Rybachy Peninsula, which is located in Murmansk region Is a very interesting place. The Rybachy Peninsula will certainly appeal to those who love travel, nature trips and sea fishing. Photos from trips and travels to this unique place can be found on the Internet, as well as in travel magazines. There you can also find reviews of experienced amateur tourists. active rest and interesting photos amateur fishermen.
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You can get to the Rybachy Peninsula from Murmansk... The main thing is to think over the route of the trip in advance, because due to difficult weather conditions, the trip to Rybachy can be disrupted. To get to the Rybachiy Peninsula from Murmansk, you must have a map with you. The Rybachiy Peninsula in the Murmansk region is one of the most interesting places on the map of northern Russia.
Travel to the Rybachy Peninsula in the Murmansk region: why it is worth going there
Those who love outdoor activities do not have to leave Russia for this. Our country also has very interesting routes... In the north of Russia, beyond the Arctic Circle, is the city of Murmansk. This is one of the northernmost cities in Russia. From Murmansk you can easily get to the Rybachiy Peninsula.
There are several reasons where you should definitely visit Rybachy... These are the following reasons:
Those who are interested in Russian history and the military glory of Russia will certainly want to return to Rybachy again and again. Here you can still find shells and other artifacts that have survived since the Great Patriotic War. The heroic past of the Rybachy Peninsula is even sung in the famous Soviet song dedicated to parting with the Rocky Mountains. There are industrial enterprises, fisheries and reindeer farms.
Murmansk region Rybachiy peninsula: fishing for outdoor enthusiasts
This place has a "telling name": Rybachy. It is no coincidence that local residents dubbed this peninsula is just like that. The Rybachiy Peninsula provides everyone with a unique opportunity to have a great time on real sea fishing. You can fish both with a fishing rod and with a more modern spinning rod equipped with a variety of additional devices. They go to sea, as a rule, by boat or by boat. You can get on sea fishing in the following ways:
While fishing, you can easily catch a wide variety of sea fish, which a resident of the Russian central strip usually sees only in stores. It is good to catch both large cod and small capelin here. If you are very lucky, you can see real fur seals basking on the seashore.
On the territory of the peninsula there are a large number of private fisheries and tourist basesdesigned for fishing enthusiasts. Transport and fishing equipment can be rented at the hostel. Those who are afraid to go to the open sea for the first time without an accompanying person can take with them a competent instructor - a seasoned fisherman who will help to organize fishing correctly and get a good catch.
For fishing, you should choose calm, windless weather. It is dangerous to fish in a storm, therefore, if a tourist plans to go to Rybachy for the purpose of fishing, it is advisable to check the weather in advance.
While fishing, you can do unique photos... The northern sea waters are rich in fish, so even a beginner amateur angler will not be left without a solid catch. Everything you need for fishing (bait, clothing, accessories) can be purchased at local fishing shops... The best time for fishing is the short northern summer. Locals from time immemorial have been engaged in fishing, hence the "telling" name of the peninsula. Such fish as here cannot be caught anywhere else. Sea fishing in one of the coldest and northern places our country is an occupation for real men and passionate fishing enthusiasts.
Rybachy is located in the north of Russia, so the climate there is very specific. So, when going on a trip, you should definitely take warm clothes with you: a jacket, boots, a warm hat, waterproof clothing for sea fishing.
The Rybachy Peninsula is rich in mushrooms and berries. Passionate mushroom pickers should be aware that blood-sucking insects are raging in the local forests during the mushroom season, so you should definitely take protective equipment with you - insecticides and repellents. Those who go to the forest to “quietly hunt” should wear long-sleeved clothing so that arms and legs are reliably protected from bites.
Those, who go to Rybachy in summer, in the midst of local tourist seasonmust make a reservation in advance in a hotel or a hostel, otherwise free places may simply not be.
It is imperative to take your camera and video camera with you on your trip. On the territory of the peninsula, there are big problems with cellular communication... In order to talk on the phone with relatives or friends, you have to specifically look for a place where you can catch a mobile connection.
On the territory of the peninsula there are several nature reserves and national parks. During your stay in these places, you must strictly follow the rules of conduct that are mandatory for all visitors : do not make fires, do not leave debris behind, do not pick flowers or break tree branches. In case of violations of generally accepted rules, the offender risks paying a substantial fine.
There are places on the territory of the peninsula where any hunting and fishing is completely prohibited. Therefore, before planning these activities, it is necessary to check with local residentswhether the selected place is forbidden.
