what was happening on the screen, broke it with stones and went home. Imagination works well in such places. ABOUT! and here is the refrigerator. On the western coast of the Tonino-Aniva Peninsula a month ago I met them quite well; now look, and here they come across!
I walk to each new cape with a sinking heart: will something open behind it? ..
Ford again - the Kura river. I cross this river up to my neck in water with a bag on my head - it is so deep. However, this is a high tide, at low tide you can probably walk it up to the waist.
Came out on the spit. Three hundred meters away is a fishing camp. The boy who met me said that a little further - Uncle Sasha and Oleg Kartavykh. Kartavyh ?! Bah, familiar surname!
And now, having walked two kilometers - just beginning to get dark - I see: the camp is not a camp, but some kind of gazebos, houses, etc. At the mouth of the river (Kolkhoznaya river), in an artificial dam, there are sealed carcasses, which I did not like right away. There is a jeep nearby. Two came out to meet.
Heading south? Come and sleep. There you will reach the maximum to Medvedevka, and that's it. So you'd better spend the night with us, - a jaunty man tells me outright.
Yeah, here he is the son of a famous father. However, the presence of carcasses of seals does not allow me to completely trust these hospitable people:
I've seen seals butchered here, aren't you poachers?
The man's face changed slightly, but, looking into my eyes, he found a suitable and biting answer:
No, we only catch travelers, butcher and bury them. - And, seeing my equanimity, he added with pretentious passion, - what kind of poachers are we to you ?! The reserve is here, everything is legal. I myself would have shot these poachers. Come and spend the night with us. We'll have supper now.
Oleg Kartavykh - St. John's wort, as he introduced himself; the son of Fyodor Leontyevich Kartavykh - a famous hunting expert, senior huntsman Krillon, who at one time oversaw the peninsula. His grave is on the Naichi River. There, next to him, his wife is buried. I read about Fyodor Leontyevich in the story of a Sakhalin writer shortly before the campaign.
After Batey there was no one in his place. And when the outpost in Kirillovo was removed in 2006, anarchy set in on Krilion, Oleg stated the sad fact.
This frontier post, it seems, did not so much protect the frontier zone from spies, saboteurs and foreign invasions, as from our local barbarians.
Here is a border guard sitting, he sees you go: he wanted - let you in, did not want - he sent to FIG.
At dinner, Oleg told a lot of interesting things about his father. Fedor Leontyevich, it turns out, became famous for the fact that he eliminated a huge cannibal bear on the peninsula, which devoured its own kind. According to Oleg, who heard all this from his parent, this monstrous bear chose a place for himself where the river makes a turn: he lay over a three-meter cliff and just lay, waiting for a victim. He hears footsteps on the water and jumps in front of the stunned bear. Fills it up, hides the carcass and lies down further. He hears again the stamping on the water, jump - and there is no wandering relative.
And somehow this cannibal bear lies in its ambush, - says Oleg, - hears: steps. Jumping off a cliff, and in front of him is not a bear, but ... Fyodor Leontievich.
Oleg continues with a sense of natural pride in his father:
The gutted carcass of this giant weighed 520 kg! At VDNKh, his skull took first place. And when they wanted to send to Europe (European competition), there was a snag: our intelligence found out that the skull of the trophy bear Ceausescu (8) was smaller. It was decided not to humiliate Ceausescu - the trophy of some Fyodor Leontievich, you see, is more than Ceausescu's trophy! - and thus not to spoil relations with Romania, and the batin bear was not exhibited in Europe. This is all politics, so that it was empty!
Oleg's partner Sanya was sitting at the table next to me. We were treated to soup and pelengas.
Eat everything, we already ate during this time.
When the cannibal bear was overwhelmed, they found five or six of the bears he had killed buried in it, - Oleg boldly told, continuing the topic.
I don't like it when they boast, - he developed the idea, - that, they say, they killed a bear from three hundred meters, etc. They would try, like Fyodor Leontyevich, to deal with bears.
I thought even further: that our ancestors went to bear with a spear and often won in a fair fight. Now, however, hunting prowess is lowering its bar as small arms improve. Everything is relative.