Those, who loves animals and is interested in agriculture, can visit the numerous reindeer farms scattered in abundance throughout the peninsula.
The Rybachiy Peninsula is a unique place in the north of Russia. At this place ancient history and a heroic military background. Those who have visited the Rybachy Peninsula at least once usually return there several times. The majestic northern nature makes people's hearts swoon with admiration. However, it is not recommended to travel to Rybachy with small children, because the weather on Rybachy is very harsh. - ideal for those who are interested in the nature of their native land and love extreme tourism... Rest here is inexpensive, but will be remembered for a long time.
The very edge of European Russia, the Rybachiy Peninsula, is an ambiguous and amazing place. It will not leave you indifferent: someone will conquer the rare beauty of many waterfalls, lakes, littoral and sand dunesSomeone will be surprised by the unique combination of dynamics and statics - the majestic calmness of the rocks and the continuous movement of the sea, while to some this land will seem harsh and inhospitable.
Several years ago, after almost half a century of "isolation" from the rest of the world, Rybachy became accessible to travelers again.
Just 100 kilometers from Murmansk, the magnificent and mysterious northern region begins.
Coast of the Rybachy Peninsula.
For a long time already civilization left these places and now everything here breathes history: mysterious stones standing from the time of fishing for Lapps, seids, mysterious stone guards, numerous batteries, fortified firing points and trenches - the echo of war, which is heard especially clearly on Rybach. Traveling to this legendary land allows you not only to touch the secrets of the past, but also to test the strength of technology and yourself. It will give you an incomparable pleasure of discovery.
On the roads of Rybachiy there are all kinds of people: a jeep from Krasnodar, a motorcyclist from Munich and a caravaner from Belarus. And this is not surprising, because Rybachy is not just a place on the map, it is a different life. Maybe that's why he so easily wins the hearts of those who crave adventure.
Rybachy Peninsula - geographic information
The Rybachiy Peninsula, the northernmost part of Russia, is located on the Lapland coast of the Arctic Ocean. Geographically, it belongs to the Murmansk region.
Not everyone knows that Rybachy actually consists of two peninsulas: Rybachy proper and Sredny. They are connected by a small isthmus about a kilometer long. And very often, if no special clarifications are required, the peninsula is called by one name - Rybachy.
Fragment physical map Kola Peninsula.
The Sredny peninsula is separated from the mainland by another isthmus, on the continental part of which the Musta-Tunturi ridge is located. The middle one is a plateau that drops abruptly into the Barents Sea. It is composed of limestone, sandstone and shale. The maximum height on the peninsula is 334 meters.
The length of Rybachiy from Cape Nemetsky to Cape Gorodets is about 60 km. The width of the largest southeastern part of the peninsula is 25 km.
The local shores are made of black slate rocks, above which, in the inner part of Rybachiy, hills and mountains covered with tundra vegetation are located. The highest of them is called Eina, its height is 299 m.
The waters of the Barents Sea washing the peninsulas do not freeze thanks to the North Cape Current all year round... There are a lot of fish in the coastal waters: capelin, cod, herring.
The northernmost part of the Rybachy Peninsula is Cape German.
The climate of the Rybachiy Peninsula is special due to its location practically in the middle of the Barents Sea. The weather on the peninsulas can seriously differ even from the villages of Pechenga or Zaozersk located near the sea. This is due to the nature of the Barents Sea and the fact that the peninsulas are separated from the mainland by the relatively high Musta-Tunturi ridge. The mountains may not let bad weather, but on the contrary, they can block the path of rain clouds that will hang over the Fishing months.
In summer, the sun hangs over the horizon all day and night, so the local seasons do not coincide too much with the generally accepted seasons. It's cold here all year round, even in summer average monthly temperatures do not rise to 20C, and at the same time the weather changes very sharply.
On the Rybachy peninsula in early summer. View of the Middle. On the horizon is the Musta-Tunturi ridge.
The best time for the rally is the second half of summer, when the peninsula is still warm by local standards. In June-July mosquitoes and midges are found on Rybach, in August they are gone.
Local roads are special too. It is not worth moving along them in an unprepared machine, especially without installed crankcase protection. It should be borne in mind that they were built a very long time ago, during the period when the peninsula was a closed zone, were operated mainly by the military, who have their own requirements for maneuverability. Recent years twenty, after most of the garrisons were closed, no one here was busy with the roads. The conclusion from all this suggests itself unambiguous.
On the other hand, with an experienced driver, Rybachy's extreme points were also reached by ordinary cars.