And are you not afraid to walk alone among the bears like this? - St. John's wort looks at me with a small amount of irony.
But somehow there is no fear, it's a familiar thing, - I answer calmly.
A bear attacked you at least once. No? But I was attacked ... You would have spoken differently.
The bear seems to be a calm creature. I even heard that he is afraid of a person. You just need not to provoke him ...
Wielding a spoon, Oleg grinned, casting a glance at me:
And who knows what is on his mind. Here we are sitting here with you, eating, and you suddenly take a knife and chop us all. Who knows you ?! So is the bear.
Sitting in a gazebo against the backdrop of a twilight bay and distant high shores, we talked with Oleg for life.
You have to choose your wife so that she is eight years younger: that is, for example, you are forty years old, and she ... somewhere thirty-two. Well, so that she would have grabbed it in full in this life, would have burned herself from the men and would not twitch anymore.
I strongly disagree with these views of him.
However, giving advice about life is a thankless task, to each his own, - Oleg cheerfully summed up.
Having come to this general conclusion, we went to sleep in the deepening darkness.
Judging by the words of Oleg Kartavykh, from the barrier of the village of Kirillovo to his camp is 27 kilometers. Thus, in a day I made about 30 km.
Day three: hospitable fishing camps, Sakhalin jungle and Cape Anastasia
We woke up at seven in the morning from an assertive and loud voice:
Sanya! Get up!
It was Oleg who woke up his partner (I spent the night in Sanya's house).
Get up, get up! It is necessary to collect things.
Today they roll up and leave the camp. Until noon, when the tide begins, you have to have time to collect belongings and disassemble the houses and slip along the low tide to the north. The tide starts at twelve. We already know what tides are, especially at river mouths.
The sky was dark. However, the forecast promised just that: it would rain on Tuesday morning.
The motto of Fyodor Leontyevich Kartavykh was: "If you can't fulfill - don't promise, if you swing, hit it."
With such parting words, Oleg and Sanya took me on the road. At parting, Oleg gave me his mobile number.
I left at 8.30 am. It was dripping with rain. After a while, it began to drip more persistently, and a major rain began, soaking me to the skin overnight.
Soon the buildings appeared - it was me, having walked about 8 km, came to the banks of the Naychi River (this is where the grave of F.L. Kartavykh and his wife is located). On the northern bank of the river is the camp. As I was told the day before, a certain Petrovich lives here.
The camp is huge. I knock on the door. A chubby guy named Sergei came out. Petrovich himself was in the trailer. After a while, the three of us were already having breakfast. Petrovich is a bearded, hardened, strong internally elderly man who has lived in these parts since 1989. On east coast Crillon is known to everyone. In turn, he personally knew F.L. Kartavykh.
Treating me to smoked duck with rice, Petrovich told me how three years ago two Englishwomen spent the night in this camp, who were sailing to Japan by canoe. I recognized them at once: or rather, one of them was Sara Outen. She went around the world and across Sakhalin moved to Japan: just from Krillon to Wakkanai through the La Perouse Strait. I then worked in the authorities and dealt with this issue.
In the evening, I saw a kayak dock. Two girls got out of it and set up a tent on the shore, - Petrovich recollects, - I tell them: bears roam here, I don't go to the toilet without a gun ... In general, I invited them to spend the night inside.
According to Petrovich, there was a Japanese village with a school in this place. No wonder, under the Japanese, all of South Sakhalin was built up and populated. In the foothills of the Spamberg Mountain, we met many fields of considerable size - the Japanese mastered. They, the Japanese, are economic people.
After breakfast I crossed over to Naychi, flowing almost under the very windows of the dining room, in Petrovich's bogs, and leaving them under a snag on the other side, as agreed with Petrovich, walked on, looking with interest at the horse grazing in the distance. Horses on Sakhalin are bred quite actively. The horse is a noble and unpretentious creature and admirable.
After an almost 8-kilometer journey under the rain streams, I notice an Orthodox cross in the hills, crowning a chapel hidden in wet trees. I went to the Mogucha river, on the banks of which the next camp was located.
A cow and rams graze around. The dog is running. I notice a woman entering the house. I hurry after her, knock on the door. The door opens, and a woman of about fifty who has just entered, and a man of eastern nationality with a bandana on his head are looking at me. The phrase with which I was met spoke a lot:
You are my dear man!
It was Olga, the mistress of the house, who expressed sympathy for my soaked state. Alik immediately offered to change. After visiting the chapel on the hill, I ate three cups of hot borscht, listening to the story of these kind people. Olga is from the Altai Territory. Here for the fourth year she has been working as a cook. At home - a husband and five children. About two years ago I went to visit my family and since then I could not leave - there was still not enough money. Moreover, this year there was almost no fish. Alika was also leaving her life, and he has been here for the third year without getting out (!).
Here, in fact, is not only a camp, but also a recreation center. Every weekend during the warm season, parties are held here for wealthy people: discos, booze, etc.
Olga shows me on her digital camera photographs of their life here: fishing, livestock, working days. I remembered how in June of this year, when I was making my way along the road from Cape Pogibi to Goryachi Klyuchi, crossing Northern Sakhalin, in the hut of pipe-walkers in the deep taiga, the hospitable hostess of the house showed me photographs on her laptop at a meal. What a similar situation! Apparently, there is a whole type of such women in the classification table of Russian women.
I draw your attention to the presence of mosquitoes during this rather cold season for them. Alik says, citing the exact data of his observations, that they appeared on the coast on September 6, and Olga adds, explaining the reason for this, that the summer was dry, hot, up to 30 degrees in the shade, so the mosquitoes, supposedly, were waiting for a favorable time.
Having eaten borscht, drunk hot coffee and warmed up, despite Alik's insistent suggestions to stay overnight (although it's still a day outside), I move on. Having embraced goodbye with my benefactors, who accompanied me to the river, I wade through the still not filled with Mogucha tide.
I look with hope at the gloomy sky, from which the water is rapidly falling: as never before, a wet traveler wants the sun.
But still, our sun
Will appear salutary.
People are gloomy to wake up,
The forests will rise burned.
And myriads of stars
Over our heads
Dispell all doubts
And all fears will be driven away.
The most difficult stage of the journey lies ahead - the crossing over the Hirano rocks and Cape Konabeyevka. I was prepared mentally for the fact that it would be very difficult, but that it would be practically murderous, I did not even suspect. There is, of course, a passage through these rocky places from below, but from the recollections of travelers and the advice of experienced people heard, it turned out that the edge of the sea can only be walked light. My friend and partner in the hike to the Spamberg Mountain Maxim said that Cape Konabeyevka got its name because horses were crashing here.
With about 12 kg of belongings behind me, I decide to go on top.
I reach the skeleton of a small rusted ship indicated by Alik. There is a ravine, in which an old Japanese road is hiding, leading along the top, bypassing Konabeyevka. However, I decide first to reach the nearest rocky promontory and see with my own eyes what is behind it. After going over the huge stones for the first tens of meters, I climb the cape and see everywhere heaps of boulders and blade-like rocks. I understand that it is not worthwhile to meddle with a heavy summit. He's already pulling me down with his weight, he wouldn't fall ...
I change my shoes: sneakers, which are good only in the conditions of the seashore, I hide in my backpack and put on my sneakers and go into the ravine.
At first, the path seems to be visible, but soon it is lost in the thickets. With a wave of your hand - come what may! - I go straight up the hill. Bamboo, painfully familiar from the Spamberg Mountain, bristles with hostility. A week ago, he did not let us to its summit, but now he prevents us from bypassing Krillon!
I will finally blot it to the skin. There are birches and other deciduous trees and a few conifers all around. Clinging to trees, fighting bamboo. Nothing to lose - just go ahead! I suppress the animal fear of the unknown in these lonely places, watered by rain and surrounded by bears. Native Sakhalin cannot destroy, but the Lord will not betray. There is no going back. True, Alik and Olya are still nearby, and you can return at any time, but returning to them will be surrender. It's hard, but you have to go. I remember that Maxim said that in comparison with the Tonino-Anivsky peninsula, Krillon are children's toys. You're kidding, buddy, the hike to Cape Aniva was a fun promenade, but then what a deal - the struggle for every meter.