Brief historical outline
The first people came to these lands during the Mesolithic period, that is, about 10-12 thousand years ago. Their sites, characterized by a small area and a thin cultural layer, have survived. Scientists claim that this indicates that the first settlers to Rybachy were few in number and led an active lifestyle. They collected and hunted reindeer.
Archaeologists noticed an interesting detail: the settlement of the peninsula proceeded from two directions - south and northwest. They proved that for a long time Rybachy was inhabited by people from the Volga-Oka interfluve and from the territories of modern Finland, Norway and Karelia.
Later, the Sami or Lapps, a Finno-Ugric people who were engaged in deer breeding and fishing, lived on Rybach. The Pomors, the descendants of Novgorodians who once came to these regions rich in fish and furs, got along well with them. The Pomors were exclusively engaged in trade and "sea" business.
Waida lip today.
Since the beginning of the 16th century, active fishing has been carried out in these parts; there are 16 fishing camps, numbering 109 fishing huts. These encampments, which included Tsyp-Navolok, Vaida-guba, Zubovo and others, periodically fell into desolation and flourished.
In 1865, the Russian emperor invited Norwegian and Finnish colonists to these lands, who came here from Finnmarken and Varanger fiord. They, unlike most of the Pomors and Sami, who by that time appeared on Rybach only in the summer, began to settle in the harsh land.
After Finland gained independence, she was given western part peninsula. The border went along the isthmuses and cut the Sredny one almost in half.
Immediately after the Soviet-Finnish war in 1940, the separated territories were returned to the USSR. The new border between the countries was drawn by water to the west of the Sredny Peninsula.
Mass grave of Rybachy's defenders.
During the Patriotic War, fierce battles took place on Rybach and in its coastal waters. The peninsula became a key area of \u200b\u200bdefense on the way to Murmansk. Throughout the war, the Nazis failed to advance an inch in this direction, for which the die-hard Rybachy was named the Granite battleship. For almost four years the Nazis could not take the peninsula and break through to Murmansk.
After the end of hostilities, the peninsula is rapidly developing. The military plays a special role here, which is explained by the close proximity to the border of Norway, a NATO member. Several secret military facilities are stationed on the peninsula, so its territory was closed to any visit.
Despite this, work is underway at Rybach to restore and increase the reindeer herd destroyed during the war years. Geologists are also working here. In the 70s of the last century, the geological base of the Academy of Sciences was opened on the Middle. Its employees are engaged in unique studies of the earth's crust using magnetohydrodynamic (MHD) generators.
Unfortunately, since the mid-90s, life on the peninsulas has come to a standstill. Most of the military garrisons are disbanded or withdrawn, geologists and geophysicists are also curtailing their activities. Buildings and property remain abandoned. Since that time, the peninsula has been opened for visits by Russian citizens.
The history of the Rybachy peninsula is associated with many interesting facts, which can encourage the traveler to study the history of the region more deeply, and move away from the well-trodden routes.
Not far from Tsyp Navolok there is Mount Anikievka, on the slope of which is the grave of Anika the warrior. This rather unpleasant character distinguished himself by taking away from the fishermen who sailed to Tsyp-Navolok part of their catch. He said that he would stop extortion only when a man was found who would defeat him in a fair fight. This turned out to be Ambrose, a monk of the Pechenga monastery. They fought for a long time in a stone circle, in which later they buried Aniku the warrior killed in a duel.
The famous poem "The Son of an Artilleryman" was also born on Rybach. In the fall of 1941, Konstantin Simonov arrived on the peninsula. Among the stories about the battles for Musta-Tunturi, he was especially engrossed in the story of how the regiment commander sent his friend's son to adjust the artillery fire. The spotters were behind enemy lines and called fire on themselves. Simonov worked all night on the work, in the morning it was already ready and over time it became one of the best poems about the war.
Nikolai Bukin, the author of the words of the famous song “Farewell, rocky Mountains". A participant in the first battles for Rybachy, an artilleryman and correspondent for a front-line newspaper, he managed to find words that touched the soul of everyone, so many consider this song to be a folk song.
Another relic of those years is carefully kept on Rybach - the border sign, which remained on Musta-Tunturi, on the territory not captured by the enemy. Despite the fact that this was a section of the old border, the significance of this fact was enormous.
The history of the first Russian research vessel Perseus is also connected with the peninsula.