I break through to the ridge itself. Only the sea is visible. On the ridge, bamboo is shorter - it's easier to walk.
I walk along the ridge further south. I do not go - I am swimming, literally and figuratively. Directly - because everything is wet from the rain; in portable - because you have to work with your hands, as when swimming. I don't even remember the vaunted old Japanese road - it is clearly overgrown with giblets. I just go by intuition. From time to time, underfoot, you come across some kind of ditches cutting through the ridge. In places they are deep, and in order to overcome them, you have to go down in them. All this - bamboo, ditches, and rain - cannot but cause despondency and murmur. Although what to grumble about? On nature? Or on himself, who can't sit still? I would buy a ticket somewhere to Thailand and go to have fun on hot bourgeois beaches - and it would fit perfectly into the framework of the System, and the System would be happy with you. But no, you have to climb where you can easily disappear; in conditions where a person begins to be a person, where he does not live according to imposed patterns, but acts on the basis of the prevailing natural circumstances! Then why grumble ?! Only forward and with the song! Look at what beauties: below - rocks, to the west - mountain ridges. Why be discouraged ?! We should be glad that you take everything from life in the very real sense of this expression. There, just below Cape Konabeyevka appeared. Unearthly beauty!
I see the ridge is gradually starting to descend towards the coast. In a fit of joy, I decide to get off the ridge and start the descent early, and that was my big mistake. I "fall" to the left and work my way through the bamboo. And on the slopes, as we already know, it is much more violent than on the ridge. I make my way to the stream bed and freely walk down it in the hope that he will lead me to the seashore. However, the slope abruptly drops down, and, seeing the rustling sea far below, I understand that I am only above a high cliff. Hastened, oh, hastened with the descent!
With annoyance I climb the channel and take it to the left onto the slope of the spur, straight into the bamboo. The fact is that it is easier to go down a slope overgrown with bamboo or cedar elfin, since you go in the direction of its spread, that is, “along the wool,” according to A. Klitin; but you have to go up against the grain. Actually, I decided to bypass the Krillon peninsula from the side of Taranai precisely because, as Maxim mentioned, the bamboo on the ridge above Konabeyevka spreads in the direction of the south, which simplifies the course, because it is “on the wool”.
With difficulty I crossed the slope and began to descend along the spur. Vines are mixed with bamboo. They intertwine and cling to the backpack, or they simply appear across the path, and they can neither be stepped over nor broken. Moving forward is incredibly difficult, right up to nausea - this is from overwork. The situation is repeated nine years ago, when the mountain jungles of Laos did not let me back. Some beetles were added to the Lao lianas and other lush vegetation, which bit their hands, leaving an unfamiliar, twisting pain. Then I had no food or drink with me, and a deep river flowed below, less than a kilometer from me, and teased me with its freshness. And in the same way I made my way then through the jungle and went out to the rocky cliffs. But then I was light and somehow climbed down the rocky wall and trees.
The Sakhalin jungle is not inferior to the jungle of Indochina. On the slopes of Mount Spamberg, making my way through the bamboo, I expressed my wish to get hold of a machete, but Maxim said that in this case the machete would not help. Now I was again eager to hold the machete in my hand and hack my way to the sea. Chop everything around, in a big way! So this lush vegetation was exhausting. On the coast there will be salvation from this murderous beauty! There are stones and sand, there are streams and waves. There you can lie down and relax, here you have to be in constant tension, both physically and mentally. In order to move forward somehow, I do a desperate flip-jump forward and throw myself along with my backpack. And so - three times.
Again the stream bed and again it falls down the cliff.
Again I climb through the stubble of the Sakhalin jungle, again I cross the spur. And now, finally, the third stream, the channel of which leads to the sea!
Coming out to the coast, I look back at the arch of Cape Konabeyevka, left behind in the north, and look up. Indeed, a deadly beauty: you can stay there forever in these thickets, go crazy and surrender to the power of nature. But it is better to come out victorious and never be afraid of anything: not the elements, not bears, not dashing people.
Not without losses: a torn pocket on his pants and scratched hands. Then, in Laos, my pants turned into shorts, and my legs and back turned into stripped flesh. Still, native places are more indulgent.
The clock reads six in the evening.
... I go to Cape Anastasia. There was once the village of Atlasovo. Petrovich said that from there to them - to the camp on Naychi - some man walked through the thickets above Konabeyevka in two hours (!) To call for help: they had something stalled there. I only spent more than three hours on bypassing one Konabeyevka.
I pass a waterfall, a lighthouse on a hill, I reach Cape Anastasia. It is a sharp ledge in the sea and is crowned with two rocks: one is huge in the form, as it seemed to me, of a cylinder, the second is much thinner.
In the south, across the Morzh Bay, you can see Cape Krillon with buildings on it. A little higher - air defense balls (9). At the very Cape of Anastasia there is a camp, however, the fishermen have already taken off, and there is no one in the camp. Around the buildings. Infrastructure remained from the Japanese of the Karafuto era: a pier, vats for salting fish, etc.
It is getting dark. I cross the raging high water - the tide begins - the river Anastasia. Soak my clothes and backpack. I light a fire (sea firewood, even damp from the rain, burns well!), Hastily dry things, cook dinner and hang up. In a damp tent, I recall a day full of mystical adventures and murderous beauty.
I contemplate the distant lights of Cape Crillon and the blinking of its lighthouse: it cuts through with a rapid flash only the southern part of the night sky. Beautiful and monumental. The main thing is that the conditional closeness of people warms the soul. In addition, in Morzh Bay, about half the distance from me to Cape Crillon, a boat anchored for the night. To the cape - 12 -15 kilometers. I have to get there by lunch tomorrow.
Day four: Cape Krillon, Japan and the west coast
In the morning I woke up early: at six or half past six. However, drying the soaked clothes the night before took a long time, and I moved out only at half past ten.
In the process of drying my clothes, I regretfully discovered that Ryunosuke Akutagawa's little Japanese storybook got wet again and finally fell apart from the fact that I did not store it in a plastic bag on the way. The glued book was no longer subject to new repairs, and I decided to burn it. The worthy care of a travel book is to be honorably committed to the fire at the end of the world. The book of this great Japanese writer, which accompanied me during my travels around the country and across Sakhalin, triumphantly disappeared in the flames of a bonfire at Cape Anastasia.
Akutagawa's Tale on the Sheets
Scattered under the onslaught of rains.
And he only carried everything with a guitar,
And the picture changes every day.
I walk along the coast of the Morzh Bay. The sea is without waves, which is quite unusual. There are vodka bottles lying on the shore and there are all the same household items: a refrigerator and two TVs. In the distance, ships sail across the bay. There is a rumble over the water area. I even thought that this stinking RTG at the bottom of the sea was buzzing through the water column. After all, it was here, in Morges Bay, in 1987, according to eyewitnesses, that a helicopter dropped one of these infamous, death-emitting generators.
For a while I was accompanied by a curious seal, swimming parallel to my course, ten meters from the shore. I follow the huge fresh footprints of the clubfoot. The footprints turn to the right into the hills. And then they appear again - you see, the bear was not alone. Egorkino came to mind again (10):
Teddy bear
I walked through the forest, collected cones,
I immediately lost everything I found
Turned into a dummy
For someone there to remember
For someone there to look
For someone there to understand
I go around three rocky headlands. I come across a former all-terrain vehicle: only the chassis and pistons remain of it. The closeness of the military is already being felt.I pass the last rocky cape - Cape Kostroma, and go to the finish line - to Cape Krillon.
A dirt road torn up by the Ural leads from the coast to the hill where the buildings are located.
At about four o'clock in the afternoon I was already at the southern point of Sakhalin. In the distance, Japan, dear to my heart, was blue. To Wakkanai - about forty kilometers. Even some kind of tower can be seen there. To the southwest rises Mount Rishiri on the Japanese island of the same name.There is a frontier post on the cape, near which there is a helicopter, which flew back and forth a couple of times while I was walking along the coast of Morzh Bay; an ancient, but still active lighthouse, a weather station and a bunch of destroyed buildings.