The ship, rebuilt from a whaler, embarks on its maiden voyage in 1922. Perseus took part in 99 expeditions, carried out scientific, commercial and hydrological research, his contribution to national science would be truly fundamental.
In July 1941, the legendary ship was sunk by fascist bombers in the Eina Bay of Motka Bay. At the same time, the skeleton of Perseus was covered with stones and turned into a pier. Thanks to this, fragments of a ship's hull set can still be found on the shore.
Historical landmarks
There are many seids on the peninsula. This is the name of boulders of various shapes and sizes that stand separately in an unstable position. Most often they are rounded, from 0.5 to 10 m long. Locals believe that the Sámi sorcerers - noids, when dying, turn into such stones, therefore, they consider them sacred. Scientists have proven that seids transmit energy, transferring it from stone to stone, and change the level of radiation above them.
It is worth noting that in our time almost any free-standing stone is taken as a seid. But most of them are products of the destruction of rocks, or even simply brought by the glacier. But it is better to look for real Saami seids with an experienced specialist.
Attractions map and memorable places Fisherman and Middle. From the book of M. G. Oreshets "Orphaned shores".
The northernmost hearth in our country was found in Zubovskaya Bay rock art... Local petroglyphs have one peculiarity: the image painted with ocher on the rock was later duplicated with some kind of sharp tool, scratched out on a hard surface.
Several sites of ancient people from the Paleolithic and Mesolithic times were also discovered on Rybach. They are located in the Zubovskaya Bay, on the Päiva and Maika rivers. There are "shaman circles" here, as the burials of people of the Stone Age are called, and the sacred stones of the Sami on the Middle, to which the ancients sacrificed.
On Anikiev Island (located opposite Tsyp-Navolok) you can see a unique stone chronicle. The slab is covered with carefully carved names of skippers who went to Murman for fish in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries. Here are the names of Dutch, German and Danish sailors. Russian merchants were also noted on the plate. The famous Rybachi ethnographer Mikhail Oreshet managed to find the earliest autograph of V. Malashov, who visited this region in 1630.
One of the pillboxes guarding the Rybachiy coast.
Most of Rybachiy's monuments belong to the period of the Great Patriotic War. They are scattered across the peninsula: preserved bunkers, fortifications, memorial signs and mass graves. There are a lot of them at Musta-Tunturi, where the bloodiest battles took place.
If you climb the ridge, you can see the German fortifications carved into the rocks, there are also memorial signs and many burials. At the foot of Musta-Tunturi there is a museum dedicated to the memory of Rybachy's defenders. It was created and preserved by Yuri Aleksandrovich Kobyakov, a former geophysicist who worked here. This museum also houses an unconquered border sign taken from Musta-Tunturi.
The abandoned position of the anti-aircraft missile battalion with the callsign "Lockout".
There are many other "monuments" on Rybach. These are abandoned military towns, which once housed military units. Skorbeevka, Ozerko, Chetverka, Lockout, Zubovka ... The list goes on. These villages were born with difficulty, they lived joyfully and brightly, they died absurdly and hard. Today it is a kind of museum of the frozen Soviet era, ghost villages lost in the tundra, which are occasionally visited by travelers.
Abandoned 152mm artillery battery.
Natural attractions of the peninsulas
The nature of the Rybachy Peninsula is unique and extraordinarily beautiful. It takes your breath away from the views. If you get out of the car and walk along the tundra, you will get a lot of pleasure: you can see everything kilometers ahead and you will find something interesting at every step. Either an exotic animal or a bird, or handsome reindeer, that rusty "echo of war". And how many berries and mushrooms! Blueberries, cloudberries, rosebush, white and even northern ginseng.
In the evening we were already there.
The Rybachiy and Sredny peninsulas have been a military specially protected area for decades. Then probably no one even dreamed of traveling through them. They knew that there, in the northernmost mainland of Russia, off the shores of the Arctic Ocean, there are peninsulas on which there are soldiers, missilemen and border guards, who are guarding from European enemies.
The first desire that immediately arose when setting up the tent was to preserve these flowers and grass. Do not trample them with your feet, let alone with your wheels.
They already got to be born in these harsh climatic conditions.
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In the 90s, Gorbachev made concessions to the civilized worlds and withdrew the military from the peninsula. Since then, the Russians have acquired another vast territory for travel, recreation and fishing.
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The military then left, but the territory was not transferred by status. The Rybachy and Sredniy peninsulas are hovering in the air without a definite belonging status. Military settlements were abandoned. Valuables were stolen by marauders, and time and the north winds picked up the baton.