The helicopter began to take off again.To my surprise, none of the military asked for my documents or even became interested in my person. Although the border zone ...
At the very edge of the cape, above the cliff, is the grave of Soviet soldiers who liberated South Sakhalin in August 1945. Every year, on May 9, jippers come here to lay wreaths.
Having rested on the cape, I walk along the way back towards the lighthouse. I ask the woman where the weather station is: I have business there. The weather station is located nearby, on the territory of the lighthouse, to which you need to climb a little.
Chickens are running around in the yard and a dog is torn apart. At the entrance, a pretty girl Olya, to whom I walked for more than a year, stands, smiling slightly, and looks at me with curiosity.
- Hello! Olya? Greetings from Egor from Tomsk.
At Yegor's, I fit in for the night in June last year while hitchhiking in Russia. Egor is a frostbitten hitchhiker, traveler and bicycle adventurer. Arriving a couple of years ago in Kholmsk by ferry and finding himself for the first time on Sakhalin, he immediately went to Krillon (after that he got right up to Okha). Here he met Olya, who came from her native Barnaul here, to the end of the world. Last year, in Tomsk, he told me about her and asked to say hello to her on occasion.
She remembered Egor, and offered me some tea, though only an hour later, when her shift was over. But I did not have time, and I had to bow. Whether I did it right or not to refuse, I don't know; or maybe it was worth sacrificing time and finding out what made this girl leave civilization and live at the end of the earth? ..
So someone there knows
It means that someone there believes.
So someone there remembers.
So someone loves there.
So someone is there ...
... I go north towards the house. I absorb delicious overripe rose hips. Mount Rishiri was transformed by the rays of the setting sun. In the northwest, the island of Moneron turned blue. The hills of the western Tatar coast of Krillon are devoid of taiga - the influence of violent winds affects. All this makes the local relief similar to Transbaikalia, with the only difference that impassable bamboo grows on the local hills, and soft fragrant herbs in the steppes of Transbaikalia. Another feature of the West Krillon coast is the lack of firewood. Don't light a normal fire. The shore is full of seaweed, into which you can fall ankle-deep.
Something like a monument turned white on the coastal hills. From a distance, and even against the background of bare relief, it resembles something Buryat in the Trans-Baikal steppes. A little further off, a concrete pipe rises right next to the forest. I climb up the military road into the hills and come up to the monument, made in a characteristic Japanese style. The grave of some noble samurai, no way? At the base there is a red plaque, on the sides of which there are two huge casings with red stars. On the plate there is an inscription that a soldier who was born in Armenia died here in 1990. Is this whole complex dedicated to the deceased? .. (11)
After a while, the massifs of the Zamirailov Golova and Kuznetsov capes appeared ahead.
At sunset, I came to the remains of the ship Liberty, which had run aground during an incredible storm in 1945. The ship fell apart into three unequal parts. At sunset, all this symbolizes the transience of human civilization and the eternity of the Sun, this center of the Divine universe. The colors of the evening sky were a soundless symphony, solemn and unearthly.
At 19.45 o'clock I noticed a place near the river, on the grass, where it was possible to set up camp. From the fire pit and the remnants of firewood, it was clear that someone had already been there. In the twilight, when I was setting up my tent, I heard the distant noise of a car, and soon near the camp, a fishing "Niva" stopped on the shore, from which two came out and began to lead a seine into the sea. I went up to them. Met: Dima and Andrey from the village of Pravda. Their camp was about five kilometers from me, where their comrades remained.
In the morning Dima and his father came for me and offered to give me a lift to Nevelsk. Moreover, it is difficult to walk along the coast to bypass Cape Kuznetsov, and it is dirty and dangerous along the bypass taiga road due to bears. It was inappropriate to refuse, and in three cars we headed north. I rode with Ivan and his hunting dog Peach (diminutive for Pers), who whined whenever he saw a duck fluttering out the window. Thank you, friends, for not leaving the traveler!
… We drove through Mount Kovrizhka. I had heard before that this mountain was used by the Ainu as an impregnable military fortress. There was once a war between the Nivkhs and the Ainu on the island, so this hypothesis cannot be discarded. Dima once climbed this mountain. The fact that there is a way to the mountain is evidenced by a rope hanging along the slope. With regret I gazed at the Gingerbread we were leaving. Apparently, next time I was destined to visit the top.
We got to Shebunino, and the asphalt started.
After the bombed-out Shebunino and Gornozavodsk, Nevelsk appeared to be a cool metropolis. They even have their own "Rublyovka": sophisticated cottages along the federal highway. “The system itself creates its own poles of negation” (Guy Debord). Civilization began, framed by colorful autumn hills.
And so ... the station - minibus - Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. Have arrived.
1. Mountain over 1000 meters above sea level.
2. System - a set of existential, technical and bureaucratic conditions, stereotypes and human factors, aimed at enslaving, corrupting and destroying the individual; in other words, a matrix.
3. RTG - radioisotope thermoelectric generator. The name speaks for itself - a battery based on the use of strontium-90; designed to power beacons. RTGs were actively produced during the Soviet years. After the expiration date, these radioactive batteries required careful and careful disposal, but in the 80s and 90s. their "disposal" was in full swing in the coastal waters of Sakhalin, the Kuril Islands and other regions of the Far East. Information about the flooded places (and there are about 40 of them) is carefully hidden, but stubborn seekers of their truth discover them from space and thrust facts under the nose of those who were involved in this so-called. “Recycling”. The latter, in turn, fearing responsibility and, as a consequence, deprivation of their high positions, are fiercely denied.
4. RUZ - fish counting barrage. Another sophisticated invention of modern Russian civilization aimed at robbing the people and barbaric destruction of nature. RUZom blocks the river and prevents salmon from spawning, citing the prevention of deaths. Fish caught in the net are seized and taken away by trucks in an unknown direction. Something is dull here.
5. Postmodernity - the modern era, characterized by the fact that in the first place are the mixing of styles, the combination of the unconnected, the service sector and all kinds of depravity; began at the end of the 20th century.
6. When I hitchhiked to a friend in Primorye this summer, we went to his friends - a strong peasant, such a kulak family. There, they gave me so many glass jars of jams, pickles, canned food, pasta, army dry rations, etc., that I needed a jeep or at least a cart for my further movement with all this food. Naturally, most of the received had to be left with a friend at home. XVIII - XIX centuries... It was also reported that in October 1930, the City Hall of the Year Honto (now Nevelsk) installed this Kajima Kinento monument at the site of the post in honor of the Japanese explorers Karafuto. In addition, according to local stories, a Soviet military unit was stationed nearby, the tanks of which are still hidden in the hills and are ready for military operations.
Cape Crillon is the southernmost part of the island. In my understanding, the end of the earth, although there is further than Hokkaido, the Kuril Islands, Sakhalin ends at Krillon.
Cape Crillon on the map.
12 thousand years ago, the islands of Sakhalin and Hokkaido were one and possibly connected to each other through Krillon. Now they are separated by 40 km of the La Perouse Strait, named after the brigadier of the French army, Count Jean François Halo de la La Perouse. La Perouse's expedition started from France, passed the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, reached the Korean Peninsula and reached Sakhalin along the Strait of Japan, climbed north along the Tatar Strait, then turned around, passed along the strait between Sakhalin and Hokkaido, through the Kuriles again entered the Pacific Ocean and died in the southwestern part of it. 
A lighthouse was built at Cape Crillon in 1883 for the safety of navigation. In 1896 a new lighthouse was built, equipped with a lighting fixture of the French company "Barbier et Bernad". 
About the most important thing. Where did the name "Crillon" come from? La Pérouse named the cape after Colonel-General of the French army Louis de Balbes de Burton de Crillon (Crillon), famous for his proverbial bravery (pends-toi, brave Crillon, on a vaincn sans toi). 
The white balls in the distance are an aircraft detection and guidance station, and radar station 39th radio technical regiment of air surveillance, warning and communications. The same can be seen in. 
Every year Sakhalin jeepers arrange a race to Krillon. 
A very interesting story from these places can be read at lastdjedai
.