Everywhere you look, there are remnants of military equipment, garbage from the military and from new travelers. From these objects only rushes with sadness and disappointment. I didn't want to take pictures.
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A wave of logs from some kind of structure were thrown out along the entire shores of Rybachiy Bay.
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When we drove to a store in Murmansk to buy tackle for sea fishing and, along the way, collected food, he noticed that the city had not yet had time to repair the city after the German bombings.
The road from Murmansk to the svorotok to the peninsulas took a couple of hours.
From the asphalt road leading to Norway after the checkpoint, after a few hundred meters, as we turned to the right, we immediately entered the USSR in 1943.
Although I was warned, I was still shocked by such hellish roads. It turns out that "German bombers bombed the roads pointwise."
100 km to the destination, we walked in 10 hours. Although our car is a real SUV, it was still hit by the bottom hundreds of times.
Given that such hellish roads were not only on our way, but in all directions. As in that fairy tale: if you go there, you will break the wheels, here you go - car leave.
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Only real extremists travel along these so-called roads, where there is danger at every meter.
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Rivers overcame, small surviving bridges, fords, puddles and mud alternated. Therefore, the peninsula is held in high esteem among travelers, jeepers, fishermen, squares, snowmobilers.
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Here and there broken cars on the road ...
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Nature, with its, at first glance, scarcity, did not allow looking away from itself. It is a pity that we didn’t succeed in taking pictures, we stopped a couple of times. There was no time for that.
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In a couple of places on our way, there were some stencils that did not deserve respect, that this territory seemed to natural Park... So, somewhere there are offices, employees who receive salaries.
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What are they doing, maybe they have built a gazebo, and that is unlikely.
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At the next monument.
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Thousands of soldiers died on the peninsulas. Many monuments. Some of them are in good condition.
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Abandoned monuments are plentiful in peninsulas like this one.
A closer look shows a dozen gravestones overgrown with grass.
And in the cities, we celebrate Victory Day pompously and arrange an immortal regiment.
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In fact, it is not surprising that the monuments are abandoned. If at the very city of the hero of Murmansk, the monuments are being destroyed and there is no one to repair them, then one should not expect a better attitude towards them in the distance.
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There is no one to take permits to fish. So, at least as much as you can catch, at least in tons of fish, crabs, shrimps, harvest.
Perhaps we were in the status of a poacher once we fished without a license.
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There was a sea of \u200b\u200bfish in the sea ..))
Different fish at a depth seemed to be waiting for a spoon to be immediately attacked and to catch on a hook.
There were also strangers, like this seemingly terrible fish.
We let her go back to sea just in case. Then they learned that the delicacy is the rarest.
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We got such freaks from the depths of the sea
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The fish was caught so well that from the very first day the question arose "where to put it?"
The most cunning fishermen from the team on the very first day went to sea in a hurry and from the heart fished as many as two boxes of different fish. So on the second, third day fishing was taboo. Do not throw it away?
Then they caught as much as they could eat. And they caught fish selectively, which they did not eat yesterday.
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Fried flounder fish, oh what a delicious taste!
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They cooked food on gas. By the way, there are no trees as such on Rybachye. Some small handicraft, from which a full-fledged fire cannot be made.
Semeshkin Anatoly Konstantinovich at the workplace.
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Keith liked our presence on the shore and every day he approached us a hundred meters and defiantly blew out boiling water from himself through the pipes. Give him a hole and water seeped out.
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We wanted to catch a whale for dinner. They consulted and consulted and decided not to.
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Shashlik from some large fish and Armenian vodka went well.
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A group of fishermen from Arkhangelsk, in two cars and with trailers, specialized in crabs. They had conditions for storing fish. Therefore, they boldly caught both fish and crabs.
Moreover, they knew where and how to set the nets and traps.
I even helped them for a minute to release the crab from the net. But he ate as much as he could. Before that, I only knew the taste of crab from those sticks that are sold in stores. Deliciously unbelievable.
It turns out that there are too many crabs in these parts. Once they were brought from Kamchatka to breed, so much was divorced that either through the bay, or through the isthmus, they crossed into the waters of Norway.
The paradox is that the Norwegians industrially catch crabs and sell them in bulk, including to Russia.
And in Russia, mafiosi are responsible officials, even amateur fishing is not allowed. Although unofficially, but quite legally, crabs are sold in Murmansk at every corner, wholesale and retail, and in any form.
Our team did not know how and did not catch crabs. But, they ate when the Arkhangelsk peasants treated us, and they always treated us.
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The crab, which I lowered to the ground, turned out to be warlike and attacked me and wanted to eat me. But I managed to get away ..
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It turns out that crabs should be boiled in sea water to keep them longer.
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When on way back at the airport I saw what they were selling crabs for and counted how many rubles I ate in those 10 days, then I already felt sick. It was possible to buy a supported inamark for this money.
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Although the Arkhangelsk people showed us a way to fish for crabs, but for us Uralians it was not a feasible dream. Bring such things with you, etc.
By the way, sometimes, but very rarely, and only when good people come to Rybachiy, then the peninsula is warm, and such that you can sunbathe and dive into the sea. What we did.
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It was so hot that they only cooled with watermelons. Like this watermelon eater.
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They swam in the northernmost mainland of Russia off the coast of the Arctic Ocean. Since there were no women within a radius of one hundred kilometers, they swam without swimsuits.
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The sea water was very clear! All the fish in it off the coast were visible despite the fact that fish and crabs relieve themselves here, not counting the whale.
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On Rybachye, the weather is extremely changeable. The way it should be in the northern part of Russia, it is windy, cold, rains with snow, then the sun with squall wind and rain.
What we have felt for ourselves. A squall wind instantly tore off the fishermen's tent, though I don't remember where they came from to drink vodka on the peninsula.
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It turned out that the sea here flows in and out again every day at the same time, no matter what the weather is outside.
A wave from the sea immediately flooded the rubber boats. Then a lot of people could not drag them to the shore.
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In the photo is the caretaker of the Izhevsk group. The most cruel man. He always looked into the distance and commanded: "Take a ton of fish here, take a ton of crabs there! .."
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For the slightest disobedience, he almost tore my friend to pieces.
Just kidding, staged shots. Kindest man
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Some Izhevsk guys picked cloudberries and cooked jam in the camp. What can you say, well done, prudently brought sugar and dishes with them.
And the cloudberries were very tasty and sweet with sourness.
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I wonder how all this junk in the photo fit in one car, as well as four healthy men and another nasty dog. Otherwise, it is expensive for everyone to go so far in their own car. And ditch the car on these roads.
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The only houses on the peninsula built for tourists in the last 20 years. The toilet is outside. To wash in the sea .. Conditions are slightly better than in a tent.
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But in his tent, although the mess is constant all the time, it is cozy and warm ...
Because its own !!!
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The peninsulas for the USSR during the war with the Germans were important in defense. Then the defense of Rybachy, Sredny was built in such a way as to repel attacks from the sea. From the shores, our troops controlled the movements of the German fleet in the Barents Sea and did not allow them to reach Murmansk.
And now, various kinds of structures were visible at every meter, if you look closely.
Non-exploded anti-submarine boats bombing on the shores of the Barents Sea.
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Classic technical solution.
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It is not clear the purpose of this 4-5 cm thick nail punched into a stone. Probably from the days of the Vikings.
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It is for this reason that the peninsulas have truly become a historical museum territory.
On the road to Zubovka, the most continental northern edge of Russia, on the side of the roads, our "guide" showed rock paintings of the Stone Age.
Who in those centuries painted in these harsh lands, Finns, Russians or Norwegians, did not understand.
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The Vikings (Norwegians) used to live on the peninsulas, and they left their cultural mark, in the form of the ruins of trading posts, mounds of graves.
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Our military left a fresh and fatly uncivilized mark in the form of destroyed structures.
The Norwegians at home, even farther north than the peninsula, have created paradise conditions for life. We have become one of the lucky ones in the world.
In the meantime, there are only frightening ruins around on the peninsulas.
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But on the coast here and there submarines ...
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He left Rybachy with complete frustration, but with the intentions to return here again.
I would like to return, but not in a jeep with a trailer. Stay in a cozy hotel, catch fish without fear of being a poacher, eat crabs, travel around the peninsula, go into your room in the evening, look out of your window at the cold winds, wrap yourself in a blanket and sleep until dawn.
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Can the Vikings or Finns lease the peninsulas? And for us, on account of offset, to come for a couple of weeks to relax like a human being for free?
There will surely be inaccuracies in the story, so correct it.
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To see Rybachy and not die ... with delight, well, at least try. These words very accurately reflect the emotions from visiting the northernmost European part of Russia. It feels like moving around the peninsula, you pass through several countries: there are mountains, and the sea, and waterfalls, and lakes, and even different seasons.
As one member of the "Opening the Silver Necklace" expedition said: "This is the coolest thing I've seen in my life!"
Until recently, the peninsula was a closed territory, so you can only get here by car.
The Rybachiy Peninsula is located on the Lapland coast of the Arctic Ocean. Between the mainland and the Rybachy peninsula is the Sredny peninsula. Many consider these peninsulas to be a single peninsula and call them one name - Rybachy. There are only four bases in this vast territory where a traveler can stop.
We got to know Rybachy with the help of mega hospitable guys from the base "Cool North"... We were late for a trip around the peninsula on ATVs - the weather did not allow anymore, so we mastered the territory on a GAZ-66, among the people - shishiga.
Here she is a fire-machine - Shishiga, which passes such roads, mountains and fords that one can only wonder.
After the Second World War, mainly military and geologists lived on the peninsula. In the 90s Rybachy was practically deserted, so roads and bridges in many places are in such a state that overcoming them becomes a quest. But Shishiga coped with everything and the members of the expedition are now happily sitting in their homes on the mainland.
During two days of travel across the peninsula, we saw 2 people and one car.
Barencevo sea. After 2200 km from here is the North Pole.
Despite its northern position, the Rybachy Peninsula is the warmest place in the Murmansk region and the entire Russian north. Off the coast of the peninsula, the sea does not freeze all year round.
White lambs do not let go of the waves of the Barents Sea, I do not want to leave. The sea, although cold, is so attractive in the sun. But our guide urges us on: "You haven't seen so much yet !!!"
After the lowland waterfalls of Karelia and the mainland Murmansk region, the Rybachy waterfalls amaze with their height and power.
One coast, and the weather is changing at a cosmic speed.
At the entrance to Cape Kekursky, the clouds scattered and the sun came out.
Probably the most picturesque rocks of the peninsula are located on the cape. At once bagpipes sounded in my ears, and a Scottish cage flashed in my eyes, like in the TV series "Highlander", which I saw to the holes in adolescence :)
Near the Kekursky cape there is Guba-Vaida, as the guides and books tell, there was the Kegor bargaining site, where the British, Danes and Dutch sailed to sell their goods. From here these goods were already going to Arkhangelsk and Moscow.
Mount Motka met with snow and fog, because of which we could not see anything. Although we were told that the views here are more beautiful than from Cape Kekursky.
During the war, a divisional command post was located on this mountain. In general, we were warned that we must definitely look at our feet, because on Rybach you can still find "echoes of war".
Bloggers are bloggers. There are no species, but there is Internet from Megafon. I had to stay here and disrupt the peninsular Internet detox program.
If you love abandoned buildings, then you have something to see here. The Bolshoye Ozerko garrison was disbanded in 1987, and by the 90s everyone left the village.
The village had a hospital, a school, a canteen, a diesel station and even a museum.
In the 60s and 70s, the first five-storey house on the peninsulas with all utilities appeared.
When you walk around someone else's apartment, you see that there is a stove in every kitchen, you realize what incredible work it took to build all this on the peninsula and how hard it was for people to arrange their life.
It is a pity that all efforts have gone to waste and no one else needs it.
We are going to the next waterfall.
Photos do not convey all the beauty and power of Rybachy's nature. You look at the camera screen and everything seems flat, small. I would like to ask for a camera and only absorb everything that you see around.
Want to see the mushrooms that are higher than the trees? Here they are - aspen mushrooms.
And there is no way to stop the desire to tell the world about what he saw, and right away. All the same Megafon periodically gave us this opportunity.
Surely listening to something on Storitel about the origin of the Northern Sea Route :)
On the roads there are barrels filled with stones with a sticking pole - landmarks. We were told that this also remained from the military.
Cape German, next to it is the village of Vaida-Guba, which houses a meteorological station and a lighthouse. As the northernmost point of the European part of Russia, the cape attracts thousands of tourists.
Alas, there was quite a lot of plastic on the shore (Greta, you were right) and the remains of a whale that was thrown out 3 years ago. There are also many cairns here. It is believed that when building a pyramid, one makes a wish and the stronger and larger the structure, the more likely it is that dreams will come true.
Well, here we are at the End of the Earth!
It consists of two parts, the Rybachy Peninsula proper and the Middle Peninsula. They are connected by an isthmus, which is about 1 km long. These peninsulas are connected to the mainland by another isthmus, which is about 2 km long. The length of the Rybachy Peninsula from Cape Gordeev to Cape Nemetsky is about 60 km, the width at the northwestern end reaches up to 10 km, and in the southeastern end up to 25 km.
The shores of the peninsula are composed of black shale rocks, above which, inside the peninsula, there are low hills and mountains covered, and partly with grass. On the banks of the rivers and in the valleys between the hills are partly, partly dry with good grass. There are also small copses of birch, willow and other shrubs.
There are many lakes in the northern part of the peninsula. Of the latter, the most significant is Lake Bezymyannoe, which is up to 10 kilometers long and up to 1 kilometer wide. The Mainvolok river flows out of it, the length of which is up to 10 km. Other rivers on the Rybachy Peninsula include the rivers Zubova (about 13 km long), Olenka (about 12 km), the source of Lake Olenka and other water bodies.
The peninsula has a large number of different bays and bays. Although few of them can serve as reliable shelters for ships. Starting from the south-west, there are bays: Malaya Volokovaya, Bolshaya Volokovaya, on the north-western coast - Vaida Bay. In the northeastern part of the peninsula there are bays: Skarbeeva, Zubova, Mainavolotskaya, on east coast lips: Tsyp-Navolok, Korabelnaya, Anikieva and Sergeeva.
On south bank The vast Mitavsky Bay with the lips of Eina, Mocha, Motka and Novozemelskaya harbor is located on the Rybachy Peninsula; on the south-western coast there is Kutovaya Bay. The most famous of the capes are: Cape Gordeev, located on the southeastern tip of the peninsula, capes Sharapov, Bashenka and Sergeev, located on the eastern coast. In the northeastern part of the peninsula there are capes Tsyp-Navolok and Lavysh, Lok, Lazar, Mainvolok, Skorbeev; in the northwestern region - Kekur and Nemetsky capes; on the western part of the peninsula there is Zemlyanoy Cape and some others.
The highest points of the peninsula are located on the capes: Gordeev, Kekur and Gremyashchinskaya buttermilk (its height reaches about 1450 m above sea level). Other capes have a height of 900 to 1800 m. The north-eastern coast of the peninsula is low-lying. The northwestern coast is elevated and in some places reaches 6000 m. Beyond the Bolshaya Volokovaya Bay, the shores again become sloping. The middle peninsula approaches the fiord with tundra shoals.
The fishing peninsula was formerly inhabited by the Lapps (the population of the Finnish tribe). Since 1865, colonies of free migrants began to settle here, mainly Finns and from the western coast of Varangerfjord and the Norwegian Finnmarken. These peoples passed into Russian citizenship, but economically they gravitated towards their former homeland. Rybatsky and Sredny peninsulas made up the Rybachye rural society. Lopari almost all migrated from the peninsula to the mainland. Russians (up to 600 people) came here only in the summer, for fishing, in some fishing camps, for example: Vayda-gubu, Zubovo and Tsyp-Navolok.
Then both the Norwegian and Finnish colonies settled well. Many of them flourished thanks to fishing, cattle breeding, trade and other trades. There were about 9 colonies on the Rybachiy Peninsula in total. They had about 500 inhabitants. On the Rybachy Peninsula, in the colony of Vaida-Guba, which is considered one of the main places in Murmansk for the abundance of cod fishing, from 400 to 500 thousand kg were caught per year. The colonists had up to 100 fishing vessels, on which they catch up to 1,130 thousand kg of sea fish and up to 80 thousand kg of fish oil. On the same ships they carried out trade with the Norwegian towns of Varangerfjord.
In the second half of the 19th century, the famous thinker Nikolai Fedorovich (he was Tsiolkovsky's teacher) proposed to establish the capitals of Russia on the territory of the Rybachy Peninsula. After the revolution at the beginning of the 20th century, the territories of the western zone of the Rybachy Peninsula and the Middle Peninsula began to belong. In 1940, after the Soviet-Finnish war, these territories were returned to our country again.
On the territory of the Rybachy Peninsula there are deposits of hydrocarbon, oil, etc. In the 70s of the last century, searches were carried out here, but as a result of insufficient research, these searches were unsuccessful. In 1994, seismic surveys were made on the peninsula, which revealed oil deposits. The oil deposits are located from the peninsula to the sea. The expanses of Rybachy and Srednee are used for grazing reindeer.
A feature of the waters washed by the coast of the Rybachy Peninsula is that they do not freeze even in winter. The rise in water here is influenced by the North Cape. At present, following the results of the expedition of scientists to the territory of the Fishing Peninsula, it was decided to establish protected areas here in order to preserve the fauna of these places.
